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-   -   WB overprint coverage issue (https://www.t-shirtforums.com/water-based-ink-screen-printing/t879409.html)

ryangobie September 2nd, 2019 01:40 PM

WB overprint coverage issue
 
1 Attachment(s)
Hello, been trying to expand beyond just discharging garments. Recently acquired a flash in order to do some under basing and flashing between colors if needed. Been having trouble with overprints on a white under base where there are many tiny dots of the under base showing through. No matter how many times I pull ink through they remain. I thought perhaps I was running into a compatibility issue so I've tried numerous inks for either the under base or overprint with much the same result These include Matsui 301 opaque white, Aquo, Permaset, and Ryonet comet white. The overprint I've tried Ryonet's Red, pigmented MatsuiSemi Opaque base and Permaset. I thought perhaps it was my flashing, water evaporating through the overprint so I've tried varying the both the heat and time under the flash, trying very deliberately to over flash and under where ink still pulls up on my finger with little change in results. The overprint was done with a 158 mesh count and the under base is a 110. Both had between 1/8 - 3/16" off contact. The attached image shows the issue. Thank you.

tazman19 October 5th, 2019 06:36 AM

Re: WB overprint coverage issue
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by ryangobie (Post 4443877)
Hello, been trying to expand beyond just discharging garments. Recently acquired a flash in order to do some under basing and flashing between colors if needed. Been having trouble with overprints on a white under base where there are many tiny dots of the under base showing through. No matter how many times I pull ink through they remain. I thought perhaps I was running into a compatibility issue so I've tried numerous inks for either the under base or overprint with much the same result These include Matsui 301 opaque white, Aquo, Permaset, and Ryonet comet white. The overprint I've tried Ryonet's Red, pigmented MatsuiSemi Opaque base and Permaset. I thought perhaps it was my flashing, water evaporating through the overprint so I've tried varying the both the heat and time under the flash, trying very deliberately to over flash and under where ink still pulls up on my finger with little change in results. The overprint was done with a 158 mesh count and the under base is a 110. Both had between 1/8 - 3/16" off contact. The attached image shows the issue. Thank you.

I have been using strictly permaset inks for some time now and occasionally encounter the same issue. First of when printing water base inks there should be no off contact and the flash cure needs to be on little longer where you get no ink coming off on your fingers when touched then you should be ok to print your over print if you still get white dots try flashing the overprint and hit it again with overprint hope this helps.Ohh By the way how do you like the aquos inks?

NoXid October 5th, 2019 05:24 PM

Re: WB overprint coverage issue
 
If you used Permaset SuperCover for the red, you wouldn't need an underbase (which is what I use).

But, yes, you should be able to over-print and get good results. I've done it in the past with both Green galaxy and Permaset.

I would (and do) use higher mesh count for everything than you are, like 180/200. On bare naked fabric with higher mesh count, hit it twice to get an even light coat, then flash (no flash until you've got an even light coat). Then print/flash print as needed to obtain the opacity or "pop" that you want. It is more work, but allows greater control over the quality of the print.

Many say to run zero off contact. I generally run about 1/8" with SuperCover, as it is very thick and acts a bit more like Plastisol going down. For typical runnier/thinner water base inks, zero off contact is probably best.

Note, might want to take a close (magnifying glass) look at your top coat screen. If you flashed the underbase just enough to get it tacky, it might have partially plugged/blocked-up your top-coat screen when you laid it down. This is especially easy to do when using Comet White, as it gets sticky when hot. That is the only issue I've ever had with underbasing/top-coating. If the pattern of dots always looks the same, that is probably your issue.


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