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I would imagine a lot of the large apparel companies have inhouse designers. Several years ago I worked for a watch company (swatch look-a-like) when the plastc watches with designs were really big, we did the majority of designs in house, they would pay very little to external designers unless they had a big name already (so the watch could sell on the basis of their name). What they would pay a large amount of money to was fashion houses who would prepare mood boards and offer predictions on where fashion was moving and the type of designs and colours we should be producing. I would imagine large t-shirt producers are pretty similar?
 
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