Without melting? No. Not if it's the smooth glossy PVC covered foam floating life jacket. In order to cure the plastisol, you have to get close to or above the melting temperature of PVC.
If it's straight PVC foam, same as the insulated foam "can cooler", then "YES" plastisol works fantastic on them. They have a high temperature tolerance.
For the glossy personal flotation devices (PFD):
Use a "Vinyl Ink" that is made to print on PVC. It is a solvent based air-dry ink, so you'll need to work fast due to drying in the screen.
It's difficult for textile printers to get used to using solvent based air-dry inks because they are so used to inks that never dry.
I recommend several manufacturers of vinyl ink: Serascreen VSI, Cudner & O'Connor VC or SGV, NazDar GV or VF
Call a screen printing distributor near you that specializes in commercial not textile supplies. Try these:
Charles Jessup Inc., NJ
McLogan Supply, CA
Graphic Solutions, TX
You MUST use the correct solvent to clean the screen, otherwise grab a razor blade!
I say a razor blade in jest..... but.... depending on the ink you use and the solvent you need for clean-up and the number of prints.... It might be cheaper to trash a $20 screen rather than spend $40 on a gallon of screenwash cleaner.(minimum size with most suppliers/mfgr's now)
An alternate would be something like Sprayway #957 Screen Opener. That will break down almost any solvent based ink and it makes a good screen and squeegee cleaner.
No matter what you decide, you MUST CLEAN ALL INK FROM THE SCREEN IMMEDIATELY AFTER DONE PRINTING!!! If the ink dries up on the screen, then grab the razor blade for sure
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