It would produce a pastel version of whatever the pigment is. If that's not what you're looking for, you'll have to stick with doing an underbase.

I liked GG, but prefer Permaset Supercover, which is a line of opaque inks available in a bunch of colors, so no underbase needed. Note, it is expensive ... you are paying for lots of pigment (and it is from Australia). You also have to keep it wet enough, or it will handle poorly and dry in screen (GG is real simple to use by comparison).

 

Yeah, I was wondering how the color would come out. Pastel would make sense. Most of the custom shirt orders I get need either white or black, but sometimes I get an order that needs a little color. I was hoping that I could save some money and not have to buy quarts of colored ink.

I really was hoping to not need to make another screen to do an underbase that would normally be needed with the GG colors.

I really like Permaset Supercover inks' brightness and opacity, but the price, fast drying/clogging, and clean up are all frustrating to me. One of the biggest things that I like about SC is that you can use it on polyester or poly blends without a low cure additive...you just need to cure at a lower temp and longer. I've actually been able to cure Comet White at 260F on my heat press, but I need to do further testing.

But the biggest factor that keeps me from switching to SC is that you cannot walk away from the press for more than a few minutes.
Right now it takes me 1-2 minutes between passes when I flash (including time to cool down shirt/platen with fan) since I use either a hair dryer or a floor heater as a flash. I have a one station press, but I am about to make a 4 station line table.
With GG, I have stopped to have lunch for at least 30 minutes and had no problems continuing to print! I just needed to do a couple extra strokes to clear the screen.

@NoXid , what do you use to wash SC out of your screens that you reuse?

 

I’ve had difficulty with GG on sim process jobs, particularly with Comet White. When it sits in screen (while I’m doing wet on wet of top colors), it tends to gel up - much like a paste.

I’ve also struggled with top colors washing off the base, but I think I’ve solved that problem with 3mins in the tunnel at about 350*.


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I’ve also struggled with top colors washing off the base, but I think I’ve solved that problem with 3mins in the tunnel at about 350*.

I read a post here saying that the top color washing off of a comet white underbase is usually due to the underbase being flashed to the point that it is cured. If the underbase is flashed to the point of being cured, the top color will not be able to bond/fuse with the underbase properly. Right now, what I do to make sure comet white doesn't get cured when flashing is that I use either a hairdryer or a small fan driven room heater (quieter than a hairdryer) for flashing. Neither will heat the shirt over 170F. I don't own a flash dryer (yet), so I have no choice to use one of them! Then I cure with a heat press.

That's one of the things I worry about when it comes to using an underbase, (other than registration being off and the time needed to make the extra screen for the underbase) which is why I want to eliminate needing to use an underbase. I'm considering using Permaset Supercover inks when I need to print colors on dark or poly/poly-blend shirts, since they dont require an underbase, and can cure as low as 250F with a longer dwell time.

Its just been hard for me to give up on Green Galaxy inks because I love how I can walk away from the press for 30-45 minutes and the screen won't be clogged! Ryonet even has a video where they covered a screen flooded with Green Galaxy ink with a garbage bag and came back the next day to continue printing!

 

I have not, but I have made white ink from the fusion kit to print on black shirts with pleasing results, no ub needed.

 

Hi. What was the ratio for the white ink with the fusion kit. I tried once but it came to transparent on black shirt


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Do not add too much pigment. The pigment should not exceed 25% of the total ink mixture. Otherwise, it will not cure properly.

 

Thanks for the heads up! In fact, in my case, I don't think I had to add too much more pigment than the required to make Pantone white, definitely way lower than 25% .

 

I've mixed fusion into Comet white to create pink. I was at 15% fusion. I called Ryonet before I did it, they salesman wasn't much help. It turned out great.
Fusion Mixing System does not create very opaque colors, but I have been able to print on black/navy with Multiple prints/flashes.
Super Cover works well as long as you keep it wet. I keep a spray bottle handy for all my inks/screens.

On multi color jobs I will spray each one before I move to the next, SC or GG.
We are in a very dry climate. We now use an evaporative cooler (swamp cooler). It keeps humidity up and Temps lower. It is a huge help. Last year I would have to spray the screens almost every round, after the cooler, I could go up to 15 rounds without spraying.
If you haven't used a swamp cooler, be surely to have a way for the air to get out of your space. I set the cooler at my door and a window in the next room with a fan pointed outside. It will keep my shop in the 70s on 90-100* days with a flash and 3000 watt little buddy dryer running