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Permaset Ink (Drying on Screen)

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Old November 29th, 2015 Nov 29, 2015 12:51:44 PM -   #1 (permalink)
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Question Permaset Ink (Drying on Screen)

Hi everyone,

I'm having issues with the ink drying way too fast in my screen. I just exposed a beautiful screen with perfect wash out, post hardened and thought the entire thing was going beautifully, until the second print! As you can see from the photo, the second and then third print did not come out properly and it is because the ink is drying into the mesh during printing. It was no more than a minute between the three prints, only the time it takes to switch over the tshirts and secure onto the platen. I tried to keep the screen nicely flooded too.

So aside from buying a retarder and spraying with water (which I didn't do here), what else can I do? Should I water down my supercover ink?

I'm using Permaset White Supercover ink on 77T mesh.

I'm now soaking the screen in warm water with detergent because scrubbing it did not get the ink out of my screen and I really don't want to have to make a new one again.

Suggestions greatly appreciated! thank you
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Old November 29th, 2015 Nov 29, 2015 1:11:11 PM -   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: Permaset Ink (Drying on Screen)

Your mesh count is too high. I haven't used Permaset but was looking at their site yesterday and came across this post..

"Permatone - 43T to 120 T; Supercover - 32T to 64T - higher mesh tend to dry fast (90T) so not recommended in my opinion."
Old November 29th, 2015 Nov 29, 2015 1:21:01 PM -   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: Permaset Ink (Drying on Screen)

I am not an expert on waterbased ink , but 77t seems a bit high for Supercover white, especially if you are a beginner. For US readers that is about 190t/inch. Consider dropping to 62t (155t US). Don't discount using a retarder for waterbased ink - it doesn't have too much of an effect on the opacity if used in moderation.

Heat from a hot platen can cause wb to dry in the screen, and so can heat from the flash if you swing the screen over it when loading/unloading.
Old December 4th, 2015 Dec 4, 2015 10:42:37 PM -   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: Permaset Ink (Drying on Screen)

High opacity water based, white in particular because of the high pigment load, is a challenge to get the hang of. I've still got plenty of room for improvement on this myself, but I'm mostly satisfied with my results these days.

When I started, all I had was 156 screens. With SC white I found that I simultaneously got too much ink, but uneven coverage. I now use 200 mesh, zero off contact, a push stroke (45 degree angle). PorkChopHarry prints SC White with 180 mesh. Print/Flash/Print ... and maybe another Print if you really want it to pop. This results in an even print that isn't too heavy.

As to the drying. I have adopted PorkChop's idea of spraying some water on the screen and letting it set a few minutes, then wiping it off before printing. I add 5% polypropylene glycol to that water; it's a wetting agent, and an ingredient in many inks. Adding a bit of glycerine to the ink itself is also an option, but I wouldn't do that unless you have to work in really dry/hot conditions.

Using a more open screen might help. Or it might cause other problems, like it did for me. You'll have to see what works for you.

One thing for sure, you want to keep the time between prints as short as possible. Printing keeps the ink stirred up and keeps fresh ink moving through the mesh. I have a simple single platen press, and the only reason I consider upgrading to a multi-platen press is so I could pre-load the platens with shirts when printing white SC. In lieu of that, I have just gotten faster at loading shirts onto the platen. It is something one can just practice with a blank shirt until it is second nature.

Uhm, you need an ink degrader, like EnviroSolv, or whatever, to do a decent job of cleaning out SC. It's okay if the ink stains the emulsion a bit, so don't go crazy trying to get it spotless. Just don't want ink buildup in the open areas of mesh.
EDIT: From the Permaset site:
Q: I have heard you can mist the screen slightly with water to keep it moist in between shots. How does this work?

A: Misting the screens or rather the INK whilst printing is good practice. However, what will help you set up and through the course of the run is if you give the mesh fibres a drink before they start. Spray the image area liberally before starting. Allow ~10 minutes for the water to be absorbed into the micro-pores of the screen mesh, then wipe off excess moisture with a damp sponge or cloth. This will greatly reduce the propensity of the ink to dry in on the screen, a problem that is more acute the finer the mesh you use. Then, if you keep the ink topped up with a quick mist every few prints, that will keep you printing with much fewer interruptions.

Q: I find that the ink dries quickly when its warm and I'm wondering if there's a medium I can mix in with the textile ink?

A: If you leave the image area flooded between prints, that should be a BIG help. If you are still having problems, add 1-3% of Permaset Retarder G.

Their retarder is essentially glycerine. I read the MSDS and just bought glycerine locally.

Last edited by NoXid; December 4th, 2015 at 11:19 PM..

This is a discussion about Permaset Ink (Drying on Screen) that was posted in the Water Based Ink Screen Printing section of the forums.

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