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Would this bulb work for an exposure unit?

1610 Views 11 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  outbreak
Low Voltage 20-Watt Black Flood Light-8301-9602-01 at The Home Depot

I want to build a 20x24 exposure box and I was curious if 4 of these would work?
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Do some reading on here. You'll definitely have to take the uv glass off the lights!!!
Low Voltage 20-Watt Black Flood Light-8301-9602-01 at The Home Depot

I want to build a 20x24 exposure box and I was curious if 4 of these would work?
These are not "black lights", they are lights with a black housing. At 20w 4 of them would take a long time to expose. Use a standard 500w halogen work light with the glass removed. Around 16" seams to work well. Then do a step wedge test to find your optimum exposure time. Good luck.
Those are nothing but a low watt halogen. As mentioned above get a 500 or even a 1000w work light take the glass off and you'll be better off with a single source light than multiple.
agreed with going for 500w halogens - those 20w lamps take a long time to burn and obviously you'd use more electricity and heat.
When I put mine together with 2 - 500W halogens, I put them side by side the long way. It's hard to explain why, but I figured if I put them the other way the light would "overlap" more and cause inconsistent screen exposures. Sure, there is light that "overlaps" in this, but I don't think it's as much or as intense. Keep in mind, this was just my "theory".

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When I put mine together with 2 - 500W halogens, I put them side by side the long way. It's hard to explain why, but I figured if I put them the other way the light would "overlap" more and cause inconsistent screen exposures. Sure, there is light that "overlaps" in this, but I don't think it's as much or as intense. Keep in mind, this was just my "theory".
mine is built essentially the same way, except i have mine connected the other way... on the long side...

i'm sure i'm getting some overlap as well.. but thankfully, nothing that i've noticed yet.

it helps that i have a lot of pressure from the top though.
I agree with the pressure. I have a firm piece of foam I put down, then a lot of weight on it.
Go to ebay and buy something like This

Mount in the bottom of your exposure unit and make a manual shutter that you can slide over the light to control exposure time. A metal halide light like this will put out light in the correct spectrum for exposing emulsion. If you are using a SQB type emulsion you will get perfect screens with high detail in a mater of seconds.

At minimum use a compression lid on your exposure unit. A vacuum top is better as there is no way you can apply the amount of compressive force that a vacuum can. With just around 8 inches of vacuum you will get the compressive force of over 3500 pounds over a 20x24 screen. You can get close to that with just a shop vac.

The key thing to keep in mind is the screens are one of the most important parts of getting a good print. Why so many people try to skimp and use lights that do not put out anywhere near the right amount of light in the correct nanometer range is beyond me. Good screens properly exposed with sharp detail make printing so much easier. Plus good screens will put your work quality above those who are using the wrong light to expose screens. To tell the truth you would get far superior screens using a space bag and walking out into the sun for 20 seconds if you are looking for a real cheap why to make screens.
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4
Here is what I did. I combined my screen rack, storage shelves and exposure unit. The exposure unit slides out on rails for when I need it. On the right of the unit, there are 2 switches, one for the exposure unit and one for my yellow "bug" light. I just use my iPhone as a timer.

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