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AHHHHHHHHH I've never screen printed anything and need help! I figured I would start with coroplast signs because I know a lot of people who need them and then move onto t-shirts when I expand. Now I am thinking I am crazy!

I've tried using a 230 and 280 mesh aluminum screen on my vastex press and can't get a print to work! I didn't use emulsion, instead I printed out the design on my vinyl plotter and then painted the screen with speedball screen filler. It worked perfectly until I tried to print. I'm using NazDar 7900 black straight out of the can.

I've attached pictures.





 

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it looks to me to be either, not enough off contact, no spray tack or anything to hold the sign down and not enough pressure on the squeegee. it may be all three things.

i see a couple of "spiderwebs" are you using thinner? naz dar re-180 or the retarder type (re-??) is what you need

vinyl works great for about 20 prints, but the ink will eat it up after that.
 

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it looks to me to be either, not enough off contact, no spray tack or anything to hold the sign down and not enough pressure on the squeegee. it may be all three things.
I think it may be the off contact. I'm using a vacuum pallet and pressing down pretty hard on the squeegee.

i see a couple of "spiderwebs" are you using thinner? naz dar re-180 or the retarder type (re-??) is what you need
No thinner. I am going to get some first thing on Monday.

vinyl works great for about 20 prints, but the ink will eat it up after that.
I used straight vinyl for my first try and it didn't last very long. Thats when I decided to use the speedball screen block.

Should I print with the flutes or against?

Henry
 

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Ok coroplast Is way harder than shirts because plastisol doesn't dry in the screen In fact you could come back a year later and the plastisol still wouldn't be dry. Nazdar Ink on the other hand is just solvent based paint. If you have ever painted a house and done the trim with oil based paint then you have experienced what happens when the paint drys on the brush. Nazdar dries even faster. I have done both types of printing many times and my two rules for coroplast are print in low humidity with cooler temps If your shop is airconditioned turn it down as low as you can. Also once you start, don't stop, print as many as you can keeping the ink moving. I also add a little thinner trying to keep a balance between getting a good dark print and getting a nice flowing consistency. Goodluck
 

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From the little that I,ve learned about screen printing on coroplast, the squeege should be a hard one, and the subtrate 3" all round smaller than the screen.
Secondly, depending on the quantity needed if it would be a small number I would vinyl it, if a large number I would cut a stencil and spray paint them. just my thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Buy a vinyl plotter like the rest of us.
I have a plotter. When you need to make a 100 signs it can be a little bit of a pain to do that with vinyl. Thats why I got a screen printer.

I adjusted the off-contact and that seemed to do the trick. I am going to pick up some retarder/thinner tomorrow and see how that goes.

Thanks for all of the help!!

Henry
 

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OK, where do I start? I've been printing coroplast for many years. I don't do it anymore, because not only does it kill brain cells, but well,... it kills brain cells. Here are the critical point of printing coroplast:

1. As you guys have already mentioned, your off contact is critical! You need to have enough to allow the screen to pull away from the mesh as you print, but not too much or you won't be able to get enough pressure.

2. Buy a whole case of screen opener. Screen opener will also kill your brain, but it is absolutely the only way to print with air dry ink. It's better than thinner because you can flood your screen, and lightly spray your ink to loosen it up as you print. It is also great to clean out your screen at the end of the day.

3. Use emulsion, your screen will last longer! Blockout is not tough enough.

4. Don't use tape to fill pinholes. Air dry inks eat through tape adhesive and it will only cause you problems later down the road. Use emulsion.

5. When you burn your screens, make sure that you position your images so that you don't have to move your template.

6. 155 to 195 mesh screens! I have had many suppliers recomend over 250 mesh, and you will fight it just like the guy on this post! Your ink is thin, but not that thin, and you will not have to work so hard if you at least use a 195 mesh. I don't think suppliers have ever really tried to manually print using a 250 mesh screen. 250 works great for automated printing machines, but not so great for us manual guys.

7. One post on this forum recomended using a hard squeegee. DO NOT USE A HARD SQUEEGEE! Use a 60 durometer squeegee which is the softest that I have in the shop.

8. Most of you do not grab your squeegees properly. You need to grab the sqeegee with the center of your palms directly in the corner of the squeegee, with your thumb on the back and your other fingers on the front. This gives you even preassure all across the squeegee blade, which is very critical when printing plastic. If you have a large image that covers almost the entire screen, you may need to grab another person and two man your squeegee.

9. As you pull the sqeegee, watch your mesh you will see when you have missed areas. If you miss an area, do not flood the screen again, just try to dry print it.

10. You only want to print the image once if possible. You print pulling toward yourself, then lift the screen slightly and flood the screen pushing back away from yourself.

11. Always make sure that before you pull the squeegee that you have some ink in front of the sqeegee.

12. Once you start printing, make sure you keep your screen flooded. It will allow you to keep printing for long periods of time. If you need to clean your screen, print a junker and then don't flood the screen.

13. Once you start, don't stop! Give yourself enough time do an entire color all at once. You can do both sides of the sign if you remember where you put your first print and start with it.

14. If your image bleeds a little bit, instead of trying to clean the back of the screen, just take some junkers and print three or four. That will usually take care of the problem, and you won't risk spreading a thin layer of wet ink all over the back of your screen.

15. If your image bleeds severly, and you need to clean the back of the screen, then print the image one more time on a junker, but this time don't flood. Take your screen-opener lightly spray it on the bakc of the screen. Wipe first on the bottom of the screen, then the top, then spray your cotton rag and do the bottom again. You will want to print a junker just to be sure.

16. When printing, watch the ink behind your sqeegee. If you are dragging little streams of ink behind the sqeegee that is bad. Unlike printing textiles (for the most part) this will put more ink in those areas and will show up on your sign. You want to scrape the ink nice and clean. If you are not applying consistent preassure, then you will see a "stuttering" effect both in your screen and in your print. This shows up as light lines in your print.

17. I like to reclaim my screens immediately after finishing a job. This way I know that I am getting all of the ink out of the screen. You absolutely need to clean your squeegee with screen opener and get all of the ink out of everywhere, especially in the corners.

18. Use a chemical mask! Don't kill brain cells.

Let me know if you are having any other problems, or if you have any other questions.
 

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Thanks Matt, very instructive and your advice much appreciated, One more question if I may ask.
Could I thin the ink enough to be able to spray paint it with stencils.
You could try, but you will get much more consistent prints by screen-printing it (if you do it right). If you water down your inks too much, they will lose their opacity, and you also have to worry about the ink running or getting under your stencil.

Out of curiosity, why would you want to spray if you can screen-print them?
 

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It seems to me that doing multiple colors by spraying and stenciling would much more difficult. Also, you can't do consistent halftones by spraying. If you're not doing either of those things, then spraying could be a viable option.

You should definitely use a mask if you are spraying or printing, this stuff is nasty. I worked for a sign shop for about a year and had to drive down a windy canyon road every day to get home. My wife would call me as I was coming home after printing signs, and there were times that she thought I wasn't going to make it. The fumes used to give me bad headaches too.
 

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Hi Matt, I just asked out of curiosity.I realize that screen printing could be more appropriate than spray-painting.
However my line of thought is, no printing of transfers,no exposure problems,no emulsions,no screen size or mesh problems,no clogging of inks,no squeege problems,no degreasing etc. Just my thoughts as a newbie.

As for the pungent fumes,I most definitely agree with you for the use of a good quality mask and an extractor fan.
 
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