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correct. the reason i like IA Light when using white ink is because some RIPs today don't put any white ink under black ink. the problem with this is that the "dark" shirt pretreats are designed to hold white ink, and then the cmyk bonds to the white. however, when white ink isn't present, (under black ink), there tends to be increased fading of the black ink after washing.

since IA Light keeps cmyk vivid even after washing, AND it holds white ink, it is the best of both worlds. like i said before, though, i haven't tested IA Light on anything darker than charcoal. other printers are getting good results on navy and black shirts, so it must be possible. i suggest to do your own testing so you know what works best in your environment.

new correction:

IA Light on Dark Blue Navy = need more than 50ml pretreat to get solid white, i can still get decent white on 30ml, but there will some area with low opacity white like not enough pretreat, so safe one is 50ml

IA Dark on Dark Blue Navy = need arround 30-35ml for my shirt

to Brian: are this normal? so i guess realy need to stick for dark pretreat for Dark Garment..... are IA Light have diffrent formula or something?



but since i printing Black on Dark Navy..... i have no choice to use IA light.... i use Khotari RIP too.... no white ink under black


here are the result on dark Navy, using Light IA 40ml
this is after 1 wash

notice some are didint have enough coverage, if using dark IA coverage of white ink are better.....
 

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Am I the only one who is less than thrilled with Image Armour? We used IA dark on some black shirts with a red, white & black image. The first trip through the Epson 2000 gave a speckeled image. It was a PC61 but we pressed it well before printing and had good results before. More pretreat seemed to cure the problem and we got a lovely image but the shirt could stand by itself. We then put the same image on a stonewashed green pc61 using IA dark with dismal results. The pretreat turned a dull tan color stain on the shirt that didn't wash out and the print was dull as well - even the black had a sort of tan shadow. We use Sanmar PC150 (ring spun cotton) mostly when available but some colors are not available. We have had good prints before with the stonewashed green PC61.

We tried both drying the shirts in a dryer cabinet (which has always worked with Anajet), hang drying at room temp for a day, and the suggested method of drying using a heat press. The heat press method seems long and cumbersom especially if you have 50+ shirts to do. Needing two types of pretreat (light & dark) is also cumbersom because I need two applicators, either a cabinet at over $3000 or another Wagner sprayer. We always press shirts regardless of color at least 1 minute before printing. Also there is a risk of scorching a white or light shirt by pressing while wet.

We switched to the Epson 2000 because of the reformulated white ink and the promise of lovely prints and great tech support. Both have been somewhat less than perfect.

I see there is now the Image Armour Ultra. Can it be used on both light and dark? I assume it is formulated to be used with Epson ink. Shall we try it or go to something else entirely? We haven't used the Epson pretreat because we don't want to spend $300 on a cube if it is less than satisfactory.

I would appreciate input from the forum.
 

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NWNative

ULTRA works best with the Epson printer ink sets, definitely. The DARK will work, but will not provide optimal results.

Sorry for not replying soon, I didn't see any emails from TSF saying this thread was added to.... :(

I wouldn't recommend IA LIGHT on Dark Navy shirts.... hence my mantra of the LIGHT shirt formula is designed for mid-light colored shirts to white shirts. The DARK is good for mid-dark to BLACK shirts.

The other comment is that the DARK formula needs to have white applied to it. Trying to just print CMYK on the DARK shirt formula will not provide optimal results. HOWEVER, the LIGHT shirt formula allows for CMYK directly printed onto the shirt or WHITE ink and then CMYK.... that's the beauty of IA LIGHT Shirt Formula.
 

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Brian,
Having read all 46 pages on this topic, I have learned a lot, mostly I have used IA wrong in air drying. Have just completed some kiwi green using IA dark cured properly via heat. They came our exceptionally well. I have seen the light....

I saw on your site and this blog you used the Jerzee 29m 50/50's, I have liked and had good results with the Jerzee 363m shirts. Have you tried this one?

Plan to experiment with the poly soon. :)
 

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I know this has been discussed before but I thought I'd take the easy way out and ask the question here... Maybe it will help somebody out.

Every once in a while, we'll print a shirt with a heavy white ink underbase where after curing, you'll see the white showing through the CMYK color. It appears that the color layer has shrunk, like cracking paint, and exposes the white under base (on a very small scale.) I think I've seen it described as "splitting" maybe in the Firebird Ink thread.

My guess is that the WUB is "sitting up" too much and perhaps not fully gelling before the color goes over it. If that's the case then perhaps in the cure process (350 hover for 60 seconds and medium press for 60 seconds) the color on top is skinning over and shrinking creating micro cracks to expose the WUB?

Is that what's happening and how do you avoid this?

Thoughts on how to solve include:
  • Lower white ink density
  • Decrease Pretreat
  • Pause longer between WUB and CMYK

Details:
Dupont INK set
MOD-1
Image Armor Dark and/or Dupont
 

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Figured I'd bring this thread back to life, as last week we developed a process for printing white ink on polyester fabrics utilizing Image Armor LIGHT Shirt Formula. This is a picture of 5x washing on a ATHLETIC GOLD.....

The process on how to do this is relatively simple, but needs to be followed to get good results. See this link to learn the process.
Note: This is not for BLACK Polyester or REDS, but a lot of colors will work. We will be posting more images as I get them, but below are some additional shirts we've printed.
 

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Just finished with the 10X Washing and printing a variety of other items..... some came out really cool. We'll have all the samples at the Ft Worth show this week so make sure to stop by check these out...
 

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Just finished with the 10X Washing and printing a variety of other items..... some came out really cool. We'll have all the samples at the Ft Worth show this week so make sure to stop by check these out...

Brian,

Looks very good. I'm sure we'll start seeing some of our customers trying it out on their Epson F2000 printers using the Epson inks. I am pretty sure the results will be the same.

_
 

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They MUST follow our procedures for printing this.... otherwise, bleeding will occur and not give an acceptable print.
Is there any of your pretreats toxic? IA Light or IA ULTRA? I tried looking at IA MSDS, but honestly I wouldn't know what I'd be looking for. I figured I'd ask you personally. I'm more worried about inhaling it when spraying and heat pressing.

Thanks
 

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I would be more worried about inhaling the burn off from the dyes of the shirt in an enclosed room.

Best situation is to both PT and cure the PT/Inks in an extremely well ventilated room (again dye burn off can create a nice smog). In rare cases some people might get a reaction, but that's why we recommend mask and gloves.

There are no heavy metals, lead, etc in our PT.
 
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