T-Shirt Forums banner

want to screen print design with grey shades

2155 Views 3 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  artemis75
hi

i'm new in screen printing, i have this design which i have attached, and i want to create a screen for it. i want to print it using one color print and one screen. the result of the player in the image(nadal) doesnt have to be identical, it needs to be a close and good result. what screen do i need to use? how do i make the graphics for the film positives? and any other tips and information would help me a lot!

thanks

Attachments

See less See more
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
This can be done in one color using a combination of halftones and solids on the same screen. I'd try it first with a 160 screen and 42 lpi halftone at 22.5 degrees.

As many have been discussing recently, more and more of us are finding that halftone dots can be effectively burned on somewhat coarser screens than have been traditionally used in the past. I believe that this is because of tighter screens and better emulsion than that which was used 20-30 years ago when the standards were established. Good coating technique and proper exposure are more important to the quality of a halftone than mesh count.

When I used 230 mesh for halftones, I was never happy with the solid areas of the prints. Often I'd burn two screens for a one color job. One for the halftone and one for the solid graphics. Using 160 mesh makes it easy to print dense solids and crisp halftones with much less effort.
I'll go out on a limb and say that getting a "close and a good result" is gonna be really hard with one screen if you're trying to make it look like the original. 3 colors would nail it.

Doing it as a 1 color, I'd use a 205 yellow mesh on a roller frame, 55 dpi halftone, and a sharp squegee to start.
This can be done in one color using a combination of halftones and solids on the same screen. I'd try it first with a 160 screen and 42 lpi halftone at 22.5 degrees.

As many have been discussing recently, more and more of us are finding that halftone dots can be effectively burned on somewhat coarser screens than have been traditionally used in the past. I believe that this is because of tighter screens and better emulsion than that which was used 20-30 years ago when the standards were established. Good coating technique and proper exposure are more important to the quality of a halftone than mesh count.

When I used 230 mesh for halftones, I was never happy with the solid areas of the prints. Often I'd burn two screens for a one color job. One for the halftone and one for the solid graphics. Using 160 mesh makes it easy to print dense solids and crisp halftones with much less effort.

I agree with Neil. You can use a single screen with a combination of solid (for blacks) and halftones (for grays).

I've attached an image of a halftone printing test I did last week. Design was burned onto a 156 mesh screen and black ink printed onto natural canvas. The open areas printed black and the gray areas were created with halftones. As a noob, I was surprised by the fine details. I have only a 1 color DIY press so only one screen used. (orange was hand painted just for fun...note to self...need better press...)

Attachments

See less See more
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top