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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On this the last day of spring, I am looking for tips on keeping a clean shop.

My entire shop, especially the press, is slowly accumulating a layer adhesive residue and t-shirt lint combined.

Does anyone have some magic cleaning agent that will easily remove this annoying layer of sticky dust?
 

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Adhesive remover and a lot of elbow grease.... then ditch the spray mist and get a water based adhesive and apply it with a roller or little glue squeegee.. it will eliminate the glue mist getting everywhere and it also will last way longer than the mist... when it gets covered up with lint spray it with water scrub the lint off then flash it and it's back to New...

The only spray adhesive I use is web for sweatshirts... but even some of them I can get away with just the water based adhesive, depending on the sweatshirt..

Thanks,
Jeron
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Adhesive remover and a lot of elbow grease.... then ditch the spray mist and get a water based adhesive and apply it with a roller or little glue squeegee.. it will eliminate the glue mist getting everywhere and it also will last way longer than the mist... when it gets covered up with lint spray it with water scrub the lint off then flash it and it's back to New...

The only spray adhesive I use is web for sweatshirts... but even some of them I can get away with just the water based adhesive, depending on the sweatshirt..

Thanks,
Jeron
Just wanted you to know, we made the conversion, and we are extremely pleased with the results.
 

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Just wanted you to know, we made the conversion, and we are extremely pleased with the results.
I did this 7 years ago about 6 months after starting printing. Funny thing is I bought a starter chemical package that had it. The package came with spay adhesive and the water base had no instructions on the bottle. Textac and tecmar seem to be the best adhesives. The CCI stuff use to be great but seems the have watered it down as it use to work great for fleece. Now your lucky if it holds past the first one and only holds about 1/2 the time on tshirts.
 
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Good call on switching to the water based glue. We did it about two years ago and the shop and presses are so much easier to keep clean. Just a tip on using the water based glue, we put ours in ketchup and mustard squirters (like the ones you would use at a picnic). Bought them for a buck at Walmart, trimmed the nozzle, and just squirt some on the pallet and use an ink cart to spread the glue. We keep both on hand, one has straight glue for sweatshirts and one has a glue/water mix for tshirts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Good call on switching to the water based glue. We did it about two years ago and the shop and presses are so much easier to keep clean. Just a tip on using the water based glue, we put ours in ketchup and mustard squirters (like the ones you would use at a picnic). Bought them for a buck at Walmart, trimmed the nozzle, and just squirt some on the pallet and use an ink cart to spread the glue. We keep both on hand, one has straight glue for sweatshirts and one has a glue/water mix for tshirts.
Great advice. I must admit, I was struggling a bit with the gallon bottle! But, if I am reading your post right, you add water to the glue?

Why? To make it last longer? And, please share your formula.
 

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Great advice. I must admit, I was struggling a bit with the gallon bottle! But, if I am reading your post right, you add water to the glue?

Why? To make it last longer? And, please share your formula.
Straight glue for fleece. 70/30 glue to water, or 50/50 for tees, depending on the season and/or the water based glue brand you are using. That's my recipe.

Not to make it last longer though. The glue is pretty strong, so for tees/tanks, etc. You're wasting it using it full strength. And, most importantly (to me), the full strength glue can be quite strong. So, you might end up warping/distorting/stretching your prints and/or the garment pulling the garment of the platen.

Tekmar is the best IMHO. Just squirt a little "S" on the platen and card it on evenly. Wipe it down with a sponge when it gets too much lint and you're back to printing. If you're switching from hoodies back to tees, you can use some press wash to remove the undiluted glue and reapply with the diluted formula and start printing tees. Or, you could change your platen tape out, but I don't like wasting platen tape, so I remove the undiluted glue with press wash when it's time.

I try to batch hoodies on certain days, and tees on another. But...still gotta get that undiluted glue off when you switch to tees.
 

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The CCI AR-20 will clean the glue completely off. I do this 3-4 times before changing the tape. I'll bet I am over 10,000 shirts on my current tape.

Watering down for T's and strait for fleece is the way to go. If your using certain Gildan hoodies though I can't get more then 2 rounds no matter what brand of adhesive I am using.
 
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I will look into that AR-20, never heard of it to be honest. I've used the Franmar stuff in the past - Ickee Stickee - I think. It worked "OK" but not much better than press wash. And I always have press wash so...

American Apparel California fleece is about the same. A couple hoodies and then have to wipe it down. Sometimes re-apply more. Better than the web adhesive though. I was just burning through that stuff last winter.

I seem to change out my tape about once a month-ish, maybe longer. I hate buying it. But my last roll has lasted me going on 3 years, so maybe I shouldn't complain.
 

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the AR20 works as well as most screen wash but doesnt leave that oily residue that I always had to flash and would stink!!!!!. As for pallet tape I dont buy tape labeled for pallets. Most of it is produced by R-tape and is just relabeled medium tack application tape. Even the cheap brands work well. Ive used low tack but had to use a very light mist of spray tack. I orderd the pallet tape 1 time. when I recived there was a label on the inside of the tube. I removed and of course it look the paper of the tube off and thats when I discoverd on the back side I could read R tape 5060 I think was the number. Walked over to the vinyl cutter supplies and dang I had just paid $23 more for 4" shorter tape. maybe becase 16-18" isnt standard for vinyl? I was buying 12",15",20",24" vinyl application tape. so I just started using the 20" and 24" which is still cheaper then the 16"-18" "pallet tape"
 
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the AR20 works as well as most screen wash but doesnt leave that oily residue that I always had to flash and would stink!!!!!. As for pallet tape I dont buy tape labeled for pallets. Most of it is produced by R-tape and is just relabeled medium tack application tape. Even the cheap brands work well. Ive used low tack but had to use a very light mist of spray tack. I orderd the pallet tape 1 time. when I recived there was a label on the inside of the tube. I removed and of course it look the paper of the tube off and thats when I discoverd on the back side I could read R tape 5060 I think was the number. Walked over to the vinyl cutter supplies and dang I had just paid $23 more for 4" shorter tape. maybe becase 16-18" isnt standard for vinyl? I was buying 12",15",20",24" vinyl application tape. so I just started using the 20" and 24" which is still cheaper then the 16"-18" "pallet tape"
I'll have to try that AR20 then. The stink of the press wash, that sickly sweet citrus smell can really make me nauseous sometimes. And yeah the oil film it leaves behind...

I've looked for application tape online a couple times to save some $$$. But it appears to be pretty much the same price as the platen tape. I wonder if the online retailers have caught on and raised their prices?
 

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Used a water base for the 1st time yesterday, Wow does this stuff hold! Used it straight for Tee's but will dilute it some next time! No messy over spray, easy clean up.. Win Win :D
It does work very well! Only thing you need to watch for is when you spread it on the platens. You can sometimes spill it onto the platen edges. When you put a shirt or hoodie on the platen, it'll pick up that wet glue, usually around the waistline and it looks uh...nasty on a black garment. :) But it's also kinda tough to get off. A bit of screen opener on a scrubby sponge helps remove it from the garment. Maybe someone knows a better way to get it off?

I usually use a rag and wipe all the edges of the platens before I start printing to be safe.
 

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It does work very well! Only thing you need to watch for is when you spread it on the platens. You can sometimes spill it onto the platen edges. When you put a shirt or hoodie on the platen, it'll pick up that wet glue, usually around the waistline and it looks uh...nasty on a black garment. :) But it's also kinda tough to get off. A bit of screen opener on a scrubby sponge helps remove it from the garment. Maybe someone knows a better way to get it off?

I usually use a rag and wipe all the edges of the platens before I start printing to be safe.

USCutter - Application Tape Category. The green star I haven't used. The do have a sample roll for a few buck to try. About $46 a 100yd roll 20" wide. I have a account at a wholesale only supplier and pay around this price for the R-tape but I also have Earl Mitch rebranded application tape that performs as well as the r-tape. I have a roll from signwharehouse they gave me at a show it also works well. Prices have increased at a lot of sites. When I was doing a lot of vinyl I was buying by the case which was around $30 a roll.

The AR-20 does have some smell but you don't have to flash it. Most screen wash have the citrus added to cover the chemical smell.

You could probably get a sample of the AR20 on the cheap or free from a supplier to see if it works for you.

To remove any residue of water base adhesive a spot gun takes care of it quickly. I leave about a 1/2"- 1" all the way around the edge un glued makes taking shirts off much easier
 
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