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Glad to see things are still cooking on the ultimate DIY DTG. Just a thought. If the platen bed is aligned manually with an alignment mark as yours currently does I would think not much problem in backlash, as long as the same method of setting the mark, i.e. the tension on the bed is the same when set. However if sensors are used and the bed would auto set itself and then auto reset for second pass I can see a backlash error happening. I have a TJet 3 in pieces now, just for the heck of it. It uses a screw drive but seems to have registration problems. I am convinced that a great deal of these problems are due to incorrect setting, adjustment of the backlash nut on the drive. I know yours (German 13) is a manual reset which I have on my DIY and it is very accurate. Just a thought.
 
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Ok but the 4 channel white is a plus the 1900 at 90% output is better than the 2200 at 100%.
 

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Is it difficult to push back everytime? My 2200 pushes back easy sometimes and sometimes it is more difficult. Thats with a belt drive. So it the motor for me not the drive system. Any backlash issues?
 

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Corel draw or photo. Should open straight up in corel photo. In draw u may need to file new then import. Then go into photo open channels delete everything except rgb channels then delete background layer. Save as. Or edit copy visible call me if u need to.
 

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Just kind of a general comment on the awesome job that jeff is doing here. A lot of people get wrapped up in making the printer look good with covers etc. The reality of it is that if the machine is not built with easy to remove covers / sections you will take them off anyway for ease of cleaning and maintenance. So Remember where your bulk ink system is going to go, eventually, left or right. Make the cover very very easy to remove or don't bother. Also the cover can induce problems as the mist of ink from printing will get on the shirt / most important the encoder strip and other parts and drip or generaly make a mess.
Leaving this open helps a lot. Also fans, some commercial units come with fans but beware that even a room fan can cause problems with print quality or cause mist to gunk up the encoder.
Happy Building
 

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I know Jeff has talked about EK RIP alot. I got a hold of a trail copy. The first print out of the chute was awesome. The ability to manipulate the droplett size made a lot of difference. The colors were right on and awesome. So much of what we do in the DTG world is dependent on the art work and the ability to manipulate the art for the DTG Inks.This print was at ink level 4 of 6, Super Fine which is 1440x1440. Color Mode Vivid. I was very impressed for a first run. Shirt was a Gildan 2000 sprayed with pretreat for light shirts.
 

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Well still testing evaluating EK RIP, it is easy to use, the ink controls are awesome allowing a machine that normally needed 2 passes on a white shirt to easily do it in one pass. This is a big plus. The Gap and Feed adjustment are a must for DIY running on the epson board with no modifications to the EPROM.. That is the way to go, Keep it Simple. It has good white control. The color managment was easy as in there is none it runs on a fixed Adobe RGB Profile, when I say fixed I mean you cannot select a different profile, you can however work with adjustment curves a few other items.
The white generation is easy, it has several modes that include a preview of the white, easily selectable and you can view the changes in most cases. Also has highlight control and white added to cmyk colors.
Importing files such as a self made underbase in photoshop is not possible. This program has a lot of bells and whistles, great color ouput, great bed control. Excellent Support, Easy to use and understand.
This is an excellent choice of RIP for the DIY or even someone not happy with there current RIP. Now if MultiRip GP would add the droplet control and bed feed and gap where could have a big fight. MRGP is superior for the advanced user except in those areas. And these are big areas for a lot of people. Most people just think their machine cannot put out that amount of ink and those colors, or get rid of the banding EK does it well. Also a lot of maintenance functions such as timed cleaning, nozzle check, waste ink pad reset, ink charge / prime, channel flush and head clean are all in the RIP. No need for additional
programs. You need to look at this one.
 

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I want a package too. Hey Jeff if all the things Dan said dont work you may have to hit ink button on control panel. Carriage moves to cart change position. Unsnap cart wait a few sec reseat cart then hit ink button again it should go back doing what it was. Holding ink button down will usually generate a mini clean on head.
 
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I was just in Chicago on business and had some time so I called Jeff and he was kind enough to give me the tour of his latest build. (no I did not get photos) I have a DIY 2200 built from a kit with reprogrammed chipset, so I have seen and used these before. Jeff has really raised the bar on the DIY DTG to a new level. First I was impressed with the simplicity of the design. All Epson parts. While he did his with Poly and aluminum it would be easy, actually easier for the average joe to do it with wood. No magic chips or micro controllers involved. The printer ran fast quiet and put out a great print on a white shirt. Sometimes the white shirt is more difficult because it requires a great deal of CMYK Ink due to absorbtion by the textile.
So I would expect the white ink not to be an issue, other than it's usually problems with maintenance and head cloggs. The 1900 does have teflon coated head so that might help. A good RIP is very important and with this build only using epson parts and original firmware a modified RIP is required to get the great results he is getting. EK RIP has incorporated these adjustments into a R1900 version. I believe that the keys to success here is the KISS principle. Use unmodified epson board, no firmware changes, no micro controller, a RIP that will allow ink droplett, feed and gap control for each individuals build, a understanding spouse, Jeff you are a lucky man there, and a lowes credit card. Anyway the end results are as good as I have seen from any printer. It does have a manual reset, vs a push button reset. But really push a button or push a finger on the platen, how much is that worth? Awesome Job thanks for your time Jeff, wish I had more time to spend. PS put a good bulk system on it and let it rock!!!!
 

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My question - you do not have to pretreat white garment, but you do need to pretreat black garment is this correct?
Yes that is correct. However there is a pretreat for white shirts that enhances the color and washability of the shirt. There is also a pretreat for light colored shirts that require white ink. The white ink always requires a pretreat to stick to the shirt.
 
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Well you already have the dtg. So add a 4 color screen unit and you have it covered.
If you have a lot of colors use the dtg. I just finished an install of a kiosk 2. For a screen printing company.
To handle short runs and high detail zillion color jobs. Grass is always greener.....
Problem is the dtg still needs to run almost everyday. Just like children you have to feed them, clean them, and play with them.
 

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randy will be documenting the build!!! what ever it doesnt cover i will explain!!:)

its a simple build with very few mods..asf which is already here on the forums and a few wiring extentions (no flat wire extentions)

good luck
Hello! I am in the room, I can hear what you are saying!:D
 
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Here is a photo of an eco solvent print on a t shirt. I took a t shirt and cut a piece off of it and glued it with spray adhesive to a piece of vinyl and loaded it in my roland versa camm, used and ICC profile for solvent canvas and printed, it's still in the machine. There are some artifacts in the art work at the bottom of the wings just due to bad art. No bleeding, a little light due to ICC profile. No heat applied. No pretreat used. Pic could be better, sorry I-Phone pic.
 

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