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Discussion Starter #1
I was looking at getting some more ink jet transparencies for my epson stylus 1280. I was looking around and I found some Hammermill transparencies that were pretty cheap. I was wondering if I need a certain quality transparency for screenprinting or if any quality should work.


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You need a film designed for film positives. Transparencies do not accept enough ink coverage to make a good opaque film. God Bless.
 

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I believe that the ones that hammermill makes are Overhead projector transparencies. They are meant to hold just enough ink so that you can still project light through them to use for presentations and such.
I would think that this wouldn't be optimal for making film positives and probably not a wise choice for using with epson printers.

have you tried victoryfactory, Ryonet, or a host of other sites for positive films??:
Film and Supplies | Screen Printing | Victory Factory
Ryonet WaterProof Film, WP Positive Film, Inkjet Film Positive
Film Direct

that's just a few sites... You can probably find that any silk screening supplier will carry them.
 

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Just for reference, I print my transparencies using an Epson R1800, and in order to get truely opaque transparencies for quality burned screens, I use Ryonet Transparency film, layer 2 transparencies and print on each transparency twice.

I wish it were easier to get truly opaque films but right now this is the best method I have. The transparencies are expensive but its cheaper than washing out and re-coating screens after unsuccessful burns.

Maybe this will help you.
 

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Just for reference, I print my transparencies using an Epson R1800, and in order to get truely opaque transparencies for quality burned screens, I use Ryonet Transparency film, layer 2 transparencies and print on each transparency twice.

I wish it were easier to get truly opaque films but right now this is the best method I have. The transparencies are expensive but its cheaper than washing out and re-coating screens after unsuccessful burns.

Maybe this will help you.

you print on each transparency twice then stack 2 together? so 4 prints??
Do you just feed the transparency back in and it prints in the exact same spot each time?
I have never tried that. I have a weak light source and I can achieve a solid burn even when I mess up and print the wrong colors because of the Anti-UV ink. I usually print the colors as registration colors, but I messed up and printed from illustrator with a muddy black that printed almost green and I still got a solid burn from it.

Oh.... and I have an Epson 1400 with Generic Anti-UV dye based Refillable Ink and Carts from Supertobuy.com
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well I know that a lot of things in the screen printing industry they say that you need special things for the job. When in reality there is no difference between their product and the generic brand. The thing that doesn't make sense to me is that the settings on my printer are going to be the same so how can the transparency accept more ink in my printer isn't putting out more ink.


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Jmar: The ink could bleed if you don't use waterproof film. Most overhead films aren't waterproof.
If they were waterproof(which I have seen some) That might be worth a try.

I just found these online and I am considering picking them up because of the price:
Multi-Purpose Transparency Film - Inkjet Transparencies - Transparencies

With them being "quick Dry" I would think they accept ink like the films that are meant specifically for film positives.

I do know that normal overhead projector films aren't the same. I used to buy regular transparency films when I had a crappy printer and I know they wouldn't work very well now that I have an Epson 1400. They would probably bleed and also smear up the printheads and/or cause a mess in the printer. Not worth the risk to me.
 

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you print on each transparency twice then stack 2 together? so 4 prints??
Do you just feed the transparency back in and it prints in the exact same spot each time?
I have never tried that. I have a weak light source and I can achieve a solid burn even when I mess up and print the wrong colors because of the Anti-UV ink. I usually print the colors as registration colors, but I messed up and printed from illustrator with a muddy black that printed almost green and I still got a solid burn from it.

Oh.... and I have an Epson 1400 with Generic Anti-UV dye based Refillable Ink and Carts from Supertobuy.com
Yes, in effect, my method is equal to 4 prints worth of ink. Feeding a printed transparency through the printer for a second identical print will almost always work flawlessly so long as the paper feeder is tight to the paper. I use standard inkjet inks rather than anti UV specialty inks so this is probably why I need to do things this way. When I run out of my ink supply I will try some of the uv-resistant inks you have success with :]
 

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If you count the cost of multiple transparancies, extra time printing them, and loss of detail in burning screens, you are just buying headaches when you could get perfect film every time with inkjet film.
 

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Yes, in effect, my method is equal to 4 prints worth of ink. Feeding a printed transparency through the printer for a second identical print will almost always work flawlessly so long as the paper feeder is tight to the paper. I use standard inkjet inks rather than anti UV specialty inks so this is probably why I need to do things this way. When I run out of my ink supply I will try some of the uv-resistant inks you have success with :]

your printer is meant to use Pigment ink. I would keep it that way, but I have heard that most of the epson printers can be switched from dye-based to pigment-based and vice versa with minimal or no problems.

I am considering buying the Workforce 1100 because it is pigment based ink so I can start doing heat transfers and possibly sublimation. It also only has 5 cartridges and only 4 colors (CMYK and an extra K cartridge).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Is my epson stylus 1280 ideal for printing screen printing transparencies. I think the ink is oem with nothing changed. I was using the local staples to get laser printed transparencies that provided a good opaque film. Do you think I should be buying opaque ink for my printer?


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the 1280 has basically been replaced by the 1400.
The stock ink for the 1280 is high quality photographic dye based ink. IT doesn't say anything about that specific ink being UV resistant so it probably won't work as well as the 1400 Claria Ink system.

It is worth a try. If you have a RIP it probably won't matter which ink you have as you can lay down more ink to create a more opaque film.
You can probably by claria style ink for your 1280 in refillable cartridge format or CIS systems. I tried to look through the site I go to for my ink for my 1400, but they only offer the photographic dye based ink for the 1280 and I don't see an option for the Claria Style UV Ink.

There might be a BlackMax system for the 1280, but I haven't checked.
 

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I have an r1800 I bought a continous ink system from eBay put some dye ink in it and it prints nice no problem... There so dark I can Barly see through it even next to a 100 watt light.. I just purchased a brand new 4800 and did same but I bought refillable 250 ml carts and it's is beast .. I fill it with the same dye ink I use waterproof film from ryonet and now I get the 17 in roll from eBay of waterproof film it worked good first time I used it last night ... Albie
 

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I may be on my own here, but I actually use 3m overhead projecter films and get extremely accurate half tones, burns, and washouts. They cost me about .75 each, and then I print them on our production digital copier, which is way overkill, but since we're a quick printer already why spend another couple grand I don't have to.

Laser prints CAN make good transparencies, espcially on cheap laser print transparency material, but you have to understand your printers rich black workflow, and know how heavily you can overprint your work.

We print them at 100% rich black, 115% dark, print finish face up so it won't crack, and unfortunately need to use ones with a sensing strip so the printer can see the film. My total cost for an 11x17 printed in color (rich black) is about .80, instead of the ink methods that I've looked at that are more like $4.00, however I can't print those big 18x24 range films.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah I got my prints done at staples on their big laser printer and It seemed to have a nice opaque finish. Some people say that the heat from the laser printers can warp the transparency and mess up your screen. How does your printer work with 3 and 4 color jobs?


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