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Thanks again. Yes, the foot print of your machine is a very good size to fit into a booth at the local flea market here. Actualy, it looks totaly like a factiry made piece of equipment with the cover removed in the video. You have also inspired me to look into plastic welding. I had seen the "plastic welders" at harbour freight but just thought it would be a useless gadget for anything that had to be rigid. I do welding on steel with a mig unit and some braising with a torch so it shoulden't be a long stretch for me.
Terry
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Thanks again. Yes, the foot print of your machine is a very good size to fit into a booth at the local flea market here. Actualy, it looks totaly like a factiry made piece of equipment with the cover removed in the video. You have also inspired me to look into plastic welding. I had seen the "plastic welders" at harbour freight but just thought it would be a useless gadget for anything that had to be rigid. I do welding on steel with a mig unit and some braising with a torch so it shoulden't be a long stretch for me.
Terry
terry...

heres a tip i haven't shared yet besides with bob.. the material i used is pvc type II high impact plastic.. therefor it can be solvent welded ie( plumbing glue) it just takes a bit longer to set up and your cuts have to be precise even the cut edges sanded smooth for good contact.. i suggest making a square jig;) for those not confident about the plastic welding..

i use the plastic welder because my edges dont have to be perfect the rod fills it.;) then i just sand the top level..

also you could build it from plexi ie acrylic,plexi glass lexan available at lowes;)..this can be painted with acrylic paint and will look the same or vinyl stickered.. the best part of this material is it is solvented welded also but its bond is instant.. heres the trick you use (mek) available at most hardware stores including lowes..lol:D its branded as a parts cleaner and its some potent stuff..lol (this is the main ingredient in most plastic glues) you will use it in its pure form, it has the consistency of water use a syringe or hypo applicator to apply the liquid to the pieces to be bonded, instantly becomes one piece make sure you have it in a jig no taking it apart (this is how fish tanks are made;)) what it does is disolve or soften the molecules for a second between the two pieces that are to be joined then it hardens intertwining the two pieces molecules ie (becomes one piece) its not gluing, solvent welding:)

additionally you polish the edges using a map gas torch..similar to the small propane torch just different gas... it makes it awesome...

P.S DO NOT ATTEMPT TO POLISH THE EDGES WITH ANY MEK PRESENT IT IS EXTREMELY FLAMABLE..
 

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terry...

heres a tip i haven't shared yet besides with bob.. the material i used is pvc type II high impact plastic.. therefor it can be solvent welded ie( plumbing glue) it just takes a bit longer to set up and your cuts have to be precise even the cut edges sanded smooth for good contact.. i suggest making a square jig;) for those not confident about the plastic welding..

i use the plastic welder because my edges dont have to be perfect the rod fills it.;) then i just sand the top level..

also you could build it from plexi ie acrylic,plexi glass lexan available at lowes;)..this can be painted with acrylic paint and will look the same or vinyl stickered.. the best part of this material is it is solvented welded also but its bond is instant.. heres the trick you use (mek) available at most hardware stores including lowes..lol:D its branded as a parts cleaner and its some potent stuff..lol (this is the main ingredient in most plastic glues) you will use it in its pure form, it has the consistency of water use a syringe or hypo applicator to apply the liquid to the pieces to be bonded, instantly becomes one piece make sure you have it in a jig no taking it apart (this is how fish tanks are made;)) what it does is disolve or soften the molecules for a second between the two pieces that are to be joined then it hardens intertwining the two pieces molecules ie (becomes one piece) its not gluing, solvent welding:)

additionally you polish the edges using a map gas torch..similar to the small propane torch just different gas... it makes it awesome...
Those are some very nice tips. I may have used that cleaner before without realizing its abilities. I know I have used acetone and that stuff evaporates way quick. And I do still have and old table saw (cheap but has a good ripfence) so i will be good to go when the time comes to start building. May have to use the plastic welder though as it doesn't make quite perfect cuts. Shoot,I may even do the c120 build that way. Good practice for the real thing. Again, you have my gratitude. :D
Terry
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Those are some very nice tips. I may have used that cleaner before without realizing its abilities. I know I have used acetone and that stuff evaporates way quick. And I do still have and old table saw (cheap but has a good ripfence) so i will be good to go when the time comes to start building. May have to use the plastic welder though as it doesn't make quite perfect cuts. Shoot,I may even do the c120 build that way. Good practice for the real thing. Again, you have my gratitude. :D
Terry
THANKS AGAIN,for the kind words...best of luck on your build...
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
ok guys,

I'm figuring out the settings and understanding the rip a little more..

the t-shirts i printed in the video where 1400x1400 res

the 720x720 wasn't giving me the detail i wanted, but here is what is awesome i discovered the rip has a table movement adjustment
gap adjust and feed adjust im still playing with this but ive got a perfect image at 720x720

anyone familiar with how jerky the bed is at low res will understand this completely

so in the video if you thought that was a fast print at 1400x1400..well you can just about cut that time in half or better closer to half by my calculations printing the same image..

and it gives the same quality picture in my opinion... no distortion etc

just freaking awesome... i already considered the rip a necessity but this feature alone is worth the money to me... i posted this vid of mark explaining the mod 1 at a trade show in the other thread..but if you watch it all the way thru he explains this res issue at 720x720 apparently he has some firmware that overcomes this issue my guess is its in the rip programming as it has these adjustments on them..here it is again..
YouTube - T-Biz Network Interview Mark Monbourquette at SGIA '09

now the machine just cranks out the images whether it be graphics or photos super fast like its nothing, just as the printer normally would..just awesome..im jacked up about this..
jeff
 

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Does it use control of the print feed motor or just speed up/slow down the print head or maybe change where it does it's thing? Also, I am wondering if you guys have the pictures or your builds/parts/machines on-line where someone/I would be able to download them to be able to get a better look at them? Those little pop up picture aren't very easy for old eyes to get a good look at and it would be nice to have a lot of them available to look at/through without having to look online at different places every time I would need to double check something for any ideas I might have.
 

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Hi, just noticed the DIY threads and your machine looks awesome :) The only plans or info on building is the C88 plans, is there a link somewhere to plans for something like yours with the 1900? I've been watching the DTG industry change the past few years and I've been looking for a possible way to do some shirts of my own as a hobby. I design for screen print here at work full time, can't convince the boss to invest in an expensive DTG machine. I'd love to have my own machine at home to sell my stuff online or print for friends or just for a fun project :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
Hi, just noticed the DIY threads and your machine looks awesome :) The only plans or info on building is the C88 plans, is there a link somewhere to plans for something like yours with the 1900? I've been watching the DTG industry change the past few years and I've been looking for a possible way to do some shirts of my own as a hobby. I design for screen print here at work full time, can't convince the boss to invest in an expensive DTG machine. I'd love to have my own machine at home to sell my stuff online or print for friends or just for a fun project :)
I'M going to put together some detailed plans...just not sure quite yet which format i will use to do that..

I have even considered doing a step by step video tutorial, i have a multitude of requests for the plans where the people are concerned with the video approach due to not being able to understand spoken english, so have requested sub-title's..


anyway im still looking at the best approach for this, either way it will be put on my website, i'm going to put this out for almost nothing (almost) excluding the people who provided me info here it will be free to them(you know who you are). In addition i will include all part #s etc and where to buy, you will need a rip program (highly recommend one) ink carts or a bulk system and dtg ink, when i release the plans i will explain what works best for the machine to date and why. i am also working on a diy recirculating pump for the white ink, not completely necessary with good maintenance but a major benefit..could be a bit on that yet. i have alot of things going on:)

so it will work similar to how the original c88 plans worked on his site.. if you have followed the threads i originally started, i tried to do this with a micro-controller first but ended up having to many obstacles and cost involved ie additional power source and sensors needed over loading the mother board, blowing fuses etc.. some have experience with that realm with previously manufactured machines- so i had some 3rd party cost that i would like to recoupe

What i'm most looking forward to in the future is reading the post of people who built the (t-dozer) allowing them to get in the dtg game at a low cost and be profitable without lease payments or high cost machines..(that was my build objective) not all will have the carpentry skills to do this, and i would suggest finding someone local to you that does and have them build it for you..still a cheap alternative..

I'M letting the interest build a bit, so when i release them things will work fast. once there released there is the possibility of leaks, file sharing etc no matter the protection put in place, just a fact of life.. if you catch my drift;)

i did get an offer on the whole design-rights..i declined...the project was born here and i received alot of info here so that will be my way of saying thank you..some might not think that is the case due to a cost....but i did incur costs while putting together or inventing the machine, and i guarantee for the small investment they make in building there machine...it will pay for itself a million times over:D

I really only consider the wiring modifications the only proprietary info, which will also work on other epson printers to be disclosed in the plans.you could put this to any delivery system (base) you wanted. i honestly believe this will be the closest dtg to an epson produced dtg to date..until they make one:D due to it being 100% epson firmware...
 

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I am going out to BURNING MAN in September and have tie-dyed some t-shirts for my crew that I'd like to screen print a logo on over some glow-in-the-dark paint areas.

WTB: CHEAP ! used 1/2 color press that is working and not busted. Not starting a business. A couple 20x24 110 screens and supplies including black plastisol. I have a little cash, but it's cash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
Can you do a printhead alignment without getting any errors?
yes...100% error free.. aswell as nozzle checks;) this is done directly from the utilities of the ek rip..www.eukondigital.com/

ek rip included some very nice features in the trial version of the rip...to accommodate my design free of charge, and they have made it a standard feature included with there new version (3.4.3) when you purchase it .. they also have a very nice feature included which is a table movement adjusment for the r1900. it allows you to print in 720 res with the stock epson firmware by adjusting the gap and feed...at blazing speed as seen in the vid..priceless;) the platen size is 13x19..

you can also do this with an updated printer jockey program from what i understand but i have not tried this...
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
Hey guys

ill prob be out till monday, going out of town...but i will try to check in here in the evenings..:D

additionally i will be adding a link to my site with my signature in the near future... this way i can conform and stay within the forum guidelines... there is a fine line here as far as my help on the forums and what the project has evolved into.., and i certainly want to respect that..

i will continue to provide info..etc on the forums if anyone has questions on the how to procedures of fabrication, but my plans (electronic conversion portion)are a separate venture that evolved from here not to be confused with the free info regarding (plastic base and plastic fabrication and design..;)

so i would appreciate any questions regarding plans be directed to the site link when provided and not here.. :)

Have an awesome weekend...

jeff
 
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