[Tmoney]

Thank you so much that was a lot of help! I'm still learning how this whole thing works so it's kinda nervwrecking! All i have is my little small Geo Knight Swing-away Heat Press! i've had one customer so far and it all turned out fairly well considering my first time experience! If i use Plastisol instead of my opaques will i get better results? Also can i put any ink into my printer?
Thanks again

 

[Girlzndollz]

Thank you so much that was a lot of help! I'm still learning how this whole thing works so it's kinda nervwrecking!

I know, I still remember how completely confusing and complicated it felt to piece it all together. When I was trying to improve my existing process, and joined here, it felt like a very mind melting and like you said, nervewracking experiece, so don't worry, most of us have been there, too. That's kind of why I try to write as much info as possible, to help with that. I know my posts get a little long for some people's taste, but for the person they are written for, hopefully it does the trick.

I'll be learning my cutter soon (I hope!!) so I'll be starting from square one with that, hopefully someone will write long posts for me!!

Anyway, not to worry. It does take time, and I know that will be the same for me with my cutter, but it'll happen, for both of us.

i've had one customer so far and it all turned out fairly well considering my first time experience!

Awesome, that is great. Hopefully, the first of many.

All i have is my little small Geo Knight Swing-away Heat Press! If i use Plastisol instead of my opaques will i get better results?

Ok, I would suggest that if you want to use plastisols (or stock transfers) that you check that your heat press has the power (watts/amps) requiremented to make a successful transfer (since you said your press was "little").

I picked that tidbit up researching the smaller sized presses. One supplier noted that one of the smaller presses they sell was not powerful enough to handle all of the stock transfers on the market, so I made a note to buy one that could handle all commercial transfers, not just inkjet heat transfers, in case I decided to go that route someday. The info was specific to stock heat transfers, so I think if you just check with the plastisol supplier you plan to use, then you should be okay.

I think plastisols are grades above opaque inkjet heat transfer paper. When plastisols are made properly, they are the same quality as plastisol screen print, and that is a much better product (imo) for dark shirts then the inkjet dark paper.

Also can i put any ink into my printer?
Thanks again

You can put any ink into your printer that is made to go into your printer, like:
* OEM ink (Epson ink if the printer is Epson)
* Third party generic ink that is designed for use in your printer.
* Some people buy a dye based printer and run 3rd party generic pigment ink in them, being careful to avoid clogs.
* Some people buy Epson pigment based printers and use 3rd party generic pigment ink in them.

What you cannot do is take an Epson pigment based printer and put plastisol screen print ink into it, DTG ink, etc.

If there is a kit available on the market, like those sold by inkjetcarts.us, shopdyesub.com, inkjetfly.com, then you can use a different ink if it's for sale on a website like that for your printer model.

I hope that helps and is not too confusing.

If part of the question is can you use plastisol inks in your inkjet printer to make plastisols, then the answer would be that you need screen print equipment/supplies to produce plastisols.

Hope this helps. Best wishes.

 

[rusty]

I often see people say that the quality of plastisol transfers is equal to that of screen printing. I have to disagree. I am a screen printer and also do DyeSub and vinyl. I decided to try some plastisol transfers because I had heard so many people say they were just as good. So I got samples from 3 of the top recommended companies, and tried them myself. While they are good, they are not equal to screen printing, in my opinion. And I've tried to sell them to 3 of my customers, and they all looked at the samples, and said, "no thanks, I want screen printing."

If you showed people a screen printed shirt and a plastisol pressed shirt side by side, I would guess that 90% of the people would say they would prefer the screen printed shirt. I think the plastisol transfers feel heavier and more rubbery than screen printing. I think the heat pressing step causes that.

I'm not trying to knock plastisol transfers, and I would sell them (if I could), but I don't think it's accurate to tell everybody they are equal in quality. Maybe in longevity, but not in feel and look.

 

[wormil]

The face of a transfer is printed on a ultra smooth surface and doesn't have the irregularities of a direct screenprint which can produce a rubbery feeling or sheen that varies from manufacturer. Usually after one wash the transfer looks and feels very different. It's just a limitation of the process. I've screenprinted both textiles and transfers. With screenprinting you have a lot more versatility, you can do special effects and/or get a softer hand. But transfers also have advantages over screenprint since they can be printed now and pressed later, misprints don't go on the shirts and it's easier to press certain materials rather than print them directly. And the truth is, transfers from the main transfer companies are often much more consistent than many manual press guys out there, especially the inexperienced guys. So better is conditional... if your objective is a soft hand then direct printing is better, if your objective is to fulfill orders on demand then transfers are better. For Joe's Deli down the street who just wants pocket logo tees for his employees, it doesn't make any difference.

 

[rusty]

The face of a transfer is printed on a ultra smooth surface and doesn't have the irregularities of a direct screenprint which can produce a rubbery feeling or sheen that varies from manufacturer. Usually after one wash the transfer looks and feels very different. It's just a limitation of the process. I've screenprinted both textiles and transfers. With screenprinting you have a lot more versatility, you can do special effects and/or get a softer hand. But transfers also have advantages over screenprint since they can be printed now and pressed later, misprints don't go on the shirts and it's easier to press certain materials rather than print them directly. And the truth is, transfers from the main transfer companies are often much more consistent than many manual press guys out there, especially the inexperienced guys. So better is conditional... if your objective is a soft hand then direct printing is better, if your objective is to fulfill orders on demand then transfers are better. For Joe's Deli down the street who just wants pocket logo tees for his employees, it doesn't make any difference.

Rick, you are exactly right. Plastisol transfers do have some advantages over screen printing as you have mentioned. But if we are just talking quality of the print, straight up, I'd have to put screen printing ahead of transfers, for the sake of this quality discussion.

 

[Girlzndollz]

I'm not trying to knock plastisol transfers, and I would sell them (if I could), but I don't think it's accurate to tell everybody they are equal in quality.

I think Rusty has a good point. When I wrote this, it was over a year ago. I compiled the general information I was reading into one post, as this question on what quality is better than what came up nearly daily - in some form or another. I made a clear disclaimer that anyone with more information should pls chime in as the list was not a one stop shop for info. It was - by nature - very vague and basic - and that was it's intent when written.

There is no way one post can cover the quality differences, nor can one post cover the personal preferences held by folks of one method over another.

I've since changed the way I myself describe plastisol transfers, as I studied them more indepth over the year for my own use. I now actually say in posts that plastisol transfers are/can be the same quality as plastisol screen printing when processed correctly by the mfg.

But there are other methods of screen printing (discharge, water based) and plastisol transfers are really nothing like them, out side of being screen print methods.

So long story short, I totally see Rusty point, and it's a valid one (one that warrants a tweaking of the original post, rather than being lost back here). Rusty, thank you for posting because that's what I had asked for in the original post.

All the information you and everyone else posts in here just makes this thread a better and better resource. Thanks to you and everyone else for your input.

Thanks, Rick, for your great post. When it comes to plastisol, you are the man I turn to for info. I've learned more from you about them than anyone, and often refer people to your plastisol thread. Thanks.

 

[adoptivemom1]

I have to say I do almost exclusively vinyl cut heat press method. Customers are very pleased with the product, that I can do 1 or 101 at a reasonable cost, and that it lasts. It has a professional feel and look to it, without the 'crackling' people tend to put with screen printed garments. My customers also tend to iron their garments, and when gently done, you can do that with these shirts. I have recently gotton into ink-jet transfers for mouse pads, coastes, etc. People seem to have a I-can-do-it-myself perception when it comes to ink-jet transfer with all the (for lack of a better term) "over the counter" ink jet papers that people use at home. If I can show them the difference, it makes a real impact. If it's not face-to-face contact, people can't really see the difference in quality and durability over time. Just my opinion- hope it helps! Amy

 

[robramos]

I am confused about plastisol ink. From what I understand above, the plastisol is printed onto release paper, and then applied to shirts. What is release paper? How many shirts can be made from one "release paper" I have been using plastisol to print directly onto shirts, but I have problems curing and heat setting. The ink seems to come off when heat is added... this is starting to make sense I might have answered my own question

 

[rusty]

I am confused about plastisol ink. From what I understand above, the plastisol is printed onto release paper, and then applied to shirts. What is release paper? How many shirts can be made from one "release paper" I have been using plastisol to print directly onto shirts, but I have problems curing and heat setting. The ink seems to come off when heat is added... this is starting to make sense I might have answered my own question

Release paper is just some heat resistant paper that hold the ink. You press the plastisol transfer onto the shirt using a heat press. You can only use each transfer (release paper) only once.

What do you mean that ink comes off when heat is added? How are you adding the heat?

 

[robramos]

Well, we are screen printing directly onto shirts with the plastisol ink using a home made screen printer. I heat set it using the oven and went to cure it with an iron using a hankerchief to cover the image. The ink reverse printed onto the hankerchief and yet, the shirt seemed more vibrant and colorful. I am just trying to find the best method to print and crisp image and make sure all are correctly dried for future use. T-shirt forum is helping tremendously and I appreciate our input. So release paper could be something as simple as parchment? How long does the image need to effectively transfer from the paper to the shirt?

Thanks again

 

[Girlzndollz]

Hi Rob,

To find out more details about how to Make Your Own Plastisol Transfers, here is a great article by Titere for you:

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/t-shirt-articles/t14049.html

There are good comments in the thread attached to it, hope it helps answer some of those questions!

 

[rusty]

Well, we are screen printing directly onto shirts with the plastisol ink using a home made screen printer. I heat set it using the oven and went to cure it with an iron using a hankerchief to cover the image. The ink reverse printed onto the hankerchief and yet, the shirt seemed more vibrant and colorful. I am just trying to find the best method to print and crisp image and make sure all are correctly dried for future use. T-shirt forum is helping tremendously and I appreciate our input. So release paper could be something as simple as parchment? How long does the image need to effectively transfer from the paper to the shirt?

Thanks again

For plastisol, you don't need to both "heat set" and "cure". I am a screen printer and never iron or heat press my shirts. Plastisol will cure at about 320 degrees in an oven.

 

[MotoskinGraphix]

Rick, you are exactly right. Plastisol transfers do have some advantages over screen printing as you have mentioned. But if we are just talking quality of the print, straight up, I'd have to put screen printing ahead of transfers, for the sake of this quality discussion.

I dont really see a quality difference in a transfer made for dark colors and a screenprint with an underbase for dark colors. Unless you are doing something special as is the ability of direct screening I see a transfer as the same quality.

I can see a difference in the hand if the transfer is created for both darks and lights as many are but I have also seen super rubbery heavy directly screened designs for darks.

I have used thousands of stock and custom ordered transfers, used cad cut vinyl, used the ink based cad cut dura cut product, screened with plastisol and waterbased inks as well as played with inkjet transfers.

I have a closet full of all the examples mentioned above that are worn regularly in the Texas sun.

For longevity of the print and retention of color I see no problems at all with a quality plastisol transfer over direct plastisol prints.

 

[rusty]

I dont really see a quality difference in a transfer made for dark colors and a screenprint with an underbase for dark colors. Unless you are doing something special as is the ability of direct screening I see a transfer as the same quality.

I can see a difference in the hand if the transfer is created for both darks and lights as many are but I have also seen super rubbery heavy directly screened designs for darks.

It comes down to personal opinion as to the quality. Every customer that I've shown samples of each choose screen printing over plastisol transfers, especially for darks. Keep in mind that I'm comparing the transfers to a "quality professional" screen print, not the rubbery ones that some unexperienced screen printers make. In my experience, the transfers for darks are all heavy and rubbery, but when screen printed correctly, they should never have a heavy rubbery feel to them. If the underbase is causing them to be heavy and rubbery, then it's not being done correctly.

 

[son.of.a.fish]

PAPER for light shirts: Using JPSS (Jetprosofstretch) I get fabulous transfers. Superior color retention, the paper stretches with the shirt, no cracking or peeling, very little hand (soft feel) and - I've bleached JPSS shirts with no fade.

can i know the settings you are using with your heat press? i use the same paper but sometimes it fades a lot. my supplier sometimes says: too hot! or too cold! or too much pressure! or lack of pressure! so im a bit confused!

nice thread by the way

 

[Q.]

screenprinting = da best

 

[Girlzndollz]

can i know the settings you are using with your heat press? i use the same paper but sometimes it fades a lot. my supplier sometimes says: too hot! or too cold! or too much pressure! or lack of pressure! so im a bit confused!

nice thread by the way

I set my press to 375*F. I press the shirt for about 25-30 seconds.

You're getting fading with JPSS? Have you tried to change your blank? Just to see? Also, what ink are you using?

 

[son.of.a.fish]

You're getting fading with JPSS? Have you tried to change your blank? Just to see? Also, what ink are you using?

Im using Oink premium inks from starline pacific, at the same temp as you but if i try that timing, the backing paper fuse to the blank, and if i low too much the timing is when the ink faded (is not all the time, some times is great and last longer but i dont want a "sometimes" good product)

 

[Girlzndollz]

Im using Oink premium inks from starline pacific,

1. What printer are you using? I see Starline advertises Oink for cotton heat transfers. What I wonder is... if you are using an Epson printer, and if yes, did you try a few transfers with the stock ink that came with the printer. Did it fade also?

Maybe it is the ink? If you do not try your original carts, and do not have them around, you can take a sheet of heat transfer paper to a local office supply store that sells Epsons and ask if they will print a sample sheet of ink on your heat transfer paper.

If you have the carts that came with your printer, you might want to swap them back in for a test. Just print something to get the ink thru the nozzles.

2. Have you tried a "different" blank shirt to be sure the problem isn't the "shirt'' you are using. Blanks can react very differently with the same products. Look like different products when only the blank is changed.

at the same temp as you but if i try that timing, the backing paper fuse to the blank, and if i low too much the timing is when the ink faded (is not all the time, some times is great and last longer

Check the temp of your press. Sometimes a press runs at a different temp then what it is set for. You can find an IR heat temp testing gun at places like Harbor Freight and someone mentioned they got one from Sears. Either way, something is wrong. Some people here press JPSS at 400*F and they don't have the trouble you do at 375*F.

Are you sure your press is F and not C, and that you are converting the correct way if it is C?

but i dont want a "sometimes" good product)

Of course not.

 

[Bcool]

Thanks so much for spelling this out for printing newbies like myself =)