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Not only are you a craftsman but brilliant too. Very nice looking machine and art work. My wife is slowly getting stronger where I may be able to get out of the house sometime soon and with your success, this is going to be a have-to project (only in my mind) for starting up a small endeavor to give us something to do when she is able. Thank you for you help, ideas and inspiration. I have everything but the DTG and with you help, that isn't far off. Two question though if you don't mind. do you know how much the EKPrint rip will cost and do you think it is as good or better than the Multi RIP? Well one more. What did you use to make the belt with?Sorry. You posted that answer while I was typing.
 

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Thank you for the well wishes. If they are comparable in price, I will probably go with MULTI RIP when the time comes. Mark has been here for a long time and always very helpfull when he can. I saw in looking up some of your other threads that you have some experience with the 1100. I didn't find a lot of information about using it for DTG (will do a search) but with being a 24/7 care-taker, my funds are limited and if this is a viable machine for this process, it would make a good first production DTGfor someone like me at a hugh savings to gather the extra funds to make the 1900 for using on collors and darks shirts. Does it need a RIP to work for just white shirts? And, do you know of any posts/threads that work with/on/about the 1100 just in case I miss something important in my searching? Again, thank you.
Terry
 

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Thank you. You saved me a lot of time trying to find information. Theres not a lot of it on anyone that tried an 1100 and kept going. I will want/need to have a machine that is able to do small production (like in a flea market situation) without a lot of hick-ups so I will start preparing for the 1900 to get started after I get the c120 to work.
 

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Thanks again. Yes, the foot print of your machine is a very good size to fit into a booth at the local flea market here. Actualy, it looks totaly like a factiry made piece of equipment with the cover removed in the video. You have also inspired me to look into plastic welding. I had seen the "plastic welders" at harbour freight but just thought it would be a useless gadget for anything that had to be rigid. I do welding on steel with a mig unit and some braising with a torch so it shoulden't be a long stretch for me.
Terry
 

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terry...

heres a tip i haven't shared yet besides with bob.. the material i used is pvc type II high impact plastic.. therefor it can be solvent welded ie( plumbing glue) it just takes a bit longer to set up and your cuts have to be precise even the cut edges sanded smooth for good contact.. i suggest making a square jig;) for those not confident about the plastic welding..

i use the plastic welder because my edges dont have to be perfect the rod fills it.;) then i just sand the top level..

also you could build it from plexi ie acrylic,plexi glass lexan available at lowes;)..this can be painted with acrylic paint and will look the same or vinyl stickered.. the best part of this material is it is solvented welded also but its bond is instant.. heres the trick you use (mek) available at most hardware stores including lowes..lol:D its branded as a parts cleaner and its some potent stuff..lol (this is the main ingredient in most plastic glues) you will use it in its pure form, it has the consistency of water use a syringe or hypo applicator to apply the liquid to the pieces to be bonded, instantly becomes one piece make sure you have it in a jig no taking it apart (this is how fish tanks are made;)) what it does is disolve or soften the molecules for a second between the two pieces that are to be joined then it hardens intertwining the two pieces molecules ie (becomes one piece) its not gluing, solvent welding:)

additionally you polish the edges using a map gas torch..similar to the small propane torch just different gas... it makes it awesome...
Those are some very nice tips. I may have used that cleaner before without realizing its abilities. I know I have used acetone and that stuff evaporates way quick. And I do still have and old table saw (cheap but has a good ripfence) so i will be good to go when the time comes to start building. May have to use the plastic welder though as it doesn't make quite perfect cuts. Shoot,I may even do the c120 build that way. Good practice for the real thing. Again, you have my gratitude. :D
Terry
 

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Does it use control of the print feed motor or just speed up/slow down the print head or maybe change where it does it's thing? Also, I am wondering if you guys have the pictures or your builds/parts/machines on-line where someone/I would be able to download them to be able to get a better look at them? Those little pop up picture aren't very easy for old eyes to get a good look at and it would be nice to have a lot of them available to look at/through without having to look online at different places every time I would need to double check something for any ideas I might have.
 

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not yet guys..
my day job takes alot of my time..:)

just got back home...my wifes looking into it i will check the status with her tommorow..its 2:30am here..
in the mean time i will start compiling the pics, files etc on the conversion its super simple..most difficult part is building the base itself;) it will take some time to do the detailed measurments parts list etc...im very detailed cant help it its my nature, and i do not want it to be subpar.. i dont like doing general build plans..I,m sure it will be appreciated that way however.. plus it saves the million questions if some one doesnt understand it;)

P.S NOZZLE CHECK PERFECT AFTER 5 DAYS GONE...PHEEEEW:p PRINTED WITH NO ISSUES
Good to hear about the nozzle checks with no clogs. Is that with white ink? I know my old 1400 gets a clog or two if I don't print at least every third day.
Also good to know your detail oriented. It is actually obvious from what we've seen already. The more detailed the information given to the builder, the better chance they will get things at least close enough to be happy with the end results. ;)
 

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Yes I'm not very mindfull of that arena as I've never done anything intelectualy worth stealing. Although I was thinking about a swivel head razor before they came onto the market but that was just because I hated removing skin when I shaved.
 

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no im just going to use two 3/8ths inch belts on each side of the platen.. (like rainbow printer)

i do have someone sending me a test material aswell, ill see how that works also..

but the timing belts are unbeatable imho...:)
How are you going to use the belts? Possibly turn them with the "teeth" facing outward and the smooth side against the drive rod? :rolleyes:
 

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It took me a couple of tries to figure it out and still not sure but are the belts in the top rail and the "platen"or t-shirt box has a flange that rides on them? To keep the timing correct for the distance traveled, are they driving against the back/smooth side of them or have they/you figured out a way to compensate for the larger diameter of the gears vs. the diameter of the drive shaft?
 

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think of it this way with the original c88 build which is friction drive...there is just ply wood laying on the drive rod for movement 1 to 1 ratio..it doesnt matter what this thickness is it could be 1/4 inch all the way to 4 inches, essentially this is what it is with the shirt board added three to four inches tall. the shaft size to the encoder wheel is the same size 5/16ths with the r1900.

the movement is controlled by the encoder...;)

hope i explained it well enough
Sorry but Im kinda dense. OK. The shaft which in the printer is the drive surface for the paper is 5/16 with a circumference of almost an inch meaning for every revolution it moves either the paper or platen almost 1 inch. Now the diameter of the belt drive gear is larger than 5/16 there making the drive surface (circumference) more (don't know the diameter of the gear) than the almost 1 inch of the 5/16 shaft circumference meaning the drive surface which would be the outside circumference of the larger gear will move farther per a single revolution than the smaller diameter shaft.:D It doesn't sound like I'm explaining myself right here but maybe you can get my direction.
 

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It will travel at the same rate or distance with the bigger pulley..its one to one ratio...;)

ok lets say you have a half inch piece of ply wood laying on the drive rod...(c88 build) so its 1/2 larger than the 5/16th rod..it has no change in print speed or distance traveled.. so consider this pulley the additional 1/2 plywood,in addition you are not taking into consideration the additional height of the shirt board-platen which normally = 3-4 inches additional height off the drive rod, so really the height is about five inches some more some less..for example my printer has a drive belt around the drive shaft and has an additional platen height of 3 1/4 inches, it will travel the same as intended..so essentially the 1/4 higher pulley is the same thing it just does a loop;) its one to one ratio.. the encoder controls distance traveled...

dont know how else to explain it..

hope it helps
I thought the encoder used is for counting revolutions and is accepting that the drive surfase has a given circumference to determine the distance traveled.
But it is the surface of the shaft, not what ever is on top of it that determines the distance traveled, not the height of whatever it drives. Its like putting monster tires on a truck after running regular sized tires. The distance traveled will be farther for one revolution of the monster tire than the distance traveled for one revolution of the smaller tire. I will have to wait and see how it goes for you.:D I'm still kinda hardheaded I recon.
Terry
 

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P.S

how i go about adjusting the table feed movement is as follows- the rip gives you the demention of the graphic size that it is supposed to be..say 8x10.. i print it out, measure the image with a caliper and adjust the settings till i get it to the exact numbers the rip says..then i adjust for any banding if needed usually the only banding is in 720 res and it is minimal;)
If you remember, I had dthese same doubts myself. I'm glad you finaly elaborated on how the difference is made to keep the print looking like it is supposed to when the drive system has been altered.:D The rip will compensate for the difference in drive speed or distance per revolution? ;)
 

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I looked at the EKPrint site and they have a rip for the R1400 I noticed. If one were to decide on just doing white shirts, do you know enough about them to know weather or not their rip would do the equivilant for that printer? I thought about asking their "contact" email address but not sure how to make myself understood. Thanks.
Terry
 

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Reading your next to last post got me to thinking about paper modes and the things in my 1400 that would be more of a detriment to making a DTG, like the CD printing, and decided that having the paper roll mode would make things so much simpler to be well worth the extra costs even if I still plan on doing just white shirts. I know you keep telling us all these things and do appreciate it. I'm just hard headed untill I get the ideas sorted out in my mind and understand the whats, hows, and whys.. Anyway, thanks again and I am still following this thread instead of the 1400. Don't want my old foggy brain to get too confused.:D
 

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good luck and hoping for good test results. My mother and grandmother died with lung cancer and its not the easiest thing to watch a loved one go through. Remember while caring for and about your father to care for yoiurself as well.
 

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I know the feeling. I jumped right in to the level that I'm at and realize that I could have gone in a differetn direction and probably been better off. This is only suposition since I can't get out and do any marketing but have to spend all my time with Cathy which I like better than working in the long run anyway.
 
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