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Roller Frame Advice

1694 Views 3 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  sben763
I'm thinking of moving from alluminum frames to newman rollers. I am tired of my alluminum frames loosing tension after a while. After my research into newman rollers here are the questions I can't answer:

3 rollers vs 4? : I've got a manual press with side clamps should I try for 4 rollers or are the 3 roller 1 bar versions ok?

Warping: How difficult is it to prevent the screen from twisting?

Retensioning: it seems that it would be difficult to make sure there is even tension in both directions, do you just get good at it?

Tools: Do i need special tools or just generic wrenches at the right sizes?

I've looked into the Shur-Loc frames but I can't get over the fact that the mesh for those screens is more expensive than a stretched alluminum frame.

Thank you,
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"I am tired of my alluminum frames loosing tension after a while."

If you are using a quality aluminum frame. One that is made with at least a 1.6mm or higher wall, it isn't the frame. It is the mesh that is loosing tension and the frame can be remeshed. I would purchase a Newton meter and track the amount loss each time you use them. Some mesh hold longer then others. Depends on quality of mesh and how they were stretched. If you feel like you are not getting the life you want from your static frames contact the people you bought them from and explain your concern and see what they say.
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Here's the place I mentioned where I get my statics (which I originally found from recommendations on this forum). They have separate listings/pricing for "Free Shipping" and paid shipping. Last I checked, the paid shipping worked out better to Portland.

Gold-Up USA
There is no comparison a Newman to a static. The best mesh on a static will loose tension and the hotter your shop is the worse it gets. 20-25n is about the best a static will hold. Although I’ve seen some higher, Spor color supply using high strength glue and the permanent block makes them last a lot longer, golduphas screens that are better then most.

I use Newman roller mesh at 40n all the way up to 272 mesh. At 300 back off to 30-35n. You be lucky to get a 305 at 20-22n and when it settles 12-15n I've used rollers for for 11 of my 12 years of printing. Off contact needed is reduced, you can print much faster and registration holds because there is almost no screen skew and less squeegee pressure is needed.

It’s best to have a stretching table but can be done by hand. There is a manual stretching table (Sherlock) and auto stretching table (Newman). I did by hand for 1-2 years, got a shurloc for a year then found a older Newman LX table for under $500 shipped. Bought torque wrench and a open end wrench from Harbor Freight in place of the over priced specific tools.

There is “S” mesh statics that can be used even at low tension but problem is it’s very delicate. I tried “S” mesh in the Newman frames with same results although the mesh protector tape did help
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