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Stuck with halftone gradients.

851 Views 3 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  TLK
G'morning everyone,

I have been practicing halttones. I have not been able to do a decent halftone print ever. I am using Corel X6 and bought Simple Seps and Simple Seps Raster. I have watched the videos over and they have taught me quite a bit. When I print for people I am usually the one that comes up with a little spot color design or if they bring me something I can trace or recreate the design and make it work for me since all I have experience in is spot colors. I have had both SS3 & SSR for some months and have been playing around with it but not actually using it to separate clients supplied artwork. I want to grasp it better before I say I can do all these halftones and not be able to send out quality halftones. Right now I have a client that wants me to do gradients in his logo. I took his logo and added some gradients and took it into Simple Seps 3 selected the Halftone conversion with DPI 1400 Angle 22 and LPI 45. It converted it and I printed it on my transparency. It looks right. NOW. All my 230 screens were used up so I grabbed a 110. I burned it at 4mins & 20Secs. It washed out decently and I let it sit and dry. When it dried and I printed of course my dots didn't hold up most likely due to the 110. The print looks like when you dont get all the emulsion blown out of the design. Which I understand that the 110 played a part in it not holding the dots in place.

Can you guys that are pros look at the effect in the the font in the pic I attached and tell me what steps you would do? I used name ACME instead of clients logo. I have the 230 screen ready to go so thats in place. I would hate to burn my 230 screen and find the transparency is not right and take more time trying to figure that out.

The pic is attached. The background is the black shirt. I would need an underbase of white since the shirt is black and font is gradient of bright blue and also it will make the white border around the graphic. I do have a 110 already burned with the white underbase / outline.

I really appreciate any help given with my sad halftones...lol.


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If the artwork is halftoned properly then burn it on the (90t) 230 mesh. You're not gonna hold small dots on a (43t) 110 mesh, they're not for halftones. You could hold 45lpi dots on a (77t) 196 and upwards.
Tudor thank you. I hope I did halftone it properly to get that effect that I need. Thats my biggest problem is doing the halftone on the transparency. I'm going to try it once the emulsion on my 230 screen is dry.

As far as underbase, I should be ok with 110...right? Thats what I have the underbase/outline of graphic burned to.
Should be fine with that mesh for the under base yeah. As long as you can get a really smooth finish on the white, that's presuming you're flashing it then overprinting the white with the blue? I use Photoshop to do all our seps and halftone any gradients, process jobs etc. Never used Corel, so can't give any advice with artwork prep.

Best to expose with a single point light source to avoid undercutting.

You need minimal off contact for halftones.

A really good sharp hard squeegee.

Really straight well tensioned screens.

Try to use a light fast stroke with the halftone screen.

Go for it!

Post a pic up so I can see how it went man.
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