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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone used the Vastex pin registration?
I'm considering purchasing it and I would like to know if it's a good product.
 

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It is a good product. Do you fully understand how to use it? Is it worth your money?

I can put you hands on a little different idea.

Hands on folks. I ain't typing it out...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I watched the demo on the Vastex website and I saw the Newman demonstrated at the ISS show. With that one you have to use the retensionable frames that go with it and it's expensive. I plan to go with the retensionable frames later but for now I just need something to help with pre registration. I have never tried mult color prints and even though my press has the micros I know you still need to get the films lined up as close as possible before making the screens. Do you know of another system that will do the same thing, maybe for less money?
 

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I've got the whole thing I picked up slightly used for cheap, but all you really need are two sets of pins and the prepunched carrier sheets. Design a layout board yourself, mount the pins on the board (take a carrier sheet, cut the top edge with the holes, place the pins in the holes, and tape it to the top edge of your layout board. Do the same with the other end of the carrier sheet you just cut one end off of and mount it to the glass of your exposure unit in an appropriate spot).
You could also buy a punch and 2 sets of pins from an offset printer supply house and punch your own mylar, but the punches are not cheap. The pins and carrier sheets from Vastex aren't that expensive, and you reuse the carrier sheets. I've got the grubby ones I got with the used system, plus another box of new ones I bought from Vastex, and I just try and keep the tape residue off 'em. They'll pretty much last forever.

One other thing. The system comes with a jig that fits to your platen, that's aligned with your screen clamp in the printhead (I'm not sure this system would work very well with side clamps). You then slide your screens up against the stops on the jig at the clamp and at the left side, then tighten the clamp to your frame. This is what brings the screens into close registration. This is really the only part of the system that makes buying it from Vastex worthwhile, and I'm not sure how well it works with all makes of presses. It works great with my Vastex, but of course, that's what it was primarily designed for. It is something that could also be cobbled up pretty easily to custom fit your press if you're handy with tools.

I think the real advantage to these pin registration systems (whether Vastex or anyone else's, or ANY series of procedures, is the "system" part. If you can develop a system or series of steps for prepress, and follow it every time, you'll eliminate a certain amount of variables and subsequently reduce mistakes, or make troubleshooting problems easier, thereby saving time overall.
 

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That's a great response tpitman. You are dead on the money.

I acquired a Stoesser register system. The punch and pins that go with it. I made my own line up positives for my light table. I fabricated a set of stops that are like the Vastec system for my frames. Different sized frames have different stops atop of separate Mylar sheets. They have common centers and distances from the press clamps.

You line up one color atop of another on the light table and carrier sheet or strip. Put one on and tape it down. New carrier sheet/strip and add color two until you are done...

Use a Mylar sheet with the pins and frame stops, for the correct sized frame, on your light table . Add positive for color 1. Use double sided tape and transfer onto your unexposed screen. Repeat for all other colors. Expose and washout screens. They are all now in register on the screens to one another.

Take the same lineup sheet and tape it onto a platen in the correct position. Use this to position your screens into the clamps based off of the frame stops. You are now within a small amount of adjustment of having all colors in register.
 

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Hi Guys, Ive studied the vastex system, looks really nice and by all means I dont see how it couldnt help anyone with multi-color pre registration. Being the proverbial tightwad I took a look at it and tried to make something similar to it and I think I did. Keep in mine I have enough tools to choke a pig but I only spent around 30.00 for both boards. That being said, I found it a bit tricky to get both boards in sync as far as alignment. But I did and every thing lines up perfectly. I will mention that I dont like the way I made the bump stops, I used 3/8 rod connectors and they are tough to adjust, do-able but not easy. So I'm looking for a way to make the bump stops easier to adjust, So I'm looking for a bumpstop for a 3/8 bolt at least a inch tall to work with the newman mz3 frames and my other 20X23'' frames. I will have to find these online somewhere.
 

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For what it's worth now (I retired and sold all my stuff over a year ago), I used the board I made with the pins and punched mylar sheets to get the films aligned from screen to screen. I'd set my first print up (usually black or white, or whatever had the most information) and strike a print on a waste shirt, with registration marks included. Cover the print with clear packaging tape, then use that to set up the remaining colors, one at a time. I found that even with pin registration I almost always had to make small adjustments on press to each screen. Registering each screen to an actual print was generally as fast or faster, as it factored in the shirt material, differences in screen tension from screen to screen, and slight mechanical differences from one print head and palette to another.
 

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@mikefarwell
What you've done here looks very similar to what I use as a base platen. Your mistake is that you are trying to copy another system, when in reality it is very easy to make your own.
You can use the same platen to align the film negatives, and the screen. All you have to do is make sure that the screen goes in the same position every time, before you clap it. All you need is 2 holes and 2 removable pins. I even use spacers for the off contact.
Really easy... just use your brain.
 

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Hey Bob, youre right I could use one but the only reason why I made a duplicate so I would have in in my exposure room where my exposure unit is at. So how do you like the system that you made? I'm still wondering if its really any faster than just tap . tap set?
 

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Hey Bob, youre right I could use one but the only reason why I made a duplicate so I would have in in my exposure room where my exposure unit is at. So how do you like the system that you made? I'm still wondering if its really any faster than just tap . tap set?.... actually I just figured out how to have a true pin system that mounts to the press clamps, the screen would have a small plate attached to the bottom of the screen with the punch holes and the clamp would have a match plate with pins.....I'm going to talk to a machineshop to find out how much it would cost to do something like this..on paper it sounds easy...
 

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Hey Bob, youre right I could use one but the only reason why I made a duplicate so I would have in in my exposure room where my exposure unit is at. So how do you like the system that you made? I'm still wondering if its really any faster than just tap . tap set?.... actually I just figured out how to have a true pin system that mounts to the press clamps, the screen would have a small plate attached to the bottom of the screen with the punch holes and the clamp would have a match plate with pins.....I'm going to talk to a machineshop to find out how much it would cost to do something like this..on paper it sounds easy...
I use metal rods, and HDPE square stock. ;)
 
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