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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
With all of the posts dedicated to printing white ink, it occurred to me that there was very little information on just printing on white shirts. I am sure we all use little tips and tricks, so I thought I would start a thread so everybody could post up their recipe for their best white shirt print!

I'll go first:

1. I always adjust the art in PS. I adjust the saturation, brightness, and contrast. I also play with the curves and levels to get just the right amount of ink. If you test this on a couple dozen shirts, with variuos types of art, you can really get the feel for what looks the best on the garment.

2. Prepress the shirt for 10 seconds to flatten it out.

3. Print at 720x720 with a double pass.

4. Cure the shirt. I just got a new dryer for my DTG prints, and am currently dialing it in, so I will update this when I have accurate info. Previously on the heat press I would let hover for 60 seconds followed by a 90 second press with light pressure at 335.

NEXT!!
 

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Glad you started this.
I always work up my art in Corel or AI then import into PS for printing. I import at 600 dpi. Maybe could go 300 dpi.
Always go two passes using normal setting (using Rip Pro Ver 4.0)
I hover cure also, about 1/4" away from shirt at 330, then lightly press using teflon sheet for another 10 sec. I find this method washes better. I do the same with my darks except time goes up to 160 sec at 330. I do find that with designs that have red, the color next to the red bleeds into the red. Only happens on white shirts, no problem with white underbase on darks.
Thanks
 

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TJet 2 doing 2 passes 720x720
TJet 3 1 pass 1440x1440
Using Light garment pretreat on whites. Cure for 30 Sec medium pressure. 330F
Curing ink at 90 Sec at very very light pressure. they are washing well.
Question for all, If I have a file in vector it prints great, however if I convert the file to raster it looks faded and dull when printed. File is the same dpi 300. Overall I have a difficult time getting the raster files to look good on the white shirts. Dark with an underbase is not a problem. Well in most cases anyway. I brought this up once before and in that thread I was talking about using Great Dane Graphics files, it was suggested not to delete the seperations that come with the file. Tried that and I did not see a change. I generally run Corel X4. I have tried color managment off, tried embedding a NTSC 1953 profile. I have two rips Fast Rip and Cobra RIP (Rip Pro or Multi Rip GP with different skin.) Anyway any suggestions. I have played with sat brightness and contrast. Printzilla I would be interested in knowing more about your settings in those areas. Thanks for starting the thread.
 

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Light shirt pretreatment cured 20 sec covered light pressure then 10sec uncovered (hover) @ 320, depending on artwork 360 or 720 2 passes cured at 320 for 90-120 sec very light pressure. We have done whites without pretreatment (normally single pass) basically simple text with no bleeding but the colors especially red & yellow don't pop like they do with the pretreatment.
 

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anybody tried 360x360 x 2?? I only bring it up because I saw on a video for Fast Artist that Dave was suggesting this as a sweet spot, however it does not seem likely. I have not tried it.
 

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anybody tried 360x360 x 2?? I only bring it up because I saw on a video for Fast Artist that Dave was suggesting this as a sweet spot, however it does not seem likely. I have not tried it.
On the kiosks we could never get acceptable prints at 360x360 or 360x720, the banding was too noticeable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I do not get the banding at 720 x 360, but I cannot get the saturation of ink I like, so I use the 720x720. I have not used the light PT in over three years. Has it changed? Seems like alot of you guys are using it, so it must be worth it.

Do you apply it just like the dark PT? Do you use a roller/brush/etc....Do you put down the same amount? Is it as important to get it right aka, if to much does it effect washability? Do you cut it 50/50?
 

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I'm like Tahoe, on the Mod1, I use 720x720 with a double pass. I have to reduce my CMYK ink to about 93%. Sometimes I will go 1440x720 with a double pass, depending on the graphic, but the vast majority are 720x720.
 

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I do not get the banding at 720 x 360, but I cannot get the saturation of ink I like, so I use the 720x720. I have not used the light PT in over three years. Has it changed? Seems like alot of you guys are using it, so it must be worth it.

Do you apply it just like the dark PT? Do you use a roller/brush/etc....Do you put down the same amount? Is it as important to get it right aka, if to much does it effect washability? Do you cut it 50/50?
I didn't realize that others were pretreating light shirts either. I think it's worth the extra minute or two, b/c of the end result. I spray much lighter than with regular pretreat. Washability is good. For 50/50, I'm about to test a poly pretreat from DTGInks..
 

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anybody tried 360x360 x 2?? I only bring it up because I saw on a video for Fast Artist that Dave was suggesting this as a sweet spot, however it does not seem likely. I have not tried it.
We have tried 360x360x2 and the coverage was less than desirable for us although with some chest logos that are just small text it has worked ok, the bigger the print area the lack of coverage and banding were much more noticeable. The sweet spot for our T-Jet is the 720x720 for whites that have been pretreated.

Hope this helps.
 
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