White Plastisols

Which ones have you tried. Have you called anyone of your suppliers or companies directly to request samples? Part of the equation is your technique so make sure to try before you buy.

is there specific inks for cotton and 50/50? i have been using ryonet white for both with no problems other than i have to use alot of reducer.

Always had good luck with Unions Bright Cotton White... very creamy and easy to use. Usually thin it down slightly and keep a paint stirrer in the gallon jug, put the cordless drill on it each time it's used and mix it well... works great.

I like the ryonet white and thin it with 10% reducer and 5% soft hand. Union ink are also great. I also thin it but only 5%CR and 5%SH. but union has several whites the bright cotton is the one I have tried.

Drscotty14. Yes there is different inks for 100% and 50/50. Low bleed ink for 50/50. Some shirt colors will bleed more than others. Red and blue are notorious for bleed.

Hegemone said:

Part of the equation is your technique so make sure to try before you buy.

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Great point and grossly understated. A BIG part of the equation is art prep, screen/press set up and print technique.

Getting opinions is a good place to start, but reading as much literature from different manufacturers on the types of whites offered and the recommendations, then actually trying them first hand is key.

Personally I have no "best". I pretty much use Union's whites, and which one depends on the application.

And it's possible to screw up cotton shirts by using a low bleed ink as well--although it's much harder to do than screwing up poly or 50/50's with cotton ink. Humidity, temp, and pressure at the end of the dryer when you're stacking them up are the factors to watch for.

I'd also add, if there was an ink that was the most opaque, the most printable, the easiest and fastest gel and cure, and it was cheap, someone would buy the company out and mark it up.

when does the bleeding happen? while printing? flashing? curing? washing?

drscotty14 said:

when does the bleeding happen? while printing? flashing? curing? washing?

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This acually can happen flashing, curing, or a wash or 2 later. That's why I now only use poly inks for any poly products as I had a customer call me and after 2 washes called about some bleeding. They bought them in and weren't upset and I offered to replace they said no so I told them I would give them 10% off next order. They have since been in twice and I gave them the 10% second time also. They said didn't happen on the other shirts. I had used Ryonet white many times before without issue on 50/50. That could have been costly since first order was 50 shirts.

Used to think QCM 158 was best, but I got a bum batch that I'm still working through. So far my favorite is J&S 007 HO Extreme White. Prints easily and through a 158 really matts down the fibers so I get a smooth print. I just did a 7-color sim process job, and the prints feel like I heat pressed 'em after printing.
I'm going to try a quart of International Coatings 711 white, having read good things about it.
Union's Bright Cotton White is too thin for my taste. Prints easily, but doesn't have the opacity and fiber matt down I like. Might be my technique. It makes a great highlight white ink, though, or underbase for process colors on lights.

You're going to post a pic right??

i use ryonets international coatings ink. i have tried union inks as well. the union inks seem to stay together better in the pale, whereas ryonets seems to seperate and oil comes to the top sometimes. union stays like butter. anyone else feel the same?