Ryonet IC White ink came off after one Warm Wash!!

This isn't an ink problem it is an application problem. International coatings is a standard ink in the industry and is very well respected. What was your substrate, how did you apply it, how did you cure it (times and temps)? More information will help people give you good advice and insight. I have washed IC (international coatings) in hot before and have never had this sever of result.

I ran it through a 110 mesh screen, but I most likely used too much reducer, and used a Wagner hand held flash dryer. I Have an 18" industrial flash dryer but no outlet for it. I have used the hand held on many runs and different colors and it works well. The white is the only paint that gives me trouble, it cures chalky and flakes off, I have used reducer with the white almost every time because its so thick, and I usually eye out when I mix it. I am hoping that the reducer is the problem. In any case I order Glacier White ink from Atlas and they said it will hold up on hot washes but officially they recommend low washing and drying temps. Is this Paint a Good Choice?

You may have the same problem with this ink using a heat gun to cure, it requires 325* for 60-90 seconds. It's not the reducer, at least it's not if you used curable reducer, it's the same binder that's in the ink minus any pigment, you can print and cure it straight out of the container with no ink added.
White ink is the hardest to cure since it reflects more heat than any other color and is usually a much thicker film build.
Yours is curing chalky since you are over curing the top and the inner is not cured thru completely

At least get your flash dryer working. A heat gun isn't a flash. Or a dryer. It's a time waster and a pi$$-off-your-customer device if you're trying to do anything other than print shirts for your own amusement. Even a real flash dryer isn't the best for an even cure across the design, since the center gets hotter than the edges. And, you've gotta quit calling it "paint". It's ink. Not trying to be harsh on you, 'cause I understand everyone starts somewhere, but if you're gonna sell shirts, and especially a line of shirts, your reputation will go in the crapper right off the bat if you're shipping shirts that are poorly cured. You've also got to have some means of actually measuring the temperature of the ink as it cures. Otherwise, you're just hoping it's cured, or you're burning shirts.

Since its obvious you don't know what you're doing, perhaps you should read the tech sheets that all ink manufacturers make available to printers. You should also use proper equipment that will cure your inks.

If you can't do this, maybe you should think about contracting your jobs out to a shop that DOES know how to properly print shirts. You'll just ruin your reputation if you keep this mess up.

INK curing requires a more consistant than you can generate with a hand held dryer. Picture a heat sensitive 12x12 plate. As you wave and move the heat gun over it you will end up with paths of hotter and colder areas on the plate. Some flashes run on a single household current outlet. They take a while to work, but if yours is not one of these amp/voltage combos, perhaps sell it off and get one that is.

Little conveyors like the Vastex db series are also out there that can run on 1 20amp outlet.

Plastisol is extremely resilient if cured correctly. We wash test every time we run into a different fabric or weight garment we don't have listed on the side of our oven or flash. If you're selling these, ya gotta fix the equipment problem.

It can be done with a hand held but it is not easy by any stretch. Good luck and upgrade to a flash drier as soon as you can and then set your sights on a small conveyor as you progress.