[cmos]

Good work Jeff
What kind of belt you have used?

 

[cmos]

I am thrilled too, my machine is practically finished
Jeff you beat me for 12 hours
We need a cheap rip, I liked multirip too but it is expensive

 

[cmos]

I feel intoxicated with the making of this machine...i dont know what i will do after i finish the cosmetic part LOL

 

[cmos]

Does it use control of the print feed motor or just speed up/slow down the print head or maybe change where it does it's thing?

What you mean?

You can right click on the pic an then select open in a new window, this helps my eyes too

 

[cmos]

Im having troubles with multirip-printer (cant tell if it is the rip or the printer), so i wanted to format my hard drive to see what is really going on. I removed the validation, got the invalidation code and when i went to the site to store the validation back to my account i got this message:

"StopCopy Net Error Page


(81) Selected Product Code does not allow Incremental Activations!"


Does anyone know anything about this error??

Either the product that i bought has a problem or their activation/deactivation site has a problem
The sure thing is that there is a problem
Currently i have 1 invalidation code and 2 remaining installations
I sent a mail to iproof systems yesterday and i wait for them to reply hopefully tomorrow

 

[cmos]

If you need to re-load the RIP you never have to remove the validation, you loose a validation if you were to change computers or it crashes for what ever reason and or if it were your last RIP validation than you can remove it.
The RIP can be switched between Roll and Sheet mode very easily, now as far as nozzle checks andprint head alignment features I use the OEM utilities for this and it works quite nicely
"I hope this helps"
Dan
"HAPPY PRINTING"

As i said before i had to format my drive, not just "re-load" the software in the same windows installation.
I did everything as described in the support video for validation removal. [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUcimK1nW7I[/media]Everything went as the video described except of the very last step which give this error

 

[cmos]

Good bye Bob. Good luck whatever you 'll do

 

[cmos]

Good luck to your father and you Jeff.

 

[cmos]

If you say that overheating is such an issue, why not just turn off the printer when you see it slowing down, get a big fan/AC to cool it down a bit and then try again? You've probably got a fan lying around, and if it works it will be a dirt cheap way to ensure good productivity.

I dont believe thats a good idea because the fan will dry the air and there is possibility to dry the printhead and clog it. If the printer is closed and the head is in the capping station then the air will not cool the head as much as you would like and everything there will dry

 

[cmos]

Well done Randy!
Jeff i haven't look too much into the big ones, but the main advantage of the brothers in my opinion is that they are tough machines like every brother i have ever seen and their ink cures much faster than others ink. If i had a big shop brother would be definitely one of my choices. This is why i built a diydtg after all.... i wouldn't pay thousands for a hacked 400$ epson with so many problems these machines have.

 

[cmos]

I use the 2100/2200 but i started a year ago, right now i agree with Jeff, if i was starting now i would have bought the 1900 because the most problems have been solved and is newer and much faster than the 2200

 

[cmos]

I dont see any reason why resolute wont work on a 1900
Try Home - resoluteink.co.uk i buy from there

 

[cmos]

Good work Jeff and Randy
Thank you for making this available to the community!!!!

 

[cmos]

Another choise is to buy Multirip GP for direct to garment printing and Multirip Film for screen Printing and ask for a discount, i dont know how multirip gp works with the Tdozer design though

 

[cmos]

For Roll Mode i guess you have to use the JRC, i dont believe you need this for the Manual Feed Mode. But in a way you are right cause Manual Feed will add time for loading the shirts. This is how i work now with my 2100

 

[cmos]

Yes it makes perfect sense, and i am telling you again that this the way i print now when using the multirip interface, i sent the job with one click, it prints the white, then the printer lights paper out, i reload the platen and then i print the cmyk layer. The downside is that i have to load the platen twice and waste about 15-20 secs which is nothing for me as i have only one heat press and my production times are now limited by this factor. No need for JRC no need for 2 prints when using the multirip interface (Print from Rip Application).
2 prints are needed when you use another program like photoshop and use the rip as a driver (Print to Rip Application)

On the other side if i want to go faster i can load 2-3 plattens on a bed using the step and repeat feature

 

[cmos]

Hi
If you have to remove the shirt from the platen to heat it on the press for white how do you line it back up on the platen to print the color? do you press platen and all if thats possible
Thanks

You dont have to heat press the white before printing colors.
The order is this
Pretreat before the white and cure the pretreatment.
Print white
Print CMYK
Then heat press to cure.
Finish

 

[cmos]

As i hear from you the EK is the best for DIYers right now, and i have no reason to not believe you, if multirip guys dont upgrade their program they will be left behind. I dont know why the jobs cant be controlled by the RIP and the JRC is needed cause i haven't looked into this issue at all. I believe its because of their coding or marketing policy i cant think of something else. Maybe Mark can explain better, i m just a customer...

What you mean running a different engine with the 1900? A separate printer? A printer with both 1900 and 4800 on it?

I have some thoughts but i will not build anything else before i build a cnc to make all the little parts needed before i start searching about another dtg build
I have 2 2100s waiting for me to take their shafts and make the cnc

 

[cmos]

So Jeff you mean making a Hybrid printer with the Mechanics of a 1900 and electronics of a 4800... Why not just make a 4800 dtg?

I really cannot see any advantages on this concept, i only see problems. As far as i know the 48xx series are 17inch wide, how will we pass the start up tests with the 1900 being a 13inch printer? And lets say that we overcome all problems, what is the profit of this idea? A faster printer? I only see a 4800 with a smaller footprint. I believe there are much cheaper ways to achieve front loading.

There is a motor with encoder that can be used or a second motor can be used with terminal switch or other sensors. In both cases there will be a need additional circuitry which will be much cheaper from a 4880 motherboard. I have some thoughts on using the existing printer motor for auto reload for the 2 pass jobs. The motor and encoder must be electronically disconnected (in a way that the printer will not error) and connected to another circuit that will do the job and then connected to the printer again to resume normal operation

 

[cmos]

Ok now it starts making some sense...
They probably use the 48xx motherboard in order to load or re-load their "platten" from their driver interface this is the only benefit i can see right now.
And of course the cost...