Hi Brenda
Assuming you're using their "Aquabase" series...
You can use alternate heat sources to cure,
but you may consider evaporating the water
in the print first, then use the heat press to cure.
Thinner ink deposits won't necessarily require as much drying;
thicker layering could be dried with a blow-dryer first
to avoid any print smearing in garment handling.
FYI (mftr.directions for Aquabase)-
It is essential that the completed print is heat cured in order to maintain good wash fastness. The actual time and temperature required to dry and cure a print will vary with different heating equipment. Forced hot air systems usually work best. The print itself must reach a temperature of 275 degrees to 300 degrees Fahrenheit. Wash fastness should be checked prior to any productions runs.
Happy trails!
Assuming you're using their "Aquabase" series...
You can use alternate heat sources to cure,
but you may consider evaporating the water
in the print first, then use the heat press to cure.
Thinner ink deposits won't necessarily require as much drying;
thicker layering could be dried with a blow-dryer first
to avoid any print smearing in garment handling.
FYI (mftr.directions for Aquabase)-
It is essential that the completed print is heat cured in order to maintain good wash fastness. The actual time and temperature required to dry and cure a print will vary with different heating equipment. Forced hot air systems usually work best. The print itself must reach a temperature of 275 degrees to 300 degrees Fahrenheit. Wash fastness should be checked prior to any productions runs.
Happy trails!
