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We have a customer that is interested in having us print some 18x24 corplast signs for them. I believe you need different emulsion, ink, etc for that but not sure exactly what.

I know I can get corplast precut from signwarehouse.com at a pretty decent price... around $1.30/ea shipped in at qty 50.

We have Ulano QX-1 emulsion currently and typically have 110 mesh screen although we will probably need a larger set.

What about ink... I believe we need waterbased?

Finally, what about chemicals needed during printing and of course for cleanup, etc? I have heard that you better not let waterbase ink sit on the screens after printing... but not sure how long it takes to dry and ruin the screen.

Finally, I also have heard you have to "air-dry" corplast signs instead of running through the conveyor dryer. Even at a low heat with air-circulation turned on? How long does drying take... we have to print both sides and don't have alot of room for laying signs flat?

Thanks ahead of time....
 

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We have a customer that is interested in having us print some 18x24 corplast signs for them. I believe you need different emulsion, ink, etc for that but not sure exactly what.

I know I can get corplast precut from signwarehouse.com at a pretty decent price... around $1.30/ea shipped in at qty 50.

We have Ulano QX-1 emulsion currently and typically have 110 mesh screen although we will probably need a larger set.

What about ink... I believe we need waterbased?

Finally, what about chemicals needed during printing and of course for cleanup, etc? I have heard that you better not let waterbase ink sit on the screens after printing... but not sure how long it takes to dry and ruin the screen.

Finally, I also have heard you have to "air-dry" corplast signs instead of running through the conveyor dryer. Even at a low heat with air-circulation turned on? How long does drying take... we have to print both sides and don't have alot of room for laying signs flat?

Thanks ahead of time....
Do not use waterbased, you must use solvent inks. Most solvent inks are air dried, so you can not let it dry in the screen, otherwise you will have to clear it each time. (Basically you need to work fast.) Our solvents only take 10 seconds before it starts to clog. 110 mesh is too coarse and ink will just drip through. Use a 200 or above for best results.

We have a flatstock rack we use for when screen printing flatstocks so that we have enough room for while it dries. If you use it straight from the can, solvent inks usually take 30 minutes to dry to the touch, at least couple hours to dry enough to stack, and i would say a full 24 hours to make sure before giving it to the customer.

Emulsion used must be a solvent resistant emulsion. Cleaning must be a solvent cleaner (this crap is nasty so wear a mask, solvent ink is nasty as well).

Hope that helps.
 

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i know you also have to print them a certain direction with coro cant remeber which way, im sure someone here will know. how many are you going to print, and how many colors. i ask because it might be worth it just to sub them out
 

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You need a graphic emulsion. One that resists solvents.

You need a coroplast ink, made for printing on that material. This is an air dry ink and you can only print one color at a time. The ink needs to dry between colors completely. This takes about 30 minutes with a fan on them.

I would suggest a screen size 23x31. (per color) Use at least 230 mesh. This is a thin ink and you don't want it to run through the screen.

Clean up with a solvent such as RC5 or lacquer thinner.

Hope this helps
 

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I use qx-1 with no problems, it's never chemically locked up. I use naz-dar 7900 series corogloss and the re-180 thinner, use the retarder thinner when it's really hot outside. Clean up w/ acetone. I like 180 or so mesh, it is good for basic sign type graphics. You can use finer mesh but 180 does not dry out as quick, because it will hold more ink in the mesh after you flood. Once you get in a groove and print quick enough, you really don't even have to flood. I can can print 8-10 a minute manually or about 300-400/ hr. on a flatbed auto.

also, i don't know where you are, but I've get coro from reece supply in dallas for .79 each for 100. if you plan on printing a lot, buy it 100 at a time. it doesn't go bad and it's not like buying blank shirts where you have to have different sizes and colors.

i feel there is better markup in signs than shirts if you can find a good price on blanks and have room to print.
 

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100, one color, 1 side?......use vinyl cutter and vinyl roll.... no messy and stinky solvent ink... :)

you'd have at least $1 in vinyl and tape, plus the blank. add in cutting, weeding and applying time. that would be an all day job. I can print that in under and hour. to shoot a screen would be less than a dollar and could theoretically print 1000's of them. ink, tape, clean up stuff and emulsion would be less than $5

it works good for name drop stuff like golf tournaments, screen print "this hole sponsored by" and then vinyl in ABC Junk, Inc. or whatever. We would always do the vinyl in a different color and the customer would think they are getting a better deal.

i worked at my dad's sign shop for 10 years and know what the costs are. it would be tough to make any money vinyling that many.
 
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