Sublimating on aluminum

Denyevil said:

I am using uni sub coated aluminum sheets and sub paper for hard goods but my image isn't as vivid as I had hoped. Temp. is 400 degrees for 60 secs and I even tried 90 secs.
I'm wondering if because it's aluminum it just can't be as vivid as the material used on name plates etc? There are little clear dots in the images that look like braile dots that aren't raised. I let the ink dry before application as I was told that might be the problem.
I am trying to make sublimation signs and plaques.

PLEASE HELP! ; )

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Are you printing on the white side or the silver/metal colored side?

Thw White side.

Denyevil said:

Thw White side.

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Did you remove the protective film before you pressed it?
Should be very vivid like the FRP.

yes I did...That's why I'm confused. WHat about the pressure? I used firm pressure. I'm going to try again later tonight but I'm really confused. I'm using artanium ink. Not sure what else it could be.

I do alot of sublimation on aluminum and I'd try dropping your time down to 45 seconds.

I've never had good luck with longer dwell times. Seems to make the images/lettering less clear.

I was using a couple sheets of paper towel under the transfer paper to distribute pressure evenly and found that any decorative perforations on the towels effects the ink also. Towels work good to distribute pressure evenly just put teflon sheet on top then your transfer and aluminum.

Hope that helps.
Karen

my numbers ,low pressure , temp-380 for 60secs

Conde have a video on youtube for pressing large metals/Chromaluxe ... some interesting tips in there, if you have a look for it

400* for 40 seconds. Platen (heat) direct to aluminum (not print).

I use 50 secs at 400 deg. Very light pressure. Basically just the weight of the top platen to lock down.

What size are you having problems with? I think it may be moisture.
We did three 16x24" ones today. Started with a 18 mg photo. Printed with metal profile on hard surface paper, transfer up, metal face down, covered with smooth poly cloth, covered with craft paper, 400 degrees, 60 psi, for 90 seconds, remove metal quickly,lay flat on cement floor to cool. Client picked up all three and I pick up three stacks of cash for a few seconds worth of easy work. If I had a choice I would only print metal. I prefer printing metal that is 16"x20" or larger but the cost is much higher as well as the reject rate. The largest we have done is 36"x 60" and it was awesome.
We have also printed/press coated Steel with great results.

400 degrees, 40 - 50 seconds (more for larger pieces). From bottom platen: protective paper, image paper face up, aluminum piece face down, protective paper. Light to medium pressure. The water-spotting effect you are getting is caused by too much heat; you said these are Unisub pieces, which I don't generally have much problem with, but DynaSub will definitely be a problem if you give it too much heat. If the method described doesn't give you what you expect, try backing the heat down 10-15 degrees. Your aluminum pieces should be very vivid and bright, similar to the hardboard pieces.

Denyevil said:

I am using uni sub coated aluminum sheets and sub paper for hard goods but my image isn't as vivid as I had hoped. Temp. is 400 degrees for 60 secs and I even tried 90 secs.
I'm wondering if because it's aluminum it just can't be as vivid as the material used on name plates etc? There are little clear dots in the images that look like braile dots that aren't raised. I let the ink dry before application as I was told that might be the problem.
I am trying to make sublimation signs and plaques.

PLEASE HELP! ; )

Click to expand...

I do alot of sublimation on aluminum, but i do not have this problem.