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What cutter plotter should i buy for JPSS & 3G Opaue transfer paper? HELP!

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Please Help me guys.
What cutter plotter should i buy?for heat transfer paper

1. Jaguar III (GCC)
2. Puma III (GCC)
3. Craft Robo Pro


*Does Jaguar III and Puma III have optical eye?
*Which of these 3 cutter plotter should i buy?that is best for transfer paper.

I'm From the Philippines.
if you guys know the prices of these 3 cutter plotter post post it here and also the link, where to buy here in the Philippines. Thanks!
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Fantastic, I was about to submit the same question. I am looking at:

I am using JPSS and Coastal Inkjet Opaque.

Is an optical eye required? Do either of these have one that is actually good enough?

Also will we need a Mask (aka. magic mask) for the JPSS? I read in the forums it is preferred but not necessary since JPSS is 2-ply, but it's really thin.

Thanks for any help!
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all of them uses optical eye, its depend from what budget you can affrod..Puma and Junguar are both in 24" size while craftrobo pro is 15". My question is why do you still need to cut JPSS using cutter? JPSS is for light garments you can cut by scissor not like opaque paper need to cut by cutter(contour cut) so that the white background will not seen on the garment. PM me if you need craftrobo pro
Always get more machine than you need to start with and you wont be sorry later.

An optical eye is not required for contour cutting, it just speeds up the process.

I currently own Summa cutters and none of them have an optical eye but I contour cut all my dark transfers by digitizing the reg marks through flexi sign

I have never contour cut light transfers, I just lay the paper on my glass table and trim around with a scalpel.

JB
I have a craft robo PRO and use 3g... it has worked very well for us. It all has a learning curve and the software could definitely be more user friendly as far as warning you about errors before you start. Just go slow. We traced with the pen a LOT of times before we dropped in the blade. We just never trusted it... we are still extremely weary when we send a job to the cutter... but I think that is the case no matter what cutter... especially at $1/sheet, you really hate to ruin one.

Jason, I'm curious as to how you contour cut without the eye (or a laser like the UScutter LP series).
Jason, I'm curious as to how you contour cut without the eye (or a laser like the UScutter LP series).

Well first of all you need FlexiSign, or at least Flexi Starter.

Do you have this software? If so I will be glad to proceed with detailed instructions.

JB
No, I have optical registration so it's not really an issue. I'm just sort of a knowledge whore and a geek, so I like understanding the process of things like that.
Ok ok I see...lol.

In flexi after you create your contour lines around the graphic you click rip and print. Flexi will put crosshair registration marks on the paper when printing. When you send that job to the cutter it will ask you to align the reg marks in one of 2 ways. You can digitize them if your cutter is capable of that or you can do it manually through flexi on a set of arrows on the screen that moves the cutter head and material to each of the marks. Once you have told the machine where each of the 4 marks are manually or digitizing it will ask you to click next cut and off it goes.

This is a very short vague explanation but im sure you get the idea.

JB
I got it... a lot like the UScutter LP series... just they make it a little easier to register with the laser.

I have enough issues doing it with the optical system, I would really hate to do with manually. Granted, I have done mostly 3g work.
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