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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi, I am trying to use a vinyl cutter to do some heat press prints. I am having a lot of trouble with the sharpness of the lines and corners. I attached a photo and circles my issues in red. It's almost like the beginning of the cut and the end of the cut are not meeting up leaving a gap that has to be ripped. It looks to me as if the end isn't meeting with the beginning because stopping early and/or its not stopping early and the end and beginning are just slightly off (one is above the other).

The cutter is have is VEVOR Vinyl Cutter 34 Inch Vinyl Cutter Machine

Any advice would be much appreciated!
 

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like Jynx said, check your vector nodes (zoom in to the trouble areas) and check your blade offset

have you tried the test cut feature on scrap vinyl to ensure everything is working?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi All,

Thank you guys for your responses. So at first our lines weren't very straight but we adjusted the blade offset and it fixed it. but it didn't fix the starting and ending point. It usually only happens when letters that have a whole or inside part but on the test we do it happens to the U. I have done multiple calibration test and the software tells me to pick which ones is the best but they all are horrible. All 16 of the different options all look the same. I have attached a picture of the calibration test. As for the vector file, it it happening when we just type a normal word on the software so I don't think it's the vector file. This is my first time using a vinyl cutter and we have done test with the offset from .2 all the way up to .9. and none of the offsets fix this issue.

Any advice on offset settings I should know?
 

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what does your manual recommend for blade offset?

60 degree blade should be 0.40 offset and the 45 blade should be 0.25, 30 blade is 0.25 (standard offsets for roland blades)
i would limit your offsets to a range of 0.2 - 0.5

try doing your test cuts with the lowest speed possible

ensure your vinyl is secure under the rollers and not shifting (use a long piece of vinyl and use the arrows to move it through and watch the edge for movement)
try using a cutting mat until you dial in your settings for the material (and any subsequent new material)
if you do not have one, go to michael's and get the cricut 24" mats, or make one with thick mylar and repositionable spray glue

your blade should barely be protruding from its housing, credit card at most
make sure your force matches your material, you want a very faint line on the backing, not a cut into it

lock your hammers away until you get it dialed in
it will take a little time, but you will get there

~
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi

So i tried at the lowest speed, and an offset of .25 and the first picture is the result. The corners are not sharp and the beginning / end thing is still happening.

The second picture i put the offset up to .4 the corners are better but I'm still have the beginning not meeting the end issue.

My manual doesn't recommend anything for my offset, but the package of blades say .25 offset, but that clearly isn't working.




White Light Motor vehicle Black Automotive tire
Rectangle Font Art Wood Ceiling
 

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Changes to Offset should produce a discernable change in the cut quality, and It is not, so offset won't be your problem. Most font's have imperfections which aren't noticeable or a problem for their intended size/use but when you enlarge a 5 or 10 pixel font to a much larger size imperfections are amplified & you need to manually edit the file to remove them.

First you'll need to create a 100% perfect vector design to cut, once you know the integrity of your artwork is perfect, then you can resume experimenting with offset to perfect the cut.
 

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i would stick to test cuts, once you perfect that then move on

also, convert your font to a path and zoom in to the trouble areas and post a pic
then we can tell if the font is decent and it is indeed the cutter
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So I am using two fonts. One of them is a file from Illustrator but the other is just typing on sign master. So I don't think think it's the artwork. Also the same artwork has the error in different locations so that is another reason I don't think it is the vector file.
 

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Well, your blade offset is definitely wrong, so you may want to correct that first.

Actually, why not try plotting the design using a pen (with offset=0) rather than the blade and see what you get? Most cutters will accept various pens. I use a Sharpie marker in my Silver Bullet machine wrapped with a few layers of masking tape so that it fits snugly into the blade holder.

272324
 

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well, at least we can cross off the file itself and focus on speed, force, offset, vinyl movement and blade depth

have you looked at the carrier sheet with the letters removed to check your blade depth?

When setting the blade length,hold the blade holder up next to the material before pressing the material to the mat, so that you can more accurately set the length to match the thickness of the material.For really thin materials, like vinyl and thin paper, just the very tip of the blade will be protruding from the bottom of the blade holder. In fact, you should just barely be able to feel it with your fingertip and not be able to see it very well, if at all.
 

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ok, i downloaded signmaster basic demo and have it running

it looks like the default overcut is way too high (mine started at 2.00), try lowering to 0.05 or 0.10

leave the blade offset to around 0.25 to start with
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi

Thank you for your response. We have lowered the overcut already. We tried 0, .2, .5 and .10. None of them fixed the issue. So the last test we did .4 overcut and .25 offset, and it was still messed up.
 

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Pointless making any machine adjustments without beginning with a cut file that is 100% correct. The machine can never be accurate if the artwork isn't and you certainly can't make adjustments to the machine to compensate for shoddy artwork.

Into the T asked about your "test cut" results in his 1st post, this is using the inbuilt test cut feature, but you didn't answer?

You said "The same artwork has the error in different locations." What do you mean?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Pointless making any machine adjustments without beginning with a cut file that is 100% correct. The machine can never be accurate if the artwork isn't and you certainly can't make adjustments to the machine to compensate for shoddy artwork.

Into the T asked about your "test cut" results in his 1st post, this is using the inbuilt test cut feature, but you didn't answer?

You said "The same artwork has the error in different locations." What do you mean?
This is my test cut and all of them are messed up. Ive done about 4 test cuts.

And what I mean by the same artwork having the error in different locations is...I made one artwork. I've probably cut it 15 different times, each time the mess up in the cutting is in a different locations. One cut the mess up will be at the top of the B and the next it'll be at the bottom of the B but it is the same exact file. If you look at the second picture attached. The 2 B on the left side are the same file but the messed up area is at a different spot which means the error is not in the artwork or the mess up would be consistent.
 

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