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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Does anyone here use this ink? I ordered a Qt of the Golden Yellow. When I took the lid off I noticed this stuff is extra thick. All it is like really thick peanut butter. It took all I could do to mix it. Is this normal, or did I get a old container of ink?

I have been using Ryonets opaque white, and it is at least twice as thick as that ink.

The description the manufacture gives is

  • EASY TO PRINT
  • SOFT CREAMY CONSISTENCY
I don't think I would call it soft and creamy. Maybe it will be easy to print. It sure seems like it would be hard to get threw the screen
 

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I bought the Mixopake set for doing Pantone colors, and used to buy Maxopake inks such as Royal Blue and Golden Yellow, but since I underbase everything going on a shirt now anyway, I almost always buy Union's Ultrasoft line. The exceptions to this is I do have some QCM XOLB in Royal Blue, Bright Red and Golden Yellow, but they're easy to print with anyway and cure to a matte finish if you don't let them get too hot in the dryer. Not as thin as the ultrasofts, though, which are really nice to print with. The last couple of quarts of Union's Maxopake Royal Blue were pretty much unusable. To say they were thick is an understatement. More like spackle. Could've been a bad batch, or some that sat too long in a hot truck or warehouse.
 

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I do'nt if yours was bad ink or not I have some that is thick as mud and has clumps in it. Iknow the ink about a year old. did a job at the last minute and had all kinds of problems looking to toss that out and replace it


jim
 

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Discussion Starter #5
After may last post. i decided to try and print something with it. I had a stencil from my last job laying around and a shop shirt. The ink is super thick and hard to flood but it made a opaque print in 1 hit. I guess it is suppose to be like that. Other than being tough to flood is was fairly easy to print.
 

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That's the way the ink was developed, to be super thick, so it can be super opaque. I know it's the ink manufacturers goal to achieve that perfect combination of opacity and creamyness, but there is a tradeoff, you can't have an ink that can be considered opaque with one hit without it being just a little difficult to work with.

I've been using the maxo inks for several years now. I put about 3% of curable reducer to each gallon when I get it and it does loosen it up enough without losing very much of it's opacity. I have tried many different combinations and reducer and soft hand and the soft hand makes it loose too much opacity compared to reducer. But don't reduce it too much, or you'll be defeating the whole purpose of the ink, maximum opacity.
 

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There's a difference between "super-thick" and ink that comes out of the bucket like a lump of clay. I've got a partial gallon of Union's EZ Print Low Bleed White that's been sitting unused for about 3 years but I got it up to working speed with a drill and paddle. Added 15% curable reducer to print a fleece job, and the stuff is almost runny, but printed with surprising opacity. That's super-thick. The Royal Blue Maxopake I had that went bad was so thick you could barely stick a steel putty knife blade into it, much less start to stir it. Get a paddle on a rod into it and chuck it into an electric drill and you'd have a lethal weapon.
 

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I print with Union maxopake Scarlet Red, Aqua Marine, Brite Blue and love the stuff! I dont mix it since its so thick and never had a problem. You'll get use to flooding the stuff and it covers well.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I printed 30 shirts with this ink yesterday. Its great! It was a lot easier than the International Coatings ink that I have been using. So far I am glad I made the switch to Union Ink.
 

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I printed 30 shirts with this ink yesterday. Its great! It was a lot easier than the International Coatings ink that I have been using. So far I am glad I made the switch to Union Ink.

I did the same a little over a year ago and haven't looked back. Their ultra soft colors for light shirts are good too. I started off with quarts just to test it out, but now I buy by the gallons.
 

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I recently received a quart of poly golden yellow and it was way too thick. I mixed it with a drill for about 20 minutes before giving up. I contacted my rep and gave him the batch #. Union shipped me a free quart and it was as creamy as could be out of the can. I have had this issue a few times. I now buy from union and have no more problems.
 

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The Maxopake line varies a ton. Kelly green is the thickest I've ever found, while others are not thick enough to be what I'd consider opaque.
Always stir your inks first, even if it's difficult. They're thixotropic, so they'll soften up a little as you stir, then get thick again as they sit.
Dan
AcmePrints.com

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As a newbie ... I see that the thicker the ink = more opacity. However, as a rule of thumb, how thick should the ink be? When I scoop it out - should the ink fall off the spatula or should I have to scrap it off onto my squeege? Thanks and appreciate reading everyone's posts.
 

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As a newbie ... I see that the thicker the ink = more opacity. However, as a rule of thumb, how thick should the ink be? When I scoop it out - should the ink fall off the spatula or should I have to scrap it off onto my squeege? Thanks and appreciate reading everyone's posts.
Well, thickness doesn't always mean opaque, but for the sake of this argument, it's a really good sign of an opaque ink. I don't like my inks to run off the spatula. I like them to be short bodied and fairly thick. Short bodied means that it doesn't act like chewed gum when you try to stretch it, it breaks apart from itself really easily and doesn't stretch. Union's maxopaque, qcm xolb and ultrasol are 3 lines of ink that are thick, opaque and short bodied that I really like. They don't print wet on wet very well however and tend to stick to the back of the next screen in the rotation and build up, affecting your print negatively.
 
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