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Discuss water base and discharge screen printing inks and curing methods. Share tips on getting the best results with the different ink manufacturers.



Curing Permaset supercover

 
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Old August 16th, 2016 Aug 16, 2016 1:41:56 PM -   #16 (permalink)
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Default Re: Curing Permaset supercover

I've been using supercover inks for a couple of years with no problems. I flash cure with a hairdryer and then a final cure with a heat press.
I don't use a heat gun due to potentially scorching the t shirt.
Generally I give 3-4 pulls of ink. I then put it under the heat press without clamping it down while I print another T shirt. This allows me an even amount of heat and then I clamp the press down at 180 degrees Celsius for 3 minutes.
The ink itself has to reach 160 degrees Celsius to cure. Use an infrared thermometer to ensure the ink reaches that temperature.
It can be stretched to any extent without it cracking and washes perfectly.
 
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Old August 16th, 2016 Aug 16, 2016 6:33:43 PM -   #17 (permalink)
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Default Re: Curing Permaset supercover

Quote:
Originally Posted by katext
Today i tested speedball red ink on a grey t-shirt. It worked perfectly. Every fiber in the t-shirt was colored and it is impossible to feel the ink with your hand when touching it. It is impossible to crack the ink by stretchig it. I washed it immediately and it still looked nice. I did same test with a black t-shirt, it didn't cover very good and the red went very dark. I am surprised that there is no ink that easily can color the fibers in the garment no matter what color. Permaset supercover looks very nice until i stretch or wash the t-shirt, and i never put a thick layer of ink because i want the structure from the garment to show. I'm disapointed and out of ideas how to go further whith permaset because before stretch & wash it looks really nice on any color of the shirt. On a t-shirt with minimum stretchability it might work. I tried permaset without "glow" there wasn't a big difference. Do your prints with permaset feel soft or hard?
The red you used was a normal opacity ink. Those only look right on white (or very light colored) shirts, or when printed over the top of a white underbase. Supercover colors are opaque so they do not require an underbase.

From what you said previously, it sounds like it is way too thick. Without any doubt, there is something very wrong with your ink.

Permaset Supercover prints great on American Apparel 2001, Hanes Beefy-T, Bella 1x1 baby rib tank tops! Stretch is not an issue!

Prints feel soft and flexible. That said, opaque waterbased ink does have more feel and body to it than translucent waterbased (normal waterbased). Not as much feel as Plastisol, nor as much of a coat over the surface.

If you are printing on black you have only 3 choices: 1. An opaque white underbase overprinted with regular opacity ink of the desired color; 2. An opaque ink that is the desired color; 3. Discharge ink that eats the dye out of the garment (only works on 100% cotton and certain dyes).

Discharge printing is the only way to print on dark garments and get zero hand feel. All other methods require an opaque ink, and all opaque inks have more hand feel than regular ink.

Your ink froze, is way too dried out, is too old, has gotten too hot, has been growing mold (it happens), or is really alien spooge in a jar Get fresh ink.
 
Old August 16th, 2016 Aug 16, 2016 7:01:19 PM -   #18 (permalink)
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I agree that something happened tp your ink, too. It should be fluffy and thick but easily spreadable and easy to stir. It shouldn't be difficult at all to get it out of the container. I've not had issues with supercover (or the regular Permaset Aqua) until this most recent experience with the glow, which I think is more user error on my part than anything else (getting used to a conveyor dryer instead of a heat press to cure). I've had only great experiences with supercover & aqua up to this point. I've had many experiences of Speedball washing out of shirts after a few washes even after being fully cured, but none with Permaset.

Wishing you good luck!
 
 
Old August 17th, 2016 Aug 17, 2016 10:54:02 AM -   #19 (permalink)
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Default Re: Curing Permaset supercover

Me again. I made a new test today with permaset supercover mid red (not glow) on a dark blue shirt. I increased the temp to 180C° 5x15s (i think i have tried that temp 3 min and it made a white shirt a little braun.)
It was a success i washed it really ruff by hand, stretced it, no problem at all this time. Cant believe its true. About the glow ink i think nothing but water can be missing so i will try to make it smooth like the red ink i just used and the same temp and time. Thank you all for fantastic support, i would have give up long ago without you.

Last edited by katext; August 17th, 2016 at 11:02 AM..
 
Old August 17th, 2016 Aug 17, 2016 10:55:49 AM -   #20 (permalink)
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It's a great product! Wahoooooo for you for figuring it out!! Happy printing!
 
Old August 18th, 2016 Aug 18, 2016 4:34:10 AM -   #21 (permalink)
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Default Re: Curing Permaset supercover

It's not a good idea to add just water to waterbase ink, you will alter the PH value & this can cause curing problems. I've never been a fan of Permaset Opaque ink, it's not a stretch ink so stretching it too far will certainely crack it, the same goes for a standard plastisol. The best waterbase opaque I've used is Manouikan, it's a bit dearer but well worth it as it has more stretch & doesn't dry out in the screen as easily. Waterbase ink can be hard to cure as it can't get past 100deg c until the water is removed, even if pressed at 160deg c, it won't reach that if there's water in the ink, the ink has to be dried thoroughly before heat pressing.
 
Old August 18th, 2016 Aug 18, 2016 4:41:11 PM -   #22 (permalink)
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Default Re: Curing Permaset supercover

Quote:
Originally Posted by Printworksqld
It's not a good idea to add just water to waterbase ink, you will alter the PH value & this can cause curing problems. I've never been a fan of Permaset Opaque ink, it's not a stretch ink so stretching it too far will certainely crack it, the same goes for a standard plastisol. The best waterbase opaque I've used is Manouikan, it's a bit dearer but well worth it as it has more stretch & doesn't dry out in the screen as easily. Waterbase ink can be hard to cure as it can't get past 100deg c until the water is removed, even if pressed at 160deg c, it won't reach that if there's water in the ink, the ink has to be dried thoroughly before heat pressing.
Supercover is absorbed more by the fabric, so the spaces exposed when stretched tend to have ink in them; it does not just sit on top like Plastisol.

Ink needs to be flashed or air dried a bit before heat pressing, just so it isn't wet and makes a mess in your heat press. Then do a two stage cure with the press--so you open the press to vent steam then press again.

You add water when the water has gone missing, and some water goes missing every time you put ink out on a screen. He has good ink now to compare against the glow ink, so has a way to gauge how much moisture it is missing.

That said, there may well be something weird about this glow ink stuff ... I've never tried it. Don't add water to the whole container. Put a bit out in another container to experiment with, as it is easier to add water than to remove it!
 
Old February 21st, 2019 Feb 21, 2019 9:35:12 PM -   #23 (permalink)
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Default Re: Curing Permaset supercover

has anyone tried adding clear discharge base and agent to permaset before?
 
Old August 6th, 2019 Aug 6, 2019 4:42:01 AM -   #24 (permalink)
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Default Re: Curing Permaset supercover

After printed, I let the shirt air dry as long as possible, min 2 hours. Then I heat press them, 170 celsius, in about 20 sec. I always do a washtest, 40 celcius before deliver to customer, works for me.
 






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