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WHAT?? do i really NEED this?

3317 Views 23 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  lindsayanng
WHAT IS THIS?? i was reading the best blanks site about Dye Sub. and have no idea why it is telling me i NEED power driver pro.. especially since i ONLY have macs and it only runs on windows!

I read (kinda) that it color corrects for printing on things like metalic items.. but do i REALLY need it? is there a mac counter part?
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one of the bumps that Mac users run into is that a lot of programs that the PC world uses is not available for Macs...A constant source of frustration for my wife, an avid Mac user
yea.. but do i NEED it. i mean, i have illustrator adn photoshop, which is what i will be doing all of my editing from.. I will be printing mostly on white things to start with anyways..

Is it nessecary to run that printer?? There is no way i am buying a PC for this!
SUBLIMATION INK & Dye Sub Systems: Dye Sublimation Inks for Epson Printers

"If your computer and software do not meet these requirements, please contact your BestBlanks for other color management options."

http://www.bestblanks.com/epsonprinters.html
"The 1400 is the next step for those looking to upgrade from older Epson models and users looking to upgrade to a true tabloid-sized printer for t-shirts, mugs, license plates, plaques and more. The 1400 is an ideal upgrade for Epson 1280 owners looking for improved quality, speed and stability. Sublijet PowerDriver Color Management Software with latest Windows and Mac drivers are included at no charge. Sublimation inks sold separately"
ok.. but do i NEED them. What do they do? I mean, my computer comes with loads of regular drivers installed already, i can get an epson driver FROM epson.. what does the power driver do?
looks like it helps with color matching... I'm guessing you can print with only the Epson drivers...

Explanation of PowerDriver Pro Software

Power Driver Pro for Windows
PowerDriver Pro is our own proprietary printer software, working alongside Epson's printer software to automatically color match artwork for metal, ceramic, fabric, mouse pads, and Unisub wood board. PowerDriver automatically sets the Epson printer settings for SubliJet printing.
Using PowerDriver is simple. Simply design your artwork, print to the PowerDriver printer, and transfer the image. Colors print the way you expect and photographic images look like the original. For spot color matches, PowerDriver comes with a useful color table that approximates Pantone spot colors for corporate logos and signage.

PowerDriver works alongside any graphics design software that runs under Microsoft Windows operating systems. If you can print from your application, you can print to PowerDriver!
  • Available for Windows 95/98, ME, 2000 and XP
  • Photoshop 5 or higher or Illustrator 9 or higher
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yea.. i read that. That is what i KINDA understood from their explaination too, but the thing is, they say its required.. SO i am basically asking if anyone uses an epson printer for Dye Sub and DOES NOT use that driver?
I use Artainium inks with only the Artainium ICC profile and CorelDraw. My prints are pretty comparable to what I see on the screen. When it first prints, it does look a little bit faded on the paper, but once they sublimate into the coating, looks real sharp. I just did a puzzle yesterday for a friend's daughter for her birthday and I'm thinking about replacing the one in my shop with it, I'll include some photos in a bit.
sorry.. my newbie-ness is really coming out now..

What is Artainium ICC profile??

I have a true to print color monitor because we do photographer, and use photoshop for all editing.. So if i knew i was printing on a darker image, couldnt i do it by hand? and when printing on white, i wouldnt need any of that stuff.. So really, CAN you run an epson printer with the dye sub. cartridges without that software??

Other than color correction, does it do anything different?
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ICC profiles are used by printers and software to color correct, usually they're used for specific materials (similar to choosing Glossy Photo Paper as opposed to regular paper when printing), but in this case it's for the sublimation ink (Artainium) itself, since sublimation ink does have different properties than what your regular printer uses.

Finished that puzzle, here's the photos of the initial image, my adjustments (she likes pink, hence the pink clouds), pre-press, postpress, and a closeup.

Attachments

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haha.. i love how that piece fits right on her nose!!

Anyways, I understand now, but i COULD make my own color profiles in photoshop by just testing a few options and creating an "action" For instance, i have created some profiles to use when printing photos on metallic paper, glossy paper, or matte paper... so i would just create a profile for stainless steel, ceramic, puzzles, ect the same way!

I'm going to be printing lots of tests anyway, so i can just keep note of the adjustments..

Does this make sense?? is doing it manually acceptale?
yes, I've heard of different companies offering different profiles altogether. Most people either don't have the knowledge to create their own profile, or don't want to spend the time and money (the ink is quite expensive). A lot of time the color correction is included when you buy the bulk system, but if you're a perfectionist, then you may get better results tweaking yourself. Do take into consideration that what is on the paper isn't always what is on the substrate like I showed, the paper before heatpress has a bit more dull of a look than the finished product (which adds a glossy finish and the ink I believe becomes darker when heated).
yes, i have read about the dullness of thepaper, and can clearly see it in the pictures posted above. That is good to know so i dont freak out when i print my first ones.

I'm just trying to put together a list of things that i would need to print my own stuff..

I would LIKE to have
1 flat heat press
1 mug press
a C120 epson printer
inks
heat tape
paper
blanks
(do i need some kind of coating?)

I cant think of things that i need though..i keep looking and looking and its all so overwhelming
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Hi. I had to create my own colour profile for sublimation, as I am in the fortunate position of not having to use Sawgrass inks, due to having a large format printer.

The reason you need a profile, is that the inks have different qualities to regular inkjet printers, so you end up with things like brighter blues, deeper reds etc. The profile corrects those differences in the ink, so you end up with what is seen on screen (usually).

Sublimation needs quite a bit more work than regular inkjet printing to get the colours just right.
So do they make a comparable program for MACs??

I'm sure with trial and error, if i stick with the same ink brand, i can make my own profiles, like i do with photo printing.. but if they have one for mac, i would rather just get one specifically forit..
The people that will be able to answer that question accurately for you are Sawgrass themselves. You should be able to find the answer on their site.
It sounds like you have everything pretty much covered.

As long as your blanks are created with dye sublimation in mind, you have all the major resources you need.

I also recommend:

A good paper cutter - Good for when you batch jobs, or if you plan on doing a lot of mugs, I sometimes a few pieces of paper into three 2.8x11 sections and you have your own little sub paper for each mug.

Extra copy paper, or scrap paper - This is useful for putting underneath the substrate on your flat heat press. I always have a bleed area when sublimating, when the ink heats up, it turns into a gas and goes down. The material soaks up the majority, but the extra bleed around the edges has to go somewhere, so if you don't put a piece of paper down,it will go into your bottom platen and may end up sublimating onto something else. I normally have tons of one sided printed regular copy paper that is no longer useful. I place two sheets with the text facing each other (cause I've had toner transfer to the bottom of my heat press before too) and press.

A teflon sheet - Used over top of the material, I seem to get better results when pressing with it.

An oven mitt - If you're doing aluminum or ceramic tiles, these get really really hot and stay really really hot for awhile. Sometimes you can remove it with the copy paper underneath, but sometimes it's best to just grab it.

About the coating, as long as you're buying from a dye sub distributor that lists it as a dye sub product, you're fine. But for example, you cannot go to Walmart and buy a coffee mug, then sublimate on it, as it is probably missing the polymer coating and the ink will either not bind to it at all, or will wash off after the first wash.

Conde, Coastal Business, and Johnson all have a good variety of dye sublimatable substrates (mugs, plaques, nametags, etc)
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Joeshaul -
we have all the cutters and such from when my husband was heavily into graphic design with the self healing boards and all that..

I WAS thinking about getting a c120 printer, but since i just got a good deal on a C88, do you think that is ok for what i am doing?

we will NOT be producing mas quantities of anything. We are only printing ourself because we have a photography website and do pet photographer and those people LOVE their mugs and puzzles and silly stuff like that.. the issue was I could not find a company that would give us a price that was under retail.. Buying a mug for $9.00 and then trying to sell it for anything more than $15.00 is crazy! people just dont want a $15.00 mug.. if we do it outselves, we can offer a lower price at a higher profit margin..

I am a little confused about the use of the copy paper.. Maybe i will understand more when i actually GET my press..

The order that you put the stuff on the press is Paper (ink side up) then the material to be pressed to (ink side down)?? Where does the paper go? Underneath the printed paper??

Wow.. I am really confused.. are there pictures some where of the actual PROCESS of th pressing
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c88 will work just fine...I am just an old fuddy duddy but IF I am spending $400 to get ready to print sublimation...why not just pay the 15-17 cents per page and get a quality print...Just my humble opinion...which is seldom humble
i understand what you are saying, and the only reason i am thinking about this printer is because its in a package barter deal that i am working out with someone.. If iw as paying for a new printer, i would have just got the C120, but if its close to equivelent, and i can get away with a barter, i am VERY VERY happy
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