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simulated process color on 110 mesh+ pics

2150 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  BroJames
hi to all, i'm not newbie here but that's my first post , i was learning for 2 years from all of you , friends ,so thank you .:p
so, i'm started a simulated color process on 110 mesh(i know it seems crazy but i'm on SUPER shoe string budget and can't afford high mesh ) with 4 top colors and white top and underbase today,and i want all of u to tell me what's your idea about this one. and what could i do to make it better.

separated by quikseps professional and the order print was as quikseps! but the result seems a little dark and busy,isnt it ?

i used vellum and 22 lpi with 56 degrees for each screen.let me know if any additional info's required.

thanks in advance for all of your ideas and guidance.:eek:
here's the result :
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well, no feedback here?! i'm a little disappointed. if that's so bad or messed up then let me know please ! i need some professional idea from experted people. the original design has shades of sunlight under the wheels of car but i just don't know why it doesn't pop up,even though i used white highlight.
thanks in advance.
You might try posting a picture of the original file, or a screen shot of the composite file generated by QuikSeps with the shirt color and the spot colors you picked to print.
It's kind of hard to offer an opinion when for all we know it looks exactly like the original art.
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I think it's a cool image. You can see a lot of fabric texture though, and it's a bit rough, or busy, around the edges. Experiment with different settings, especially of off-contact, and maybe you could get better coverage. The roughness is probably because of the low mesh. There might be too much detail for the size of the image.
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tnx to your reply and ideas ,that was really helpful to me .:)
i have the original picture in here :


now,i know the result is no way near of original one ,but i need your opinion here . is it fine to have such a busy pics on a busy texture like that ?

thanks a ton!!!:D
I think you've lost a lot of detail due to mesh count.
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One other thing. Is the picture you posted of the print the first or second test? Sometimes it takes a few shirts to get the color to settle down. Another is your underbase. You might get more detail by doing a print/flash/print of the underbase, giving top colors a smoother surface to print on. As Boguslaw said, your mesh count/lines per inch won't hold much detail, coupled with the texture of the shirt.
Minimum mesh count should really be a 230 with a 45 line screen or so.
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One other thing. Is the picture you posted of the print the first or second test? Sometimes it takes a few shirts to get the color to settle down.
well,thank u very much tom for sharing your ideas...:)BTW i think it's the second test and yeah ,the white underbase has 1 pass not 2 passes and i added some urea stuff to that ,cause i thought it'd be helpful to keep the small dots open and it did very good. so my inks were a little thin of course not runny .does that effect on the final result ?
P.S: i believe that some one here did that impressively( it was an astronaut on surface of the moon) with the same mesh count and etc...! or i may be wrong ?:confused:
too much urea will make the ink crack
thanks sir for your reply .but how much urea i'm supposed to add to the ink in percent ? i mean ,is there a ratio or something to notice before mixing them together ?
I've used it only as a fun project. I forgot the ratio but it was a pinch for about 1/16 kg. I did not continue with it after learning that inks will crack with urea
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