you are ok to p/f/p the underbase for a bright white. the down side is it creates a heavier print. This is the reason i personally prefer to use an underbase and a topwhite.

 

I would also look in to Maxopaque inks. I've been using Union Inks and they have worked well for most colors. With Maroon being a dark color I don't see why you would need a base

 

Hey Everyone,

Had a quick question, Im printing a 2 color design that will be white and marron on a charcoal tee and know that i will need an underbase, My question is Can i make 1 screeen as an underbase and my white and just Print/Flash/Print the white color and then Print the maroon color over or do i need a screen for the underprint white and a second screen for the white print?

Thanks for all your help

I don't know how many stations your press has, but I would use 2 screens if was going to print more than one round of shirts. screen will need to be cleaned real good to do what your talking about. If something happens and you have to switch from maroon back to white, you will need to clean screen 100% and you are much more likely to have a misprint messing around with this. I could burn and tape another screen as fast as I could clean the screen 100% twice Add on... I think I misread your post. I thought you were asking If you can print white and maroon with 1 screen instead of 2. are you asking if you can print it with 2 instead of 3? I also would use maxo maroon without underbase and white. If it was a brighter color, the underprint, color, and the white bump as mentioned.

 

All you need is 2 screens. One for the maroon and one for the white areas that are going to be seen by the eye. If it is just maroon showing then all you need is one screen. Only way you would need to underlay the white first is if you want a very bright thin layer of maroon.

 

With that method, will it be noticeably thicker where the maroon is? I assume you'd need a thinner layer with the white underbase but pfp, then a maroon over some of the design...that's 3 strokes in some areas. Just curious how the thickness and the hand would be on that.

 

To answer your question, "Yes". I would pfp white and hit once with second color. No sense in pfp both colors.

 

We use the same method as krikster, all the time; using higher mesh count is key here. We generally go with a 200 or 255 for the white, and 255 or 300 for the second color. You need just a light skim of the second color over the white.

 

yea same here, 230 mesh for the white/underbase and same for the color, 2 screens is all it takes, I do it all the time.

or if you can use a opaque ink (not allot of color choices) you can do it without a underbase. I'll do this when I can find the right color and don't want to mess with registration of the underbase and top color, only downfall for me is I print/flash/print my white and then have to print/flash/print my color. With a underbase its only print/flash/print my underbase and a pull or two for the color, a little less "work"....

 

I have found that using a good white underbase with a higher mesh count really boosts top color vibrancy. Flash it just right, not too hot, and tweak your squeegee pressure for a smoother print.