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True, aluminum won't warp, but they are more expensive to purchase.

If you are using plastisol ink and plan on burning your screen and using that image over and over again, then wood is ok since it will never get wet.

If you use waterbased inks, or plan on printing and reclaiming your screens each time, then I would go with Aluminum.

Here are some sources:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing/t48519.html
[media]http://www.performancescreen.com/performancecatalog.pdf[/media]
Aluminum Frames | Screen Printing | Victory Factory
Pocono Mt. Screen Supply - Screen Printing Supplies, Screen Printing Equipment, and Screen Printing Frames
https://www.melray.com/website/home
 

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I have a system that I use.

If it stays (kept on the screen for repeat order) - it's aluminum.
If it goes (one-off job) - it's wood.

My wooden ones are double mortise and tenon jointed and then glued, screwed and then sealed. I have never had any problems with them.

I build the frames and then have them stretched by a friend who has a stretcher. I have purchased a few but it's stupid when I can do it myself.

Best Regards,

Matthew Riches
01473 399377
 

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If it stays (kept on the screen for repeat order) - it's aluminum.
If it goes (one-off job) - it's wood.
Interesting. I do the opposite. One off jobs requires the wood frames to get wet more often. So I use aluminum for those to help prevent warping.

Why do you use aluminum at all? Why not just use wood for all jobs?
 

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Interesting. I do the opposite. One off jobs requires the wood frames to get wet more often. So I use aluminum for those to help prevent warping.

Why do you use aluminum at all? Why not just use wood for all jobs?
The reason is, the one off jobs, as soon as the screen becomes in poor state we just bust them up or donate them to the local schools.

Ali ones will store well and will not warp in the heat of our shop.

You see my point :)
 

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Aluminum frames weigh a pound less than wooden frames. Properly made modern frames support the mesh the same as aluminum. If you have an automatic, buy wood, but if you have a manual press, buy aluminum.
 

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Yes Richard would you please explain that, I have never heard that either and I do just the opposite alum on auto, wooden on manual.

Aluminum frames weigh a pound less than wooden frames.


Properly made modern frames support the mesh the same as aluminum. In the early 1980's I did lots of measuring experiments with weights to determine the strength of aluminum and wood members for frames and found the deflection to be the same. As I was stretching my own mesh on the frames, I found the most important factor to be pre-bowing the frame in the stretching equipment. If you didn't, when the mesh is released and all the force supported by the frame, you lost 4-6 newtons instantly.

The real lesson is that all frames are stronger than the mesh and when you lose tension, IT IS BECAUSE THE THREADS HAVE ELONGATED as they relax or are stretched by the squeegee during printing.

I turns out that squeegee strokes align the polyester fibers and used mesh is actually stronger than virgin mesh, fresh off the bolt. Loss of tension has nothing to do with the frame.

I started buying 12 Newman Roller Frames per week, until I reached 600. I was able to print more opaque, thinner deposit of white ink, through a higher mesh at twice the speed at 30 to 40 newtons.

If you have an automatic, buy wood, but if you have a manual press, buy aluminum.

On a six color job, that's 6 pounds less to spin and stop, for each color. A gallon of milk weighs about 8 pounds. An auto has no trouble lifting the extra weight 600 times an hour and the heads don't spin.
 
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