[mailman]

I have been silkscreen for a while now, simple one and two colors. I have a feed mill that would like a photo of the original building on a grey shirt, I have used transfers on ash before with good results. I would like to screen print these or at least try. I was wondering what mesh I should use,I currently have only 110 and 156, would the 156 be o.k., or not fine enough. I do have a Accurip software. Thanks, Mark

 

[TYGERON]

The 110 or the 156 can work well. You can use an even higher mesh count but it's not necessary for a good print. Start with a good, clear image. Make adjustments for contrast, overall tonal variation and lighten any very dark areas. Don't be afraid to use what would be considered a larger dot.

 

[mailman]

Thanks Tygeron

 

[uncletee]

sublimation would be the best bet for photos. good luck uncletee

 

[DedMan]

You can use bigger dots on the lower meshes to do it, but if it were me I would use a 230 mesh screen with a 45-55lpi eliptical halftone dot. I'm a bit over picky according to some of my coworkers

 

[Rodney]

:: edited thread TITLE to be more descriptive ::
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[Preston]

I agree with DedMan. The lowest mesh count I would use for printing photographs would be a 230. I normally use 305 or 355 for things like that. Using a low mesh screen will work but you will have a grainy looking print if the photo has a lot of tonal range in it.

 

[mailman]

Thanks for all the help. Mark

 

[beanie357]

I gotta vote for 300 and change.
I'd play with dots to see what looked best with what I was given as a model. (Shape, size)
Seems like finer detail makes customers more "reminded" of the photograph they have in their hand (customer expectations).
Just a personal preference. We use mostly 156's but don't get a whole lot of requests for "photo" look. Then we generally move to our DTG Neoflex. Working on one now though that gave us incredibly detailed art, we need to make look like an old sepia drawing. We'll have fun with that one.

 

[TYGERON]

sublimation would be the best bet for photos. good luck uncletee

If the tee is polyester or treated with applicable surface to accept sublimation.

 

[TYGERON]

Thanks Tygeron

126 mesh count. 32.5 line

Looking back I should've masked off and tweaked the darker areas or been a little more particular with the tone curve.

 

[beanie357]

Looks sweet tygeron! we have something for art dept to work on different than what we do.
Gotta love this forum for learning!

 

[mailman]

Thanks again, here is the photo the customer would like on the shirt. I have adjusted it somewhat don't know how close I am. Thanks again for all the help. Mark

 

[TYGERON]

Thanks again, here is the photo the customer would like on the shirt.

It wouldn't enlarge when I clicked on it.
But from what I can see you might want to lighten the darker shadowed areas a bit particularly where they transition any detail area like around the car.

When you print make sure your platens are clean, smooth and void of any threads, bumps or any other obstructions. Perfect your exposure. Hard, sharp squeegee. Tiiiight screen. Off contact. One smooth firm pass and you should be good to go.

And you've got a 110 and a 156?

For this one use the 156.

 

[DNAImagery]

I'm curious to see how this turns out for you! I want to print a similar picture... be sure to post results!!

 

[mailman]

Thanks again, just exposed a 110 to test, drying, have to clean a 156 from a recent job, will give it a shot after work thursday. I will let you know. Thanks again, Mark

 

[mailman]

I did a test on a 110 mesh, I cannot seem to get the detail in the building. I would like to get the vehicle brighter, and a little more detail of the building. I am using an ash grey shirt so I would imagine I need to keep some of the darker contrast. Would a 156 mesh work better? The picture on the left is a scan of my test print. What is the best way to do the adjustments on the photo. Thanks, Mark

 

[DedMan]

The higher mesh count you use the more like the photo it will look, so yea, 156 will hold more of the detail. If it were me, I would use at least a 230 unless the customer specifically requested a coarse dot "graphic" look.

 

[mailman]

Thanks Rod

 

[mailman]

I have ordered a 230 mesh screen to give this photo a shot. I am still a little confused on how to prepare the photo for best results. I would like to have as much detail as possible but I seem to loose the truck. This is where I am confused, I do have a rip software, AccuRip. Do I convert the photo to a greyscale, black and white or a halftone or none of these? I will be using black ink on a light grey shirt. The test print I did was on a 110 mesh which was not so bad except I lost the truck. Thanks for all the help, Mark