Pre-press the item covered with a white polyester fabric for the same dwell time you'd use on the print. Your images will be sharp and you will never have ghosting. Though some fabrics will keep shrinking and require more than one pre-press, particularly wovens.
Tacky paper causing bleeding
Just purchased 100g tacky paper but its not printing very crisp. It bleeds as well. Mostly the black. Ive tried several different settings on wasatch softrip but no luck. (720by 720, 1440 by1440, fixed dot, variable dot, super fine &weave bi-directional, uni-directional). It even causes my black to almost run on the paper.
When I use 95g regular transfer paper its very crisp but ghosting is something I have not been able to overcome so I stopped buying it. I press sports apparel. Thanks in advance
When I use 95g regular transfer paper its very crisp but ghosting is something I have not been able to overcome so I stopped buying it. I press sports apparel. Thanks in advance
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Really! so same idea as if I were removing any moisture from the fabric but longer time?Pre-press the item covered with a white polyester fabric for the same dwell time you'd use on the print. Your images will be sharp and you will never have ghosting. Though some fabrics will keep shrinking and require more than one pre-press, particularly wovens.
Do I cover the poly fabric with paper etc? Thanks will try that.
It is not necessary to cover the poly fabric with any paper. If you get a plain woven poly fabric ie: table cloth type weight, it keeps the substrate clean while you pre-press. This in effect is pre-shrinking the substrate, hence the pre-press for the same dwell as the actual print dwell. If you do the pre-press for less time, the substrate may still shrink more. I work extensively with both knits and wovens in a cut and sew factory and both can and will shrink to varying degrees. I don't work with pre-made garments, so I pre-shrink all panels/fabrics, just in case, since I don't know the extent to which mills have treated their fabrics.
Alright thanks appreciate all the details
Have you tried using Spray Tack with the 95g regular transfer paper to keep it from moving and causing ghosting? Spray the garment with spray tack, lay it to the transfer paper, cover with your scrap paper and press....When I use 95g regular transfer paper its very crisp but ghosting is something I have not been able to overcome so I stopped buying it. I press sports apparel. Thanks in advance
When doing apparel, I've never used tacky paper. I only use spray tack and it works very well with no ghosting.
You can spray the transfer paper if the spray has a clean mist. Don't spray the transfer paper if your spray can's nozzle is clogged and spurts out. It can leave blobs of tack on the transfer and you'll potentially see it on the garment.
Actually Ive only learnt this recently. I purchased Aleene's tacky spray and it worked really well. Saved me as all i had was non tacky paper and had a job to finish.Have you tried using Spray Tack with the 95g regular transfer paper to keep it from moving and causing ghosting? Spray the garment with spray tack, lay it to the transfer paper, cover with your scrap paper and press.
When doing apparel, I've never used tacky paper. I only use spray tack and it works very well with no ghosting.
You can spray the transfer paper if the spray has a clean mist. Don't spray the transfer paper if your spray can's nozzle is clogged and spurts out. It can leave blobs of tack on the transfer and you'll potentially see it on the garment.
My only concern was sometimes I have to press hundreds of pieces and this stuff is $10 a can where Im at.
My order of 8 rolls of tacky paper came in but its bleeding too much. Its not crisp printing. It is possible my printer needs servicing as I dont recall this happening before. Thanks again
You may need to profile this paper. You are putting down too much ink. If that isn't the case, the paper itself could be the issue.Just purchased 100g tacky paper but its not printing very crisp. It bleeds as well. Mostly the black. Ive tried several different settings on wasatch softrip but no luck. (720by 720, 1440 by1440, fixed dot, variable dot, super fine &weave bi-directional, uni-directional). It even causes my black to almost run on the paper....
"Ink almost running on paper...." that is a lot of ink on any type of paper. Hmmm
I think you are exactly right. This paper did not do this few weeks ago. I had the printer unplugged for a day and i was cleaning the capping station, wiper and my head then it started doing this. In my wasatch my ink output is set to only 250 which is less than recommended by wasatch. Just confused why this changed just by unplugging the printer. My profile was made by third party so I will have to contact them again. thanksYou may need to profile this paper. You are putting down too much ink. If that isn't the case, the paper itself could be the issue.
"Ink almost running on paper...." that is a lot of ink on any type of paper. Hmmm
This is a very interesting situation.
Almost most of my work is on fabric, usually existing garments, flags, micro fibre cleaning cloths, scarves - that sort of thing.
Since I have a virtually 100% success rate, which means, no loss of clarity, no ghosting, no transfer lines, no spray blobs or any defects of any sort and don't do any of the fiddling about suggested here, I suggest with all due respect that your attempted failed solutions are all experiences which you will come to realize taught you what not to do.
There was a time that fabric sublimation was quite the challenge for me as well. Read extremely high failure rate. However, I took a logical approach and tried a bunch of things, documenting the results. Where I saw improvement, that process was built upon.
What you could really use to speed things up in developing your skill is someone in your area who does fabric well and is willing to show you how by doing an actual demo at your place with your equipment. There are lots of variables which are fine points to ensure your work is great and not just OK.
Once you develop the skill, it becomes mechanical. Just repeat as often as required and enjoy the perfect results. You don't earn any money from the duds, only the successes.
Almost most of my work is on fabric, usually existing garments, flags, micro fibre cleaning cloths, scarves - that sort of thing.
Since I have a virtually 100% success rate, which means, no loss of clarity, no ghosting, no transfer lines, no spray blobs or any defects of any sort and don't do any of the fiddling about suggested here, I suggest with all due respect that your attempted failed solutions are all experiences which you will come to realize taught you what not to do.
There was a time that fabric sublimation was quite the challenge for me as well. Read extremely high failure rate. However, I took a logical approach and tried a bunch of things, documenting the results. Where I saw improvement, that process was built upon.
What you could really use to speed things up in developing your skill is someone in your area who does fabric well and is willing to show you how by doing an actual demo at your place with your equipment. There are lots of variables which are fine points to ensure your work is great and not just OK.
Once you develop the skill, it becomes mechanical. Just repeat as often as required and enjoy the perfect results. You don't earn any money from the duds, only the successes.
Very well said couldnt agree more. But its not that easy to get help. My area nobody is doing this. Atleast not sports apparel. Few that do outsource from larger companies and or China.This is a very interesting situation.
Almost most of my work is on fabric, usually existing garments, flags, micro fibre cleaning cloths, scarves - that sort of thing.
Since I have a virtually 100% success rate, which means, no loss of clarity, no ghosting, no transfer lines, no spray blobs or any defects of any sort and don't do any of the fiddling about suggested here, I suggest with all due respect that your attempted failed solutions are all experiences which you will come to realize taught you what not to do.
There was a time that fabric sublimation was quite the challenge for me as well. Read extremely high failure rate. However, I took a logical approach and tried a bunch of things, documenting the results. Where I saw improvement, that process was built upon.
What you could really use to speed things up in developing your skill is someone in your area who does fabric well and is willing to show you how by doing an actual demo at your place with your equipment. There are lots of variables which are fine points to ensure your work is great and not just OK.
Once you develop the skill, it becomes mechanical. Just repeat as often as required and enjoy the perfect results. You don't earn any money from the duds, only the successes.
Where are you currently pressing? It could be your environment or could even be your heat press. I never had any issues using tacky paper but maybe the amount of ink set with Wasatch caused everything. Did you ever get your ghosting resolved?
I had a bad batch of paper. Ordered new paper leaving all settings same it all was good. the old papaer would not soak in the ink.Where are you currently pressing? It could be your environment or could even be your heat press. I never had any issues using tacky paper but maybe the amount of ink set with Wasatch caused everything. Did you ever get your ghosting resolved?
As for ghosting only way I can prevent this is by using tacky paper. Regular paper I cannot achieve good results.
That is great. Do you know what brand it was so we all don't make the same mistake? There are so many bad products out there that you just never know. We use TexPrint now and used Beaver Paper before for 5 years but some brands are too expensive. What are you using now?
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