I have read some threads were forum members ask about making Plastisol Transfers.
This is a very easy thing to do and does not differ much of doing it directly to the shirt. Only a few different steps.
I prepared a graphic with the steps and a few images to explain how this works.
Read it and you will be doing plastisol transfer in no time.
If you dont understand something, ask me, I will be glad to explain.
Important notes:
• Plastisol Transfers work great with Union Ink Ultra Soft Plus Inks, this are the ones I use and I have had no problems. Regular plastisol inks dont work. I dont know what other inks will work, if anybody knows, post it here.
• You might clean the base plate after you make the registration with the adhesive tape (step 7).
• Multi color designs can also be printed with this method.
• Dont forget to use adhesive spray to hold paper in place.
• Dry paper using conveyor dryer or spot dryer, using a heat gun is ok too, but heat might not be uniform trought the paper.
• This is obvious but just in case, place printed side facing shirt and back of paper facing the heat press.
• I have used yellow, blue and green over dark shirts and I didnt need a white basecoat.
Step 5 (printing onto the platen) is unnecessary, and a bad practice in my opinion. You can easily register the paper with tape as in step seven without messing up your platen.
I agree with Lewis on that #5 deal. I've made transfers and that is a no-no. And if your not going to use a vacuum platen to hold the paper down, get some unilan powder or something esle for transfers to take the tack off the paper: if you use sticky to hold it in place for multi-colors. If you don't, the paper will stick to the print.
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Step 5 (printing onto the platen) is unnecessary, and a bad practice in my opinion. You can easily register the paper with tape as in step seven without messing up your platen.
You are right Solmu, I agree with you as I dont print on the platten anymore, as it is not hard to do it as you say, but I did it like that at the beginning and I thought that is the easiest way to explain it to peole that has never done it, anyways they were going to figure it out just as I did.
Thanx for posting and keep the comments and suggestions, me and other forum members will be thankful for it!
Thanks for the info on how to make plastisol transfers Titere! I have a couple questions
1. What is the best way to "gel" the transfer
2. Is it possible to use, say, Duracotten HT transfer paper so you don't have to cut around your transfer? (I will be starting with 1 color Tee's if anyone has any suggestions)
Thanks again for the post (I was beginning to think the plastisol process was a big secret!)
Very interesting.. Might be what i need to do for my project.. But I must be lame I cant seem to find that paper.. what is it called.. would any paper work??
thanks for the tips!
Very interesting.. Might be what i need to do for my project.. But I must be lame I cant seem to find that paper.. what is it called.. would any paper work??
thanks for the tips!
So does anyone know what the best way to gel the ink? Also, how thick should the ink be on the paper?
The best way to "cure the ink is a conveyor dryer. Be careful not to over or under cure, especially on the subsequent passes through the dryer for multi-color transfers.
The thichness of the ink is determined by the thichness of the emulsion on the screen and the type of ink being used. All of the ink manufacturers will give you their specs for mesh count, stencil thickness, cure temp. Combine that with a little experimentation.
If you're making multi-color plastisol transfers, one crucial step taht was left out is to run the paper through the dryer first to preshrink the paper before printing the first color. Most transfer papers will shrink a little, enough to cause registration issues.
Also, there are different papers for hot peel and cold peel transfers.
And there are several adhesive powders available that are great for decreasing dwell time when printing and increasing the opacity of the inks.