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Discussion starter · #21 · (Edited)
hi guys i am new here just registered today and i ordered a epson 88+ and heat press. was trying out the machine tonight and tried to put a picture onto the shirt and i couldnt get the picture to transfer onto the shirt. if it is possible could you explain the process to me. what i did was print the picture and heat the press to 320 degress which was what the instructions told me to do. i placed the transfer paper to the shirt and clamped down the press and nothing. i left the press closed for a number of different times and nothing. please help....
Hi Goalder,

Welcome to the forum. What kind of paper are you using to transfer onto the shirt? Is it a light shirt or dark. (320* sounds like a low temp for most inkjet heat transfer papers for lights.)

Here is a link that might help: about light and dark transfer papers, teflon, shirts, moisture removal, and step by step instructions for printing/pressing a light shirt and a dark shirt, hope it helps you figure out what went wrong:

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t39007.html#post229735

After you read this link please let me know if you have any Q's. Try to double check that press temp. A good transfer will require the proper heat, pressure and dwell time (length of press time) to be successful. You also must remove the moisture of the shirt, but that info is in the link... Best regards.
 
Thanks JB!!! LOL

Hey...don't know where I've been but just noticed your new product and checked it out!! Wow!! I've got to check that out for myself.

You'll be seeing an order coming through from me very soon my friend...:D
 
hi guys i am new here just registered today and i ordered a epson 88+ and heat press. was trying out the machine tonight and tried to put a picture onto the shirt and i couldnt get the picture to transfer onto the shirt. if it is possible could you explain the process to me. what i did was print the picture and heat the press to 320 degress which was what the instructions told me to do. i placed the transfer paper to the shirt and clamped down the press and nothing. i left the press closed for a number of different times and nothing. please help....
Hey Goalder! Welcome....

I agree that 320 deg sound too low.

But, when you say "nothing" what exactly do you mean? Did anything transfer to the shirt at all? Did the transfer stick to the shirt?

I'm assuming you pressed it ink side down to the shirt (I know it sounds silly but stranger things have happened to people..lol).

Please provide a bit more detail and I'm sure we can get you headed in the right direction.
 
hi guys i am new here just registered today and i ordered a epson 88+ and heat press. was trying out the machine tonight and tried to put a picture onto the shirt and i couldnt get the picture to transfer onto the shirt. if it is possible could you explain the process to me. what i did was print the picture and heat the press to 320 degress which was what the instructions told me to do. i placed the transfer paper to the shirt and clamped down the press and nothing. i left the press closed for a number of different times and nothing. please help....
....if it is a paper for "lights" , print "mirrored" image then press with image facing toward the shirt
...If it is a paper for "darks" ... print image normally (not mirrored) THEN PEEL image off of paper backing, lay it on the shirt (image facing you)cover with teflon /or parchment paper , then press.

I remember once when I was tired , I forgot to "PEEL" my image off of the paper and I just laid it on the shirt the the backing still attached! ,,, I also forgot to lay parchment and teflon on top of the image and GUESS WHAT!!!! OOOOHHHHH A MESS!!!!! LOL!!!:D

My image transferred alright .... right to the heat platen!!!!!
I ,now, never press after 3am!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:D
 
this is the paper that i recieved with my printer and heat press.. True Pix 8.5x11" Sublimation Transfer Paper
The JetPress 12 Heat Transfer Press is the press that i got. what temperature do you recommend for the press. i am not sure if the paper is for dark or light colors. didnt get any info on the paper. thanks for the help. really eager to get this started.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
this is the paper that i recieved with my printer and heat press.. True Pix 8.5x11" Sublimation Transfer Paper
There you go right there, G. Sublimination paper has to be printed with sublimination ink, not pigment or dye, and it presses onto 100% polyester fabrics, not cotton. To press onto cotton, or cotton/blends, you need a paper like Jetprosofstretch and your c88 with pigment inks.

(JPSS @ tshirtsupplies.com = check their prices b4 buying with someone else).

The JetPress 12 Heat Transfer Press is the press that i got. what temperature do you recommend for the press.
The instructions that will come with your new paper will have the temp. For JPSS (jetprosofstretch) the temp is 375* and press for 30 seconds.

i am not sure if the paper is for dark or light colors. didnt get any info on the paper. thanks for the help. really eager to get this started.
It won't really matter unless you plan to print it with sublimination inks. Then, you'll have to stick with a light 100 polyester to get this paper to press. The sub dye inks turn to a gas under the heat of the press and dye the fabric, so it won't leave any box or hand, but it also won't work on cotton, so that could be why you see nothing transfer.

JPSS is currently the best paper out there. Once you print that with your c88, and press onto a cotton or cotton/poly blend, you'll see terrific results. Keep that link above handy. It covers pressing with JPSS.

For your epson c88, you will probably notice a bit of yellowing in your print, most of us do. Go into printer preferences and change the color setttings to something like this: +5 magenta, +5 cyan, and - 10 to - 20 yellow. That usually helps.

I also like to mess around with the contrast to get a richer dark out of the black. Saturation doesn't really help, bc less ink is better when it comes to printing heat transfers. Print on plain paper setting, and text/photo is usually a good setting for quality. Sometimes, I like to go a little higher, depending on the print.

Well, this should cover most of the Q's I remember having when starting out. If you have any others, feel free to ask. Have a great night. Good luck, you'll see alot better results in the future once you get the right paper. :)
 
ok that info helped and i looked to see what kind of ink i have sublimation ink. so my next question is will this ink and the paper that i have print onto cotton shirts or do i need to get polyester only?
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Okay, that works best on 100% polyester... it won't work on 100% cotton, and folks who use sub dye say generally that 50/50 isn't enough poly for good results, but for more on that, best to talk directly to the dye sub people in that forum. But for what you have, generally you are looking at using 100 poly. Have a good night, G. :)
 
My business focuses on logos rather than personal photos and designs, so vinyl is quickly becoming my preferred print method. It is much more durable than silkscreen, has sharper edges and handles fine detail and smaller volumes excellently.

I notice a lot of reference to layered vinyl when talking about multi coloured vinyl prints. One of the ways to increase the quality of your multi-colour prints is to use single-layer vinyl.

Use the upper layers of vinyl as cookie cutters to remove the vinyl from the colours below it. ie. Make a hole the shape of your top colours in the bottom colours. With only one layer of vinyl - and choosing a good quality vinyl - you end up with a very soft finish. Vinyl can support very complex artwork, but balancing the pricing with the time for weeding will be your biggest challenge.

Choosing your vinyl will also make a big impact. The economy vinyl is a thicker vinyl and less tack on the carrier, so this limits you to simple designs. I prefer working with Fashion Film, by Stahls. It is very thin, hardly any hand and the carrier is very sticky. This means fine details cut cleanly and that they don't shift during weeding or pressing.

Also, remember to look for pressing instructions for layering vinyl. Usually, the lower layers only need to be tacked(eg. 5 seconds) and the final layer needs the full press time(eg. 20 seconds). This will reduce your production time.
 
I don't know why vinyl is getting such a bad rap. A good vinyl application will last longer than just about any print method, and good vinyl, while it has a hand, is not much worse than thicker screen printing.

Yes, you're limited in what you can do with it unless you have a solvent printer, but as far as "quality" goes, I consider it one of the best printing methods for low-volume orders.

I'm calling quality the amount of time that your "print" will last. Mark has shirts that he pressed over 10 years ago that the vinyl looks like new, while the shirt is starting to fall apart.

I'm not saying that vinyl is for everything, but for certain things it's one of the best printing methods (again, for low-volume orders).
 
I'm calling quality the amount of time that your "print" will last. Mark has shirts that he pressed over 10 years ago that the vinyl looks like new, while the shirt is starting to fall apart.

I'm not saying that vinyl is for everything, but for certain things it's one of the best printing methods (again, for low-volume orders).
Like Chani said, I have a shirt the I got second hand 10 years ago (so who knows how old it really is). The vinyl is still in original condition while the shirt is showing wear. Although the shirt isn't fancy, I wear it regularly to demonstrate the supreme durability you can expect from this method.

Chani, if your vinyl has a hand as thick as heavy silk screen, you might want to check out some other suppliers ... or other products by your current supplier. Good vinyl is much lighter than silkscreen.

I think we've forgotten to mention, vinyl is one of the best durable options for personalization. A team with a different name and number on each shirt is a breeze for vinyl because there is no setup equipment. No physical templates. It is 100% digitally driven. Resizing your art for front vs back is no issue. And doing the same shirt in a different colour for everyone is also do-able.

And vinyl can be applied to anything heat safe - so you can do can insulators, bags, blankets, hats. It presses really well on neoprene as well as traditional fabrics which broadens your product range.
 
I love vinyl and use it alot for small runs with simple designs or just letters. It is quick, easy, durable and looks great on any color shirt!

And if you dare to expand beyond garment vinyl (i.e sign vinyl) into other substrates...you can customize just about anything!!! We are opening a completely seperate store (next to our current store) for customized non-garment items which will feature alot of vinyl!! We love our Roland GX24!!! :D
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
After a re-read to find negativity about vinyl in this thread, I'm left with the impression vinyl is highlighted more than any other printing method, and highly regarded in posts as a durable and versitile option of printing, which is good since I just got that cutter. :)

I hope everyone realizes, all comments on printing methods and experiences with them, the good and the bad, are appreciated in this thread. Not everyone is going to share exactly the same views, but all views, when read collectively, are a huge advantage for anyone deciding to enter into a new printing method. For nothing is allll good, and nothing is allll bad, but allll information is helpful. Have a great day, and thanks for all the contributions to this thread. :)
 
If you want to hear the 'bad' of vinyl, I would have to say time consuming. Heat pressing is probably similar for all media, so the time will be from weeding and art design.
The art takes a while to get used to. I use Corel for our other vector art, but vinyl is a bit different. You need to unify the layers so you only get cuts around the outside and not through the middle of your art. Corel is not always thinking the same way I am when it comes to merging layers. Simple tricks like switching the order of your layers, welding individual layers before you weld multiple layers together (which can only be done from the menu) and cutting your non-cooperative pieces out of a square and discarding the unwanted areas can help. But no trick works well on every piece of art, so you have work and re-work many pieces.
 
If you want to hear the 'bad' of vinyl, I would have to say time consuming. Heat pressing is probably similar for all media, so the time will be from weeding and art design.
The art takes a while to get used to. I use Corel for our other vector art, but vinyl is a bit different. You need to unify the layers so you only get cuts around the outside and not through the middle of your art. Corel is not always thinking the same way I am when it comes to merging layers. Simple tricks like switching the order of your layers, welding individual layers before you weld multiple layers together (which can only be done from the menu) and cutting your non-cooperative pieces out of a square and discarding the unwanted areas can help. But no trick works well on every piece of art, so you have work and re-work many pieces.
Is "weld" the same as "flatten" in PS ??
 
PhotoShop is not a vector art program, so it is not the same, but similar.
If you had a circle in one layer and a square in another, it would attach these to make one new shape. The new shape would have only one set of attributes.. all the same colour and outline style.
In Photoshop, if you flattened, the layers would become one, but if one original layer was blue and one layer was red, your new merged layer would be red & blue respectively. You would still be able to tell that it was 2 shapes originally, instead of just one funny looking shape.
When doing vinyl, you need a vector program such as Corel or Illustrator. Or anything that handles .eps files. We chose Corel because that is what our laser required.
 
PhotoShop is not a vector art program, so it is not the same, but similar.
If you had a circle in one layer and a square in another, it would attach these to make one new shape. The new shape would have only one set of attributes.. all the same colour and outline style.
In Photoshop, if you flattened, the layers would become one, but if one original layer was blue and one layer was red, your new merged layer would be red & blue respectively. You would still be able to tell that it was 2 shapes originally, instead of just one funny looking shape.
When doing vinyl, you need a vector program such as Corel or Illustrator. Or anything that handles .eps files. We chose Corel because that is what our laser required.
THANKS!

I see!

I do have Corel X3...but need to learn how to use it!!.... and learn how to use my Graphtec ce5000-60!!!:eek:
 
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