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DTF - Hype versus Reality (do your own testing advised).

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13K views 73 replies 16 participants last post by  TABOB  
#1 · (Edited)
I'm a bit tired of people asking me about DTF, so I decided to create this post.
This way I don't have to repeat myself all the time.

Question 1: Is DTF any good?
Obviously quality would depend where you are getting your transfers from.
If you are printing the transfers yourself, quality would depend on the process and the quality and compatibility of the supplies you are using.
Unfortunately, from what I've seen and tested so far, DTF is not better than other transfers, and in some cases the reverse is true.

Question 2: Is DTF better than laser/white toner transfers?
I would say these two transfer methods are comparable, but again this will depend on the supplies used.
Laser printer transfers have the advantage of better consistency (Less things can go wrong).
For people printing their own transfers, laser printers are also easier to maintain.
Personally, I don't use either method for garments I sell.

Question 3: Is DTF better than HTV (vinyl)?
Again, it depends on what vinyl we are talking about.
From what I've seen so far, some HTVs are by far superior to DTF.
Some HTV transfers can be washed hot (60°C and in some cases up to 90°C), and without any special wash instructions.
With the right combination of ink and adhesive, DTF transfers with similar durability are probably possible, but so far I've not seen anybody producing them.

Recently I've noticed some Chinese companies promoting UV ink printers as DTF.
The transfers produced by these printers are obviously not DTF, but they do look durable (I have not had the chance to test their durability yet).
They are very thick and do not stretch, so they will only be a good option for some applications, like small logos and similar.
They are pretty much the same to what is known as UV-DTF for hard surfaces, but they have a hot-melt adhesive layer instead of a pressure-sensitive adhesive, and this way they can be heat-pressed onto garments.


DTF wash instructions (various sources):
Pretty much all DTF suppliers claim that DTF transfers are super durable but their "wash instructions" indicate otherwise.
Most people keep the wash instructions short and ambiguous, but here are two lengthy examples.
Do you think people find such wash instructions reasonable?

Cobraflex wash instructions (link):
In order to get the best wash results of your no powder DTF or powder transfer prints and apparel we recommend turning your garments inside out before you wash.
Wash using cold water.
Please use a gentle wash soap.
Wash on the most gentle setting and also set your washing for the least amount of time. DO NOT ADD BLEACH EVER !
For best drying results we recommend to air dry or cool only.
Do not dry in direct sunlight to prevent fading of the print or garment.
Drying your garments with NO heat or low heat will provide the most longevity to your print. when ironing your garment make sure it is reversed inside out.

Using these methods we have accomplished
45 to 50 washes on cotton
65 plus washes on polyester

Using hard water conditions not flipping inside out
12 to 14 washes on cotton

PolyPrint wash instructions (link):
All fabrics produced with the use of DTG and DTF technologies require gentle handling as far as it concerns washing, drying and ironing. The print is sensitive towards harsh conditions such as high temperature and high rpm washing cycles, meaning that the colors will fade, the inks will crack and even peel off. Thus, in order to expand its life, the suggested washing guidelines must be followed.

Try not to overload the washing machine with garments. The recommended number of garments per wash range from 10-15, depending on the thickness and weight of the fabrics. When washing your fabrics remember to always turn them inside out. This will protect the printed design from the abrasion caused between the fabrics during the washing cycles and the additional direct contact with the machine’s drum walls.
Another important parameter would be the detergent type. It is recommended that you should use liquid detergent instead of powder detergent. The granules in powder detergent add to the rubbing and straining of the fibers in the textile, while the print is also suffering. The use of softener is a tricky subject, as in a lot of cases, it causes peeling of the print. Meanwhile, it builds up in the fibers making it harder for water and detergent to permeate the fabric, so odors and stains are more difficult to get out and become sealed in. The rule of thumb is to not use any fabric softener, but If you insist on adding one, make sure that its quantity is small.

Choose washing in low temperatures, about 30-40 oC (86-104 F) or even at a cold wash and use medium washing cycles (600-800 rpm). In addition, washing programs of smaller times (30 min to 1 h) are suggested.
Avoid washing the garments again right after washing them. Don’t place the already washed wet t-shirts for a second wash cycle as soon as you take them out. The fibers when wet are more eager to stretch and thus more sensitive to breaking.
After washing the fabrics, air dry them. The use of a tumble dryer is not suggested, as the high temperatures can have an impact on the print. Keep the t-shirts turned inside out (the print’s side on the inside) when they are exposed to the sun. Sunlight affects the vibrancy of the print and causes fading of the color due to photodegradation.
EDIT (Aug 10 2024):
Durable DTF transfers are possible... BUT it's not what you think.
It's just the usual case of using a generic term, for a "similar" product with a very different composition.
Just like products called "Enamel" or Vinyl", DTF does not have a specific composition or method of production.
I've already mentioned the UV ink method, but the definition (Digital Transfer film) covers pretty much any digitaly printed transfer.
 
#48 ·
Coming back with some results about flock:

Washed it 10 times now, no color degrading, it doesnt peel off.

Only downside i see right now, everytime you wash it, there is tiny particles from other clothes that stick to it. But if you use a lint roller is fine.

Washed it at 40 degrees celsius normal, not inside out.

The test continues as i want to see how much does it truly last. I always do this test before selling it to customers.
 
#50 ·
Hey, I get it — DTF is one of those topics that sparks a ton of questions lately, and not all answers out there are very clear or based on real production experience.

I’ve been in the decorated apparel world for a while (screen print, HTV, sublimation, white toner, you name it), and I’ve been running DTF in-house for over 2 years. Here's my honest breakdown:


Is DTF any good?
Short answer: It can be excellent — but like any method, results depend on where you're getting your transfers or how you’re making them.

If you’re buying cheap film and powder from AliExpress and trying to run it on a poorly calibrated setup, it won’t look or last great. But with the right inks, film, adhesive, and curing process, DTF gives vibrant, soft, long-lasting prints that rival screen printing in durability. I’ve personally tested washes at 140°F and even high-heat tumble with zero cracking or fading after 50+ washes.


DTF vs. White Toner Transfers?
White toner can be a decent method, especially for hard surfaces or quick one-offs. But for apparel, DTF has the edge in stretch, color accuracy, and feel. White toner prints often feel stiffer and can crack or flake. Maintenance is easier with white toner, yes — but you're trading that for a lower-end finish, in my opinion.


DTF vs. HTV?
If you're doing names and numbers, HTV is still king. Super reliable and easy to layer. But when you want full-color, photo-quality, or you're tired of weeding, DTF takes the win. HTV can’t compete when it comes to printing gradients, shading, or detailed designs. And if you’re scaling up production, DTF saves major time.


Durability & Washability?
People bash DTF for not lasting, but that usually comes down to cheap materials or improper curing. Good DTF transfers hold up great. The reason most sellers include overly cautious wash instructions is because they’re using lower-quality film and powders that don't bond well.


What about those UV-DTF “garment” prints from overseas?
Just to be clear — that’s not DTF. It’s UV printing with a thermal adhesive slapped on the back. It’s thick, doesn’t stretch, and cracks under stress. Good for mugs or packaging. Not for t-shirts.


Bottom line: DTF isn’t perfect, but it’s a legit print method when done right. It’s not a replacement for everything, but it solves a lot of problems for decorators — especially those doing custom or small-batch runs.

Happy to answer questions or show sample results if anyone’s interested!
 
#51 · (Edited)
DTF gives vibrant, soft, long-lasting prints that rival screen printing in durability.
If that were true... no one would do screen-printing.

I’ve been in the decorated apparel world for a while (screen print, HTV, sublimation, white toner, you name it)
I’ve personally tested washes at 140°F and even high-heat tumble with zero cracking or fading after 50+ washes.
Do a forum search, and you will find posts claiming 50+ washes for laser toner transfers as well.
As usual... new user, unverified claim for "50+ washes" :rolleyes:

If you're doing names and numbers, HTV is still king. Super reliable and easy to layer. But when you want full-color, photo-quality, or you're tired of weeding, DTF takes the win. HTV can’t compete when it comes to printing gradients, shading, or detailed designs. And if you’re scaling up production, DTF saves major time.
Let's just pretend that printable HTV does not exist?:unsure:
DTF itself is basically printable HTV, but without the weeding part (Color Layer + White layer + Adhesive Layer).
When designs are easy to weed, which is actually fairly common, printable HTV is in my opinion a better and more reliable option.
 
#52 ·
Just to be clear... DTF does have it's place but it is over-hyped by exaggerated claims.

The reality is that DTF, HTV, and laser toner transfers are all "film" aka "vinyl" type transfers.
They are basically dry ink films getting hot-glued on top of the fabric.

DTF is not like screen-printing, sublimation, or DTG, where the ink itself goes into the fabric.
 
#53 ·
Hey Bob, you’re absolutely right that all these methods—DTF, HTV, and laser toner—have their pros and cons, and none are truly one-size-fits-all.


Oh man, I could go on for days on this subject. I actually just bought out all the vinyl from Craftables’ auction here in the U.S. — over 400 jumbo rolls of HTV in every flavor imaginable. I thought, “Crafters are going to love this!” But here’s the truth: nobody wants to cut and weed anymore. Too much work, too little time. I ended up just using it in my physical store for walk-in customers who still want to DIY.


Meanwhile, I also sell DTF transfers, and from what I’ve seen, DTF shines for people who want quick, full-color prints with minimal effort. Especially for gang sheets, team orders, or Etsy sellers — it just saves time.


That said, printable HTV still has its place, especially for people with solvent printers or those doing one-offs with specific materials. I totally agree that it can be more predictable and durable for certain garments, especially stretch fabrics.


At the end of the day, DTF isn’t magic — just another tool in the toolbox. If you're dialed in with good film, adhesive, and pressure, it can be impressive. But you're spot-on: it’s not sublimation or screen print, and it shouldn't be hyped as something it’s not.


Appreciate the thoughtful convo. Love seeing real experiences being shared. 👊
 
#54 ·
But here’s the truth: nobody wants to cut and weed anymore.
It depends on the type of weeding, because many designs are super easy to weed.
Also for metallic, glitter, puff, and much more, weeding HTV is still the best option.

Meanwhile, I also sell DTF transfers, and from what I’ve seen, DTF shines for people who want quick, full-color prints with minimal effort.
This is exactly why doing both HTV and DTF is the best option.
Ordering DTF transfers is slow, and printing your own is difficult.
BUT, you can use HTV for the easy to weed jobs, and order DTF transfers for the rest.
The best of both worlds, and without having to deal with the headaches DTF printing.

At the end of the day, DTF isn’t magic — just another tool in the toolbox. If you're dialed in with good film, adhesive, and pressure, it can be impressive. But you're spot-on: it’s not sublimation or screen print, and it shouldn't be hyped as something it’s not.
A very reasonable statement...
DTF influencers however are saying the opposite. o_O
 
#55 ·
This is exactly why doing both HTV and DTF is the best option.
Ordering DTF transfers is slow, and printing your own is difficult.
BUT, you can use HTV for the easy to weed jobs, and order DTF transfers for the rest.
The best of both worlds, and without having to deal with the headaches DTF printing.
Bob, If you're making DTF for garments do you also have a sell tranfers arm to businesses please?

Not "asking for a friend" but for myself as a UK based person who knows how to club a DTF image together but has no intention of ever buying a machine.
 
#60 ·
EDIT: 29 June 2025
My sister just showed me this DTG vs DTF video from printful.
Again... Kudos to printful for being reasonably honest and showing the limitations of their printing methods.
As I've been saying DTF is basically the same as HTV and will crack, but I'm actually surprized the sample crack after just 5 washes.

These cracks are not too bad at this stage, but even the thicker areas will crack after 20-25 washes.
I think printful will not dare showing the shirt after 25 washes, and I don't blame them, because they have to stay competitive against less honest POD companies.
[/QUOTE]

The dtf shirt was obviously not double pressed, this makes a huge difference.
 
#67 · (Edited)
Very few follow the washing instructions including me. Not sure how much effect it has one way or the other.
Not much... but DTF will survive 10-15 normal washes.
People are unlikely to complain after that, even if they never see the wash instructions.
The same apply to many other transfer methods by the way.

If you want to establish a brand however, which is what everyone should be doing in my opinion, you should stay away from transfers.
People will notice when a shirt bought 5 or even 20 years ago still looks good.
 
#68 ·
DTF gives vibrant, soft, long-lasting prints that rival screen printing in durability.
If that were true... no one would do screen-printing.
Setting aside whether it's true or not, the claim that if it were true no one would screen print makes no sense. Even if a DTF print was just as good as a screen print, screen printing e.g. a 72 pc three color full front 11"x16" print would be much cheaper to produce than DTF'ing them. Even setting aside the $2 or more PER SHIRT print direct cost difference of ink vs film, at some point the total labor time per shirt becomes less in screen printing (total time including printing seps, burning and reclaiming, and time on press). So less time per shirt and less material cost per shirt.
 
#69 ·
Even if a DTF print was just as good as a screen print, screen printing e.g. a 72 pc three color full front 11"x16" print would be much cheaper to produce than DTF'ing them. Even setting aside the $2 or more PER SHIRT print direct cost difference of ink vs film, at some point the total labor time per shirt becomes less in screen printing (total time including printing seps, burning and reclaiming, and time on press). So less time per shirt and less material cost per shirt.
DTF is definitely not as good as screen-printing.
As an example, would you cannot really DTF all-over-prints. They will just don't look or feel right.
DTF is not as durable as screen printing either, for the same reason plastisol transfers are not as durable.

Having said that, and as I keep repeating... DTF does have its place.
The hype, the deception, and the silly claims is what I have a problem with.
Also, personally, I'd rather have a DTG printed tee... especially if white (no white ink used).
 
#71 ·
I had looked at a few articles from this year talking about the "true cost" of in-house dtf printing, including film, ink, powder and equipment and they were between $1 and $2 for roughly a 1 foot square print, and this hypothetical is bigger than that. But maybe I should've said $1 more instead of $2. They seem to be in agreement that the cost of the DTF ink is more than the cost of the film fwiw.
 
#73 ·
We obviously have very different clients, if we sold shirts at $35 we wouldn't be in business very long.
I had looked at a few articles from this year talking about the "true cost" of in-house dtf printing, including film, ink, powder and equipment and they were between $1 and $2 for roughly a 1 foot square print, and this hypothetical is bigger than that. But maybe I should've said $1 more instead of $2. They seem to be in agreement that the cost of the DTF ink is more than the cost of the film fwiw.
Ink cost ÂŁ18 per litre, roughly 2 litres per roll, makes materials around 15p per square foot. Obviously more to add for time, electric etc.
For small-ish runs I can have 100 shirts, from email of artwork, printed and packed in about 2 hours.