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does anyone use AMEX waterbased ink?

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Old September 14th, 2018 Sep 14, 2018 5:55:03 AM -   #1 (permalink)
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Exclamation does anyone use AMEX waterbased ink?

Hi everyone,

I just wanted to know if anyone has any experience with using AMEX waterbased ink? It is very thick and I just assumed that it would be more of a runny consistency. So far, I haven't had any successful prints and I wondered where I was going wrong. I am using a 43t (110) mesh. I do a pull flood and push stroke and have off contact whilst printing. The ink seems to be far too thick in some places and sometimes there is bleeding. I seem to struggle to clear the screen so I have to do another push stroke. What am I doing wrong? Is there something I'm missing?

Any help would be much appreciated!
 
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Old September 14th, 2018 Sep 14, 2018 8:00:41 PM -   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: does anyone use AMEX waterbased ink?

I assume this is a fully opaque ink? Probably white? Those will be much thicker than a waterbase black.

I have not used AMEX, but I use a Permaset Aqua SuperCover, which is a line of opaque waterbase inks. They are thick, especially the white. Learning how to work with this ink gave me pains at first, but now there is nothing to it.

The first lesson of using waterbase ink is to keep your used/working ink in its own container. Add fresh ink to it as needed from the pure unadulterated original container. This is because every time you put ink out on a screen, it loses moisture to the emulsion and to the air, and it loses a lot more than you probably think it does. Having the untouched ink separate from your working ink makes it easy to compare and know that you need to add fluids to your working ink. Check with AMEX to see what to add; water works fine for Permaset (use distilled, not tap).

A low mesh screen is much less forgiving than a somewhat higher mesh screen. I'm in the USA, so will use our numbering, as I don't know the other system off hand. I use 200 mesh. For white ink on a black shirt that I really want to pop, that involves:

wet stroke, dry stroke
wet stroke, dry stroke
check that coverage is more or less even, but still light
flash
wet stroke, dry stroke
flash
wet stroke, dry stroke
flash

For a less bright white, skip the last set. For most other colors, you can stop after the second flash (thick opaque inks, no underbase).

The Dry Stroke ensures that the screen is cleared and that the ink gets pressed into the fabric. Else, raising the screen with ink residue in the mesh will cause it to get pulled through onto the shirt in a gloppy, blobby manner. With great technique, perfectly conditioned ink, a smooth surfaced 100% ringspun cotton shirt, and the blessing of various deities, that would produce a great print. But one, or many, of those things can go missing without notice, so I have persisted in the habit of the dry stroke, as every time I think I don't need it any more and things go along fine without ... I eventually end up with a FUBAR shirt that would have been saved by the dry stroke.

200 may be higher than needed, or than you want to bother with, but 110 is, in my opinion, too low and unforgiving. You will probably print fine on a 160, once you get the hang of it, but starting with 180 / 200 might get you there faster.

Sum up:

- Ensure that you are replacing moisture loss and maintaining the viscosity of the ink.

- Use a higher mesh so you can lay down less ink at a time but with more passes.

- Follow your wet stroke with a dry stroke to ensure the screen is cleared before raising the screen to flood again.
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Old September 15th, 2018 Sep 15, 2018 3:29:00 AM -   #3 (permalink)
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Hi, thank you very much for your detailed reply which had a lot of useful information. I will try some of your tips and see if I get a better result. Wish me luck!
 
 
Old December 1st, 2018 Dec 1, 2018 8:29:43 AM -   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: does anyone use AMEX waterbased ink?

Hey, I have used that amex ink, it is quite a bummer! They do actually sell a retarder you can mix in that makes it a little easier to use and gives it a creamier consistency. I found best results from pulling the ink, rather than pushing it, and having a little retarder in it, my off contact was about 2 pennies high. Saying that, I just don't like the stuff and have went back to permaset supercover which is just nicer to use!
 






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