It is vector art that was supplied. Nice crisp positive transparency for exposure. Exposed to a 110 screen.
What mesh count would you use to dissipate the sawtoothing?
Your diagonal lines look marginally "OK".....vertical lines and horizontals that go along the mesh thread are bad news......I would stay with the 110 mesh and thicken your stencil with a couple additional coats of emulsion on the shirt side of your screen...Applied/dried/applied.....Also do a face coat on squeegee side after dried.....This anchors the emulsion to your threads and provides an excellent foundation for those subsequent emulsion coats on the shirt side of your screen.....You want your emulsion to "rise above" your mesh threads on the shirt side of the screen... this is known as EOM-emulsion over mesh....Increase your exposure time.....This will eliminate the saw toothing....It will also provide you a sharp "stopedge" which, when you run your fingers over the dried screen, you can feel on your fingers the sharpness.....Currently it appears that your saw toothing is being caused by emulsion that is too thin at and on your threads.....The additional coats will take your image "off" your thread (which are currently dictating your resolution), and put that image on the emulsion, which should then result in a non sawtoothed print, because the additional thickness is dictating your edge sharpness, rather than the mesh thread.......This is known as mesh bridging....and depending on the solids content of your emulsion; this dictates how thick your dried emulsion will be and also dictates number of coats required to achieve proper mesh bridging......People may be recommending higher mesh counts, because it requires less emulsion to bridge properly because there are more threads per inch to support the emulsion, and less open space between those threads......Downside of that is that the more threads per inch you are working with (less open space between threads) the thinner the threads, which will lay down a thinner layer of ink, which may sacrifice the opacity......unless you want to do several print strokes with higher squeegee pressure and possibly compromise print quality.....but with this design, and your client, I would stick with the 110.....A good quality film positive which is properly and firmly held to the screen during exposure will be able to withstand longer exposure times without light undercutting (even on white mesh)......and with the quality of most emulsions these days, exposure latitude should, especially with longer exposures, not be a problem.....which will allow thorough washout to remove all unexposed emulsion that may be clinging to your image edges.....providing an extremely sharp, high resolution printing image......
