High tolerance printing can be achieved with screen printing. But you must fully understand (so you can control) each step of the process.
For instance, if your planning on using vellum for you art output, forget it!.. you must use a Mylar that will not distort the image in the output phase. Laser printers are notable of distorting film outputs (do to the heat), but for most printing purposes the amount of distortion you get is acceptable. I still believe the very best way (although now hard to find) is the camera and film solution when it comes to very tight tolerances. Even inkjet outputs can vary depending on the quality of the equipment.
Next step is the screens and exposure. It is best to use work hardened screens that have been retentioned a time or two (Roller Frames). These will be the most dynamically stable. Brand new screens can tend to "creep" until they are stabilized by the continuous back an forth of the printing action. Screen manufacturing technology has got a lot better over the years and this is less of a problem then it used to be. For the Exposure of the emulsion, you need to have a good light source that is properly calibrated to minimize any undercutting of the emulsion due to over exposure, or any excessive wash out due to under exposure. I've always had the best results when using a capillary film for high tolerance work, this is because the entire stencil surface comes into contact with the substrate at point of ink transfer, so the "knuckles" of the mesh do not create any gaps, capillary film will create good seal to the substrate.
I would highly recommend automated equipment to print it with, so you can accurately control squeegee pressure, and have it remain consistent for the course of your print run. Too much squeegee pressure will cause the image to grow, because it will stretch the image as it pulls, you always want to print with the minimum amount of pressure needed to properly transfer the ink from the stencil to the substrate. Any more than that will distort the image and can cause premature stencil wear.
I've had print orders (non-textile) that had to be measured with calipers, and the end product itself was used as a measuring device. However I can't imagine you needing this type of accuracy on textiles, as they are not stable enough themselves to make a difference.
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