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[GREAT BRITAIN - UK] - Help with Gildans, is it good for fashion?

 
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Old May 6th, 2009 May 6, 2009 12:16:08 AM -   #16 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help with Gildans, is it good for fashion?

i got the AA shirts direct from AA, you need a company reg number to get an account with them.
I have never seen bbleisure stuff, looks nice on there site, what are the prices like ?
 
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Old May 6th, 2009 May 6, 2009 9:41:42 AM -   #17 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help with Gildans, is it good for fashion?

I had a customer who got their t-shirts from BBL and I thought they were one of the best I had seen, the hoodies were even better, very luxurious, very heavy and nice detail. The street hoodie from AWDIS are good, with hidden ipod pocket, headphone holes and those cuffs with a thumbhole.
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Old May 6th, 2009 May 6, 2009 11:19:35 AM -   #18 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help with Gildans, is it good for fashion?

I'm surprised that your customer accepts Gildan, AA, Next Level, etc. as a fashion tee.

For me, those t's are fine for license type printing but for fashion?

Most of my clients would never go near a T heavier than 30singles for their fashion lines!

John
 
 
Old May 6th, 2009 May 6, 2009 1:49:23 PM -   #19 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help with Gildans, is it good for fashion?

'heavier than 30singles'

lost me there, what does that mean?
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Old May 6th, 2009 May 6, 2009 3:47:00 PM -   #20 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help with Gildans, is it good for fashion?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Progeny
'heavier than 30singles'

lost me there, what does that mean?
30 singles refers to the yarn gauge they use to knit the fabric for the shirts.

Typically an hanes/Gildan type tubular shirt will be around 18 - 20 singles yarn.

The lighter gauge fabrics have a better drape then the heavier ones IMO!

John
 
Old May 6th, 2009 May 6, 2009 8:22:22 PM -   #21 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help with Gildans, is it good for fashion?

Quote:
Originally Posted by novanutcase
30 singles refers to the yarn gauge they use to knit the fabric for the shirts.

Typically an hanes/Gildan type tubular shirt will be around 18 - 20 singles yarn.

The lighter gauge fabrics have a better drape then the heavier ones IMO!

John
I'm confused...

customers won't go near a tee heavier than "30 singles" but hanes/gildan is 18-20...

is 18-20 heavier than 30 then? sorry I've never heard of the term "30 singles"

what kind of tees would you recommend?

EDIT: just found that Gildan do a "30 singles" shirt. it's called "Soft Style Ring Spun" and the code is 64000. just in case anyone is interested...

Last edited by neenaw; May 6th, 2009 at 09:11 PM..
 
Old May 6th, 2009 May 6, 2009 9:37:49 PM -   #22 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help with Gildans, is it good for fashion?

Quote:
Originally Posted by neenaw
I'm confused...

customers won't go near a tee heavier than "30 singles" but hanes/gildan is 18-20...

is 18-20 heavier than 30 then? sorry I've never heard of the term "30 singles"

what kind of tees would you recommend?

EDIT: just found that Gildan do a "30 singles" shirt. it's called "Soft Style Ring Spun" and the code is 64000. just in case anyone is interested...
The higher the number the thinner the gauge or....

The lighter the fabric. These fabrics tend to drape much better than the heavier fabrics which is why all of my customers like to use it.

Typically an 18 - 20 gauge fabric is knitted on a tubular machine, hence no side seams, but doesn't allow for tapering at the waist which is why custom tees fit better than tubular tees.

Gildan might use 30 single yarns but they're all import yarns. Are they actually 30 singles? Who knows. I've seen Gildan 30 singles that you would swear are 20's and some that you would swear are 40's. Most of the mass manufacturers import their yarns and fabric from India or Pakistan because of price. Unfortunately, quality control in these countries is not the best so a lot of times you get mixed lots of yarns/fabric. The knitting machine operator doesn't care. He just loads the spools on the machine. "

"Hey! it says 30 singles on the outside of the box!"

I've gotten shirts/fabric from overseas that had polyester threads running through the middle of the shirt that are supposed to be 100% cotton!

Not trying to bash India or Pakistan but I've gotten my fair share of containers with a special surprise inside!

Never again!! The cost difference is minimal when you compare the damage ratios you get with imports!

John
 
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Old May 6th, 2009 May 6, 2009 9:39:53 PM -   #23 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help with Gildans, is it good for fashion?

so what tees are good quality for fashion? what do you use?
 
Old May 6th, 2009 May 6, 2009 10:04:36 PM -   #24 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help with Gildans, is it good for fashion?

Quote:
Originally Posted by neenaw
so what tees are good quality for fashion? what do you use?
I cut and sew my own along with doing private label manufacturing for my clients. I have been in this business for the last 17 years. In those 17 years I've been able to filter out the bad knitting mills and the good knitting mills. I use a great one here in L.A. for my primary mill. They let me go out on the floor and verify the yarn lot. They knit the fabric for me.

I have an army of great sewing contractors. They do top quality work.

I have a lot of great dyehouses(I used to own one of the biggest here in L.A.). They dye my shirts to whatever color or process I request. Since I did development at my own dyehouse I can develop a lot of new types of dye and wash processes with them quickly since I understand how all the chemical and dye processes work. They like that.

I have great screenprinters. I have the dyehouse deliver the shirts along with a tech pack for the printer and they print it. I make one phone call to them prior to their putting the garments into production to see if they have any questions or if they feel the tech pack is inadequate. They print me a T.O.P.(Top Of Production) sample for approval. I approve and they print and finish my shirts ready to ship to the customer.

As of late I've been doing a lot of rhinestone applications. Since many of my friends work for large manufacturers I asked them to recommend a good rhinestone supplier. One name kept coming up! So far they've been great!!! Time will tell but they are VERY organized and have been able to accomodate whatever request I have.

At the end of it all I usually have a less than 2% damage ratio which is unheard of but since I am integrally involved at every aspect of the manufacturing I'm able to catch whatever issues there may be and nip them in the bud.

John
 
Old May 7th, 2009 May 7, 2009 2:12:36 AM -   #25 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help with Gildans, is it good for fashion?

Quote:Originally Posted by neenawso what tees are good quality for fashion? what do you use? I cut and sew my own along with doing private label manufacturing for my clients. I have been in this business for the last 17 years. In those 17 years I've been able to filter out the bad knitting mills and the good knitting mills. I use a great one here in L.A. for my primary mill. They let me go out on the floor and verify the yarn lot. They knit the fabric for me.

I have an army of great sewing contractors. They do top quality work.

I have a lot of great dyehouses(I used to own one of the biggest here in L.A.). They dye my shirts to whatever color or process I request. Since I did development at my own dyehouse I can develop a lot of new types of dye and wash processes with them quickly since I understand how all the chemical and dye processes work. They like that.

I have great screenprinters. I have the dyehouse deliver the shirts along with a tech pack for the printer and they print it. I make one phone call to them prior to their putting the garments into production to see if they have any questions or if they feel the tech pack is inadequate. They print me a T.O.P.(Top Of Production) sample for approval. I approve and they print and finish my shirts ready to ship to the customer.

As of late I've been doing a lot of rhinestone applications. Since many of my friends work for large manufacturers I asked them to recommend a good rhinestone supplier. One name kept coming up! So far they've been great!!! Time will tell but they are VERY organized and have been able to accomodate whatever request I have.

At the end of it all I usually have a less than 2% damage ratio which is unheard of but since I am integrally involved at every aspect of the manufacturing I'm able to catch whatever issues there may be and nip them in the bud.

John


Hello John

You definitely have alot of experience in t shirt making, but for someone like me thats just starting out and living in the UK the only options are AA, Gildans, hanes, continental
and personally i have not seen a fashion tee like sean john and phat farm that are light and not heavy, did not think pple will even go for them.

Sodrisc
the BB Leisurewear interlock has to be seen to be believed , the white i got is luxirious in every sense of the word, also smells luxirious, the white i got was 220gsm, they come in a pack of 10 even worked out cheaper than the Hanes of the same quantity.

Pls help i sent my tees with designs done in the A4 format to the local printer and he told me he does transfers and the sample i got from him was just the exact A4 paper pressed against the front of the shirt and i sent the files in the exact size i would want them on the tees. He says if i want it any bigger it will have to be A3 and the money would go up as well
Imagine an A4 paper that you print your design sample, now hold tha paper against your chest. you see what i mean?
 
Old May 7th, 2009 May 7, 2009 2:17:33 AM -   #26 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help with Gildans, is it good for fashion?

Quote:
Originally Posted by okelly

Pls help i sent my tees with designs done in the A4 format to the local printer and he told me he does transfers and the sample i got from him was just the exact A4 paper pressed against the front of the shirt and i sent the files in the exact size i would want them on the tees. He says if i want it any bigger it will have to be A3 and the money would go up as well
Imagine an A4 paper that you print your design sample, now hold tha paper against your chest. you see what i mean?
what is it you need help with?

@novanutcase - i've just done a bit of searching online and it seems quite a few successful tshirt companies use AA in partcular. tshirt hell even uses them and they're one of the best selling shirts on the net. they also use Hanes.

Last edited by neenaw; May 7th, 2009 at 02:55 AM..
 
Old May 7th, 2009 May 7, 2009 4:51:25 AM -   #27 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help with Gildans, is it good for fashion?

Kev, it sounds like he's just used transfer paper and yes that is what it is like, it's quite hard and stiff and can fade or crack after a few washes. I would never use this type of paper for retail, it'sok for one off events.

One way to get a decent tranfer larger than A4 is get it printed onto garment vinyl and then contour cut, you would need to find someone who has a versacamm or similar (have a look on xpres site, they do them). You could also contact someone like target transfers or ja-int for transfers.

The best print would be either screen printed or dtg if they have many colours or photos.
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Old May 7th, 2009 May 7, 2009 5:32:28 AM -   #28 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help with Gildans, is it good for fashion?

Quote:
Originally Posted by novanutcase
I'm surprised that your customer accepts Gildan, AA, Next Level, etc. as a fashion tee.

For me, those t's are fine for license type printing but for fashion?

Most of my clients would never go near a T heavier than 30singles for their fashion lines!

John
american apparel no good as a fashion tshirt ? hmmmmmm........ there are alot of good labels out there useing aa and continental that would seem to disagree with you.
 
Old May 7th, 2009 May 7, 2009 11:00:25 AM -   #29 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help with Gildans, is it good for fashion?

Quote:
Originally Posted by sodrisc
american apparel no good as a fashion tshirt ? hmmmmmm........ there are alot of good labels out there useing aa and continental that would seem to disagree with you.
I guess it depends on what their standards are in terms of what their customer is willing to accept. Maybe I'm a T-shirt snob but when I see an AA t-shirt I see all the flaws in it from fabrication to sewing to finishing. I've worked closely within their entire operation and have many friends that still work for them so I know how their processes are run. To the layman it may look fine but I guess that's what 17 years in this business will do to you! LOL!

My customers also use AA, Alternative, Next Level, etc. in some of their lower end or private label styles but for their premium styles that they are placing in their A stores they usually go to a guy like me.

Not knocking these companies they certainly have their place but I can say that a savvy buyer, especially one that buys for a large chain store, will be hesitant to pay a decent price for a shirt that they know is made on an AA shirt. They know what it costs to make an AA shirt and they know the quality.

John

Last edited by novanutcase; May 7th, 2009 at 11:05 AM..
 
Old May 7th, 2009 May 7, 2009 2:43:22 PM -   #30 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help with Gildans, is it good for fashion?

THANKS Lee
i will try those out. ONE more thing, about the price he gave me, he is charging me £7.50 for A4 prints and £12 if i want them to be A3. The price are expensive what price would you say is about right? And Lee do you do your printing yourself?

@John you said; your clients come to you for the premium stuff, but for someone living in the UK Ordering tees from you would be really really expensive and again it depends your on prices.
 






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