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Great job, German! Man, I'm struggling to keep up with you guys. German, did you mention that EK rip somehow allows the user to adjust according to the pulleys he or she may be using? I may just have to wait and see how your designs turn out and then beg for the plans... I'm afraid I'm having trouble following all the belt and pulley technical jargons.:)
 

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well the cool news is these self closing percision sliders work like a dream...;) its like you pushed a button and it returns it to the start position.. just awesome... it is using a ???? so that it will not turn the drive or a belt in reverse (returning the platen) just like a free wheel bike!!! this thing works like a commercial printer with these self closers- complete mechanical conversions and no electronics to fuss with..lol AND GET THIS TWO MOVING PARTS OUTSIDE OF ORIGINAL PRINTER DESIGN...IT IS DIRECT DRIVE. NO BELTS TENTIONERS ETC..100% TOOTH TO TOOTH ACCURACY. testing is never a pretty picture but it gets the job done.. additionally i had to have some alterations to the rip- in roll mode the print stops and doesnt eject the platen out to clear the printer.. with a removable platen this is no issue but once you go to a fixed base or platen this becomes one..ek rips largest platen is 19" so you need approx three or more inches to clear the printer for shirt loading they took care of this as usual (ie your 19 platen or print area needs to be approx 22, so it will eject like it does in sheet mode..;)) there are a couple options with the platen itself also, you can still make the platen removable from the base or drive unit if you want..sorta like ONE commercial printer that i just love, or you can simply have a fixed platen.. i beleive i will keep it fixed unless i see a major time increase with it removable.
That just sounds absolutely remarkable! I can't wait to see a video.
 

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Jeff, I just saw your black t-shirt video on Youtube... Absolutely amazing! I'm currently in the process of drawing up my own plans, I would like you to have a look at them first before I actually build though. Congratulations again on breaking the diy dtg code!!
 

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Hey guys, I'm sorry this is kinda off subject and I don't post very often...

German, I just saw your new video- great job as usual!! Did I hear that you were going to have 'how-to' videos for this one? The reason why I ask is because I actually have my plans and the parts for a belt-driven dtg (using timing pulley). So I guess I've been holding back for the newer/better model to come along.

I'm glad things are going well.:)
 

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Jeff, I just saw the PE replacement video. Very interesting! My V2 build is still in limbo and I guess I'm still contemplating how to set up the PE sensor- but maybe that AGP replacement is the ticket. Thanks.
 

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German, thanks for pics. I don't know if I would agree about the "self-explanatory" thing as I still have many questions (way too many). But my engineering skills are far less superior to anyone else here. Anyhow, I have my disassembled 1900, my cut plastics and welder- I'm currently trying to decide if I should try to imitate your V2 or the V3. I like the idea of not cutting the drive rod in the V3... But I'm still trying to figure out the placement of the PE.

Well, many happy returns!!
 

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Hello. I'm working on a friction-drive, R1900 with drawer slides. I was hoping to get some advice from anyone here: how do I make the drawer slides adjustable? So they can be moved up or down?

I was thinking of using wingnuts in the four corners and just lowering or raising each corner by hand while making sure the drawer is level- but that may be a lot of work and could cause problems...? Any ideas?:confused:
 

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Yes. I've read that Windex is really good for cleaning heads. Although you must be sure to get Windex Classic because it supposedly doesn't have wax. Either way, I would check the label carefully before using it.

Also, I've read that plain distilled water works as well. I guess you can use a syringe to gently ease the water into one of the holes in the head (sorry for my lack of technical words). But then you want to use the syringe to suck out the dried ink. Ultimately, you want to pull out more than you put in- be extremely careful not to force too much water in.

Also, I've been told that an ultrasonic cleaning machine works wonders. And you know how everyone just happens to have one of those sitting around, right? ;) Just fire it up.
 

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Hey all. My DTG build is currently in process. I'm modeling it after German's V3. German, I think I saw a picture in this thread a few months ago of the actual encoder wheel and the PE motor. It looked like that PE belt was a little longer than what comes with the 1900. Did you have that manufactured by SDP/SI? I like the idea of leaving that motor in its default location, but I'm afraid I'm lost when it comes to pitch and number of grooves (for input on this page). Could you or anyone here possibly tell me what the pitch would be? I think I would like my center distance around 6 inches. Also, to find the number of grooves- is that just a matter of counting the teeth around each pulley? :confused:

I'm sorry for being so lost on this stuff. Also, I tried to find those pics earlier in this thread but it's a lot like a needle in a haystack.
 

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I didnt, i ran mine just like it normally does.. i think randy put his motor in opposite, therefore reversing the polarity on the motor (just switch the black and red wires) its a dc motor so this will change the direction of travel..:)

best of luck
Whoa, is this the PF Encoder Motor (for the drive shaft) you're talking about? That's awesome, I will have to try that! :)
 

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Hey everyone. It's been a long time since I've checked in- but I want to inform the general community here that I'm just about finished with my diy dtg. It's an r1900 following German's V3 but with a plastic polyethylene base. This project has been in limbo for EVER- but I've been patiently working on it in my free time. I'm hoping to actually attach the frame with the head to my base this week and plug everything in. I'm a little nervous about the initial trial runs. This thread and German's videos have basically given me all the info I needed. Hopefully things work out. Thanks!!:p
 
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