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Wood Frames.....reconditioning

1K views 5 replies 5 participants last post by  fdsales 
#1 ·
I am new to the industry and I was given a lot of wooden screens that appear to be in pretty good shape I would like to sand and reseal, could some one tell me what type of sealant stain or varnish I should use.

Thanks in advance
 
#3 ·
Frankly, I "wooden't" waste any time refinishing wood screens. I had a couple that came with my first used press that had no finish on them, and they were better than the new set I bought that has polyurethane on them. The new ones warped anyway, and the older unfinished ones never did. I chucked them all after a short time.
Get what use you can out of the screens until the mesh is too loose or tears, then slowly replace them with aluminum framed mesh as time and money permit.
 
#4 ·
I use oil stains on mine. A few with polyurethane. Others use varnish but I never did try them.

My first DIY wood frames were regular kiln dried wood. Shifted to some "branded" treated wood which also warps albeit very minimal versus the unbranded ones. My latest wood frames are pre-treated against termite and "water" so hopefully should last longer and I don't "seal" them anymore except on edges/joints.

For process colors I use aluminum frames. I too would suggest you switch to aluminum frames as time and funds permits. But your wood frames can still hhave a long and useful life for images with non critical details.
 
#6 ·
I've been sceenprinting for 25 years, and agree w/ "tpitman". Don't invest any $$$ in the wood frames; use them for your simple jobs, and as they "wear out" then replace w/ aluminum frames. You'll find that the wood frames tend to loosen in the corners, and that will affect your registration, plus aluminum frames allow for tighter screen mesh tensions, which is much better for high end printing, but the wood frames can give you many years of very good use for those 1 color, or very simple non tight registration multi color jobs.
 
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