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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We have a used late model 2005/2006 Tajima 2 head we bought about two years ago. My wife early on ran a hoop under it and broke the reciprocator. I replaced that. But one of the takeup levers had moved in relation to the other one. I presume one of them slipped on the shaft.
I aligned the two with where I thought they should be and the machine stitches fine. We just have a lot of thread breaks, especially on Rayon thread. Every 2,000 to 3,000 stitches. We had two "Service Tech" in, both independent, but they don't know how to adjust this either or they said it "looked" okay to them. We have the rotary hooks timed to give us good tension and we use a tension gage on the top thread.
Specifically, does anyone know how to adjust the takeup levers relative to the needle position and the degree wheel? We presume this is the major reason for thread breaking. When we first got it, again it was used, and I believe the rotaary hooks were not adjusted properly, as the bobbin threads were not real tight.
Anybody can help, I would appreciate it.
Hogwild Imprints


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Firstly, are the thread breaks only happening on this head and this needle that had the reciprocator problem?
If not, then it is probably not the take up lever at fault.

Rotary hook timing doesn't affect thread tension as such.
Thread tension is adjusted by the upper tensioners at the top of the head.
Bobbin tension is adjusted by the screw on the side of the bobbin case.
Together these adjustments give you the 1/3,1/3,1/3 we all look for on the back of embroidery.

Rotary hook timing affects the machines ability to form a stitch.
If timing is out, you will get skipped stitches or lots of thread breaks/fraying.

Not only is timing on the hook important, where the point of the hook sits behind the needle. The distance the point of the hook is from the needle is important as well.

Your manual should have hook timing settings as well as the hook to needle distance. This is achieved undoing the lock screws and sliding the hook assembly forward or back along the drive shaft until the hook is at the right distance, at the same time you need to keep the point at the right position behind the needle. Sounds tricky, but it is not really.
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