[NRM]

I'm not able to get clean lines while washing out my emulsion. The lines in the center of design is washing out clean, but the outer areas aren't washing out well at all. I'm going to just list my preparation steps and see if you guys can find something that I'm doing wrong...

1. I coat 230 screens with this emulsion sheet in a fairly dark room by spraying water and pulling with my squeegee to cover dry spots. (My basement is fairly dark with all windows blocked.)

2. I allow the screen to dry for 3+ hours in a pitch black closet with a fan on high.

3. I print my design on a transparent film using a regular printer, using the transparency sheet setting.

4. I remove the transfer film from the emulsion sheet after lining up my transparency on my exposure unit, all in the dark.

4. I then expose my screen for 90 seconds using
this unit. Before I expose, I put a foam pad in the ink side of the screen and place two 10 pounds weights on the foam.

5. I then wash my screen out using my house and a regular garden nozzle (on the "flat" setting) in my garage. (Not completely dark, I need to see what I'm washing out. Lights are off with the door cracked open.)

If anyone can help me find the problem, that would be fantastic! I'm sick of wasting my money and time with trial and error. Thanks!

 

[NRM]

Does anyone have an idea of what could be causing my rough edges?

 

[candimantint]

What program are you using to create your artwork. Sometimes i get rough edges when there are in cmyk black instead of rgb black. It just doesnt get dark enough and leaves a soft edge.

 

[selanac]

It could be that your outer edges of the film aren't making a good contact to the glass. Maybe put a 3rd weight or another piece of foam on top of the inside (ink side) piece of form. Then put your weights on top of that. I'd still use a 3rd weight, maybe even a forth.

Some people have created a vacuum piece to apply more pressure using a Vacuum bag like the ones for storing clothes.

Don't forget a dark cloth over the form and exposure unit so no extra lite gets in.

 

[NRM]

What program are you using to create your artwork. Sometimes i get rough edges when there are in cmyk black instead of rgb black. It just doesnt get dark enough and leaves a soft edge.

I design everything in photoshop/illustrator. My transparencies are turning out solid, though. I don't think that's the problem.

It could be that your outer edges of the film aren't making a good contact to the glass. Maybe put a 3rd weight or another piece of foam on top of the inside (ink side) piece of form. Then put your weights on top of that. I'd still use a 3rd weight, maybe even a forth.

Some people have created a vacuum piece to apply more pressure using a Vacuum bag like the ones for storing clothes.

Don't forget a dark cloth over the form and exposure unit so no extra lite gets in.

I'll try that! Thanks bud, much appreciated.

 

[mimic]

if the middle is fine and outer edges are bad it could be that you are too close to your light source.

 

[NRM]

if the middle is fine and outer edges are bad it could be that you are too close to your light source.

If you look in my original post, I am laying my screen on top of a lightbox from Ryonet. I'm assuming that my distance is sufficient.

 

[selanac]

That is correct NRM, however just incase you might want to check your manual to see if they have dimensions listed.

I'm sure the case is the Film isn't making good contact. Did you clean the glass too? I buy a really good glass cleaner at Home Depot. It's made by Spray Way I believe, and it's foam. Wonder if you could just tape the film down with scotch (transparent) tape.

 

[Frienzy]

2. I allow the screen to dry for 3+ hours in a pitch black closet with a fan on high.

You dont want to heat up the stencil more than 30-50(Celsius), because heat "exposes" emulsion too.

If it's 50 micron capillary film it could take a time to wash out just keep washing out and see if exposed areas holds up together until you get all out from the edges.

Also check your positive - you want to put the film with black coating in direct contact with emulsion. Check if you aren't printing film out on wrong side.
Also your films could be not black enough, then you could try using toner spray on that.

Hope this helps.

 

[NRM]

2. I allow the screen to dry for 3+ hours in a pitch black closet with a fan on high.

You dont want to heat up the stencil more than 30-50(Celsius), because heat "exposes" emulsion too.

If it's 50 micron capillary film it could take a time to wash out just keep washing out and see if exposed areas holds up together until you get all out from the edges.

Also check your positive - you want to put the film with black coating in direct contact with emulsion. Check if you aren't printing film out on wrong side.
Also your films could be not black enough, then you could try using toner spray on that.

Hope this helps.

I'm printing the transparencies out on the stickier of the two sides, which is the side that I'm supposed to print on. I'll try spray toner though, thanks!

 

[selanac]

Andy, are you using Water Proof Film? Many screen printing suppliers are now marking the film so you know what side to print on.

Are you talking about printing your artwork on the Film/Transparency or placing the film on your screen? The film should be upside down on the t-shirt side of the screen.

 

[NRM]

I started drying my screens for longer, taping my film to the light box, adding 30 pounds of weights (vs. 20), cut my foam pad to fit inside the screen, and started exposing for 90 seconds. Perfect screens now! Thanks to all of you!

 

[aspliz]

Emulsion side of film should always be up, in contact with screen. I'm not familiar with the light box you have but bulbs get weak, it may be ready for a change.
If the inside of the screen is good, it really does sounds like a light spread problem and/or a film to screen contact problem on the edges. Old emulsion can give you fits also.

 

[selanac]

Liz, he figured it out. You both may have been typing at the same time.

What do you mean by Emulsion side of film. Do you only coat your screens on one side?

He has a portable light box type of exposure unit. Lights are inside with glass about 6 inches above that. You put the film on the glass, place the screen t-shirt side down (t-shirt side is the side that will touch the t-shirt once on the press), place Foam Padding inside the Ink side of the screen. Cover with a dark fabric, and expose.

 

[ScreenFoo]

I'm not able to get clean lines while washing out my emulsion. The lines in the center of design is washing out clean, but the outer areas aren't washing out well at all. I'm going to just list my preparation steps and see if you guys can find something that I'm doing wrong...

1. I coat 230 screens with this emulsion sheet in a fairly dark room by spraying water and pulling with my squeegee to cover dry spots. (My basement is fairly dark with all windows blocked.)

2. I allow the screen to dry for 3+ hours in a pitch black closet with a fan on high.

3. I print my design on a transparent film using a regular printer, using the transparency sheet setting.

4. I remove the transfer film from the emulsion sheet after lining up my transparency on my exposure unit, all in the dark.

4. I then expose my screen for 90 seconds using
this unit. Before I expose, I put a foam pad in the ink side of the screen and place two 10 pounds weights on the foam.

5. I then wash my screen out using my house and a regular garden nozzle (on the "flat" setting) in my garage. (Not completely dark, I need to see what I'm washing out. Lights are off with the door cracked open.)

If anyone can help me find the problem, that would be fantastic! I'm sick of wasting my money and time with trial and error. Thanks!

Paul: Cap film. Although I've seen cap film listed as "emulsion sheets", even on supplier websites, it is really a misnomer, as emulsion is a liquid--a stable colloidal suspension.
When emulsion is dry, or cap film is applied, it's called a stencil.

 

[aspliz]

Liz, he figured it out. You both may have been typing at the same time.

What do you mean by Emulsion side of film. Do you only coat your screens on one side?

He has a portable light box type of exposure unit. Lights are inside with glass about 6 inches above that. You put the film on the glass, place the screen t-shirt side down (t-shirt side is the side that will touch the t-shirt once on the press), place Foam Padding inside the Ink side of the screen. Cover with a dark fabric, and expose.

Sorry, I was an offset printer before I started screenprinting so most probably don't understand.
the emulsion side of the film I spoke of is the film positive,
not the screen, and yes I coat both sides of my screens.
The emulsion side of the film positive should be touching the t-shirt side of the screen (emulsion to emulsion) for the cleanest results and film positives are blacker than black for a really clean image. I actually use translucency in a laser printer now but I print reversed and burn toner to emulsion.
I guess old habits die hard, sorry for confusing ya'll.

 

[selanac]

No problem, glad you cleared it up.