currently using an oki 8432 .. i have forever laser dark and not too happy with the hand feel and how easy it cracks.. wanting something more durable.. any suggestions???
my niece recently played in a soccer tournament and bought a transfer for me to press on a shirt for her.. it wasn't a transfer that you marry and i thought it could have been a plastol screen print transfer but once i pressed it the color of the image stayed on the paper like a sublimation product would do but felt thicker with more substance than the forever paper feels. it had an awesome ability to stretch and was a hot peel. the back of the paper had no brand markings on it .. the edge however seemed to have an opaque outline around the design.. i'm newer to transfers so could anyone help me out?
I recently got some free samples from a plastol transfer company to compare. it feels similar but not exact.. this company sent me one transfer that appeared to be more of a digital image with a white backing.. i asked them if it was made with a printer or weather it was a plastol transfer.. they said it was a plastol transfer but it had a white backing like it went through a marrying process unlike some of the other transfers that really looked like a plastol transfer.. i will check out the shock line paper. even with using the rip i'm not thrilled with forever paper.
The white backing is screen-printed plastisol and adhesive.
The image itself is solvent ink, and depending on the quantity to be printed, it can be offset printed, or digitally printed using solvent-based printers.
It is not a viable method for one-off designs, and it does require considerable space and equipment.
Brenda, I use 375F for 30 sec. with heavy pressure. Peel Hot, Cover the transfer on the shirt with a teflon sheet and repress for another 30 seconds. Remove the teflon after a couple of seconds and you get a very beautiful smooth transfer. I nhave also found that 100% cotton Ring Spun shirts are the best shirts for this transfer.
First of all look at the process you are trying to make a transfer with.
Oki copied a process that I first developed in 2006 a couple of years later for this application.
I found out that after many trials and errors the main problem with the toners cracking is what the toners are comprised of. PLASTIC RESINS. What happens when you melt plastic? What happens when it then COOLS. It gets brittle and CRACKS.
The Oki process they copied will never work.
I patented in May 2014 a process that uses white toner sparingly and sublimation ink for the colors so it doesn,t crack and washes well. Oh you can also put it in the drier unlike one Oki dealer states to only hang dry.
It isn,t your paper that is the problem it is the process materials you are using. TONERS.
Al, if you are heating at 375 for 30 seconds, then you are only doing these transfers for cotton garments. Is that correct? Do you think poly shirts can stand that temp? I would like to know your success with blends and polys. Thanks.
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