Should plastisol crack after 6 months?

6887 Views 16 Replies 7 Participants Last post by BroJames, Jul 24, 2010

BroJames

Discussion Starter · Jul 21, 2010 (Edited)

It has always been my understanding that a properly cured plastisol will not crack for the life of the shirt. Cracking, to my mind, is an indication of possible undercuring. Cracking after several washes indicates improper curing.

I posted just yesterday that the plastisol print of a rubber shoe on my son's pants cracking after 4 months or so. This is the image

(Added July 22, 2010)

Yesterday evening, we discovered that another plastisol print started to crack. This one is about 7 months old.

Front

Back

Our imported shirts from Thailand also has a tendency to crack after a few months.

So what's the real deal on plastisols? What are the other possible reasons why they crack after 4 or more months of 3-4 washes per month?

See less See more

3

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

bebo

· #2 · Jul 21, 2010

its only natural

BroJames

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jul 21, 2010

bebo said:
its only natural

Sometime back, I have been told by a local printer that plastisols should not crack. However, some local printers also say it is normal for plastisol to crack over time. But I also vaguely remember having read not too long ago, someone posting that his plastisol shirts have not yet cracked after more than 100 washes. Washed weekly that should be about 2 years.

If plastisols do crack after prolonged washes, how many washes before cracking makes a good plastisol print?

mikelmorgan

· #4 · Jul 21, 2010

How many licks does it take to get to the center of a tootsie pop? If the ink is properly cured it should never crack. In theory anyway. If you have a heavy ink deposit (it looks like that print did) it may seemed cured. My bet is that it is not. Thick ink takes longer to cure than thin. I see shirts we printed years ago on employees and friends and found this to be the standard. If I'm printing a thick deposit of ink on a shirt I will slow the oven down. It has fixed this problem for me.

BroJames

Discussion Starter · #5 · Jul 22, 2010

mikelmorgan said:
How many licks does it take to get to the center of a tootsie pop? If the ink is properly cured it should never crack. In theory anyway. If you have a heavy ink deposit (it looks like that print did) it may seemed cured. My bet is that it is not. Thick ink takes longer to cure than thin. I see shirts we printed years ago on employees and friends and found this to be the standard. If I'm printing a thick deposit of ink on a shirt I will slow the oven down. It has fixed this problem for me.

Mike, so based on your experience, properly cured inks shouldn't crack at least those a few years old? So they should last at least 100-150 washes?

This is the shoe image I mentioned

For inks this thick(it is printed on jeans), what temp and dwell time would you suggest?

See less See more

chard

· #6 · Jul 22, 2010

like bebo said, all prints will eventually cracked regardless if its properly cured or not..the only difference is the duration before it cracks..cured inks will take longer time before it cracks compared to uncured ones..quality of inks will also be a factor..some inks will last longer compared to others..as to number of washes i have no idea..i think only few people will try to monitor these variable especially to that extent (100 washes++)..

BroJames

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jul 22, 2010

chard said:
like bebo said, all prints will eventually cracked regardless if its properly cured or not..the only difference is the duration before it cracks..cured inks will take longer time before it cracks compared to uncured ones..quality of inks will also be a factor..some inks will last longer compared to others..as to number of washes i have no idea..i think only few people will try to monitor these variable especially to that extent (100 washes++)..

Wouldn't uncured plastisols wash out before it has the chance to crack? Whether people monitor the number of washes before plastisols crack or not is irrelevant.

Setting aside all those variables, and focusing on curing, what is the proper curing method (including temp and time) and if properly cured, what is the most reasonable expectation (time or number of washes) for plastisols to last or to crack?

mikelmorgan

· #8 · Jul 22, 2010

We use a temp probe to measure our temperatures. I hear a lot of people using a temp gun. A prob is a lot more accurate. The thing is, is the ink cured all the way through. If the surface gets cured and the middle or under most part of the ink has not reached the desired temperature it will crack. Ask an ink specialist. I have talked to several and I hear the same story. If the ink is cured correctly, IT WILL NOT CRACK. Now over time it may crack depending on washing procedures, but my experience is that if it is cured correctly after a couple of years of wearing it will not crack. If I remember I will take some photos of shirts that fit that category.

out da box

· #9 · Jul 22, 2010

those pictured shirts have a heavy ink deposit... probably wasn't cured 100%. At any rate 100 washes is enough for me.
I have had shirts that my pop printed on inferior equipment with heavy ink and cured on a flash dryer that have lasted for 15 years, with no cracks.

BroJames

Discussion Starter · #10 · Jul 23, 2010 (Edited)

mikelmorgan said:
We use a temp probe to measure our temperatures. I hear a lot of people using a temp gun. A prob is a lot more accurate. The thing is, is the ink cured all the way through. If the surface gets cured and the middle or under most part of the ink has not reached the desired temperature it will crack. Ask an ink specialist. I have talked to several and I hear the same story. If the ink is cured correctly, IT WILL NOT CRACK. Now over time it may crack depending on washing procedures, but my experience is that if it is cured correctly after a couple of years of wearing it will not crack. If I remember I will take some photos of shirts that fit that category.

How fast does a temp probe react to temp changes and how much does it cost?

Aside from wash test and during the curing process, is there any way to test if the curing temp penetrates all the way through? Something like 320F for N seconds>

out da box said:
those pictured shirts have a heavy ink deposit... probably wasn't cured 100%. At any rate 100 washes is enough for me.
I have had shirts that my pop printed on inferior equipment with heavy ink and cured on a flash dryer that have lasted for 15 years, with no cracks.

I do suspect undercuring as some printers insisted that a full cure can be achieved with a 10-15 second flash. I argued that most dryers require a 25-30 second(or more) dwell time. My argument was dismissed as erroneous even if even such information can be freely found in several sources. Workhorse even recommended 45seconds with ink temp at 330-340F. It does seem that with a flashcure at least 45 seconds is required to full cure plastisol.

So gleaned from what has been achieved in real life, as a general rule and at least in theory, plastisol prints should never crack if washed and ironed properly. Plastisols holding up to 100 washes, or about 2 years of weekly wash, is achievable if plastisol is properly cured. Using 2 years or 100 washes should be a very reasonable and realistic minimum standard for plastisol durability and proper curing.

I will be using the information from the following videos as guide and hope to have a better cure.

Vastex EconoRed II
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHz-zYVEtCQ[/media]25 seconds dwell time at 750F on heating element 2-1/2 inches off shirt (ink surface temp at 370-380F)

Powerhorse Quartz 5217
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJoeiavaUDQ&feature=related[/media]45 seconds dwell time at 320F measured at shirt level (ink surface temp at 330-340F)

See less See more

BroJames

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jul 23, 2010

Mike, I just googled and it seems what I've been using is a simple temp probe. Problem is when the readings read 320F, for example, the actual temp would have reached 320F for quite a number of seconds. Are the ones you are using more sensitive to temp changes?

hempistheanswer

· #12 · Jul 23, 2010

There are many variable to take into account.
* 1st is the temperature correct
* 2nd are you using the proper mesh
* 3rd is the ink a well known reputable brand
* 4th did you cure it properly
* 5th ink saturation
* 6th have you tested the washing punishment before.

It is not rare to get a print that will outlive the shirt. I've had prints that looked as good the first day as they did the last. It takes time but you'll get their. I'll give you a little tip look for additives that aid in helping inks become more elastic that sometimes helps.

BroJames

Discussion Starter · #13 · Jul 23, 2010

Omar, that's not my print. It's my son's shirt and pants

STRAIGHT EDGE AU

· #14 · Jul 23, 2010

I have been printing with plastosol transfers since 2000 all types flat and puff.They will all wear eventually depending on how they are washed.However one of your images looked like the fabric was ribbed ,strechy surfaces will crack more than heavy quality brushed 100% cotton will.Also different types of transfers require different heat and time,it takes pactice ,I always found the thick puff one a little harder and would mess a few up if not concentrating on my timeing.Wash care dose play a big part and plastosol will wear out before screen printing or DTG as it is adhering to a surface.Heat press your surface first then heat press the tranfer while surface is still hot from a pre press, it gives a better press.
Hope this helps,Cheers Lorraine.

BroJames

Discussion Starter · #15 · Jul 23, 2010

Lorraine, is there any chance that the prints in the pics are plastisol transfers? The shoes are printed on "jeans" so it is essentially not stretchable. We also machine wash them inside out with no bleach, no softener, no heat, etc.

And on plastisol transfers, someone just PMed me a few hours ago regarding plastisol transfers and maybe you can shed some light. He is asking "if plastisol transfers have comparable quality to regular screen printing(of plastisol) directly onto the garment".

mikelmorgan

· #16 · Jul 23, 2010

BroJames said:
Mike, I just googled and it seems what I've been using is a simple temp probe. Problem is when the readings read 320F, for example, the actual temp would have reached 320F for quite a number of seconds. Are the ones you are using more sensitive to temp changes?

The probe I use is very accurate and sensitive. Wilflex makes and sells it. I have had it for 10 years or more. It goes through the oven with the shirts and reads instantly. As the shirt goes through the probe will tell how hot it gets and how long it is at that temp.

BroJames

Discussion Starter · #17 · Jul 24, 2010

Thanks. I will try inquire with wilflex reps here.

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.