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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am having issues curing the kodak inks with the resolute / kodak pre treat. Anybody else had issues? The ink feels soft and will scrape off with a thumbnail, which is rather frustrating. They also crack after the first wash.


273111
 

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We are very happy with the Kodacolor pretreatments and ink. Have you tested the real heat of your heat press and are you using the recommended press timings?

Side note: I have found that hovering the heat press over wet pretreat and printed images makes a noticeable difference to the end product.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Are Resolute machines good to work with?
I don't know enough about them to really know, but they are capable of some great prints. Better off people who know what they are doing working on them. They seem easy to use anyway. This is my first dtg machine so I am learning the ropes, and there is a lot to take in.
 

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I haven't started with DTG (yet) but will be soon.
I know that if you are doing enough volume, then you are best off with a tunnel dryer to cure the ink, especially if you are using a white base.
Otherwise as NAZCO says, hovering first before pressing is best.
I've been taking in a lot from the F2100 forum on Facebook.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I haven't started with DTG (yet) but will be soon.
I know that if you are doing enough volume, then you are best off with a tunnel dryer to cure the ink, especially if you are using a white base.
Otherwise as NAZCO says, hovering first before pressing is best.
I've been taking in a lot from the F2100 forum on Facebook.
I'm really not doing volume atm.......I've been using plastisol transfers for a while, so I can just press in a couple of minutes and job done as orders come in. Very easy, clean, no fuss, and they last. I've got used to the sheer simplicity of that. Only issue with them is, I cant do custom / 1 off stuff as I am limited to which transfers I have bought in bulk., this is why I bought a dtg setup. Feel a bit fed up of it at the moment, as I think I have ruined the machine at every moment. Having issues with the process too, inks cracking, too much pre treat or not enough pre treat. God knows. Shrug.

Transfers are a different league. No stress.

Swings and roundabouts.

DTG requires work to keep the machine alive, as I sort of knew before, but perhaps not to this extent. Be aware of that.
 

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I've been looking at the F2100, but am put off by the price of the ink and that it comes in cartridges. There are loads of users though so there is much help available.
I've also been looking at the R-jet Pro. This apparently needs less maintenance than the F2100 and inks are cheaper, but you don't get the free pre-treat machine included.

I've been using transfers (JPSS) but these aren't really good enough for the consumer.
I've been using PoD for DTG stuff but lead times are too high.

Most of the designs I sell are CMYK only, so if only someone would make a CMYK machine which costs a couple of thousand.
We'd be talking about what is basically a desktop printer with a platen system.

My A3+ pigment printer I use for transfers cost £150, and yet I'm supposed to believe that adding a platen system adds an extra £14000 to the price. Hmmmm..........

There are loads of people using PoD who would buy a DTG machine if only they were cheaper.

Anyway, it's my understanding that 95% of print problems are with the pre-treat, so you'll need to "dial in the settings" as they say.
Bear in mind that if you are using a heat press, then the platen temperature will be cool or just warm, so you'll need to increase the pressing time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've been looking at the F2100, but am put off by the price of the ink and that it comes in cartridges. There are loads of users though so there is much help available.
I've also been looking at the R-jet Pro. This apparently needs less maintenance than the F2100 and inks are cheaper, but you don't get the free pre-treat machine included.

I've been using transfers (JPSS) but these aren't really good enough for the consumer.
I've been using PoD for DTG stuff but lead times are too high.

Most of the designs I sell are CMYK only, so if only someone would make a CMYK machine which costs a couple of thousand.
We'd be talking about what is basically a desktop printer with a platen system.

My A3+ pigment printer I use for transfers cost £150, and yet I'm supposed to believe that adding a platen system adds an extra £14000 to the price. Hmmmm..........

There are loads of people using PoD who would buy a DTG machine if only they were cheaper.

Anyway, it's my understanding that 95% of print problems are with the pre-treat, so you'll need to "dial in the settings" as they say.
Bear in mind that if you are using a heat press, then the platen temperature will be cool or just warm, so you'll need to increase the pressing time.
I also looked at the f1200..I was told the ink supply gubbins can give issues..there's always a lot of them forsale on ebay, maybe that is why. Maybe not. As I said, I don't really know. I looked at the resolute having searched around and seen the quality of prints they can put out, so got one of them.

I think you can get refillable carts for the f2100s.
 

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I also looked at the f1200..I was told the ink supply gubbins can give issues..there's always a lot of them forsale on ebay, maybe that is why. Maybe not. As I said, I don't really know. I looked at the resolute having searched around and seen the quality of prints they can put out, so got one of them.

I think you can get refillable carts for the f2100s.
The F2100 is a good machine and loads have been sold, so you get a fair few for sale. Their users sometimes upgrade to the F3000 which is basically an F2100 upgraded for industrial use, with user-replaceable heads and a bulk ink system.
Sometimes people sell them because they didn't understand how much hassle the machines can be to run - you can't just run away for a week's holiday without going through maintenance steps beforehand and even then, you might come back to a clogged head.

You can get refillable carts but these are for 3rd party inks. You can't buy the bulk ink that the F3000 uses unless you own an F3000. Epson wants its F2100 owners to keep on paying through the nose for carts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The F2100 is a good machine and loads have been sold, so you get a fair few for sale. Their users sometimes upgrade to the F3000 which is basically an F2100 upgraded for industrial use, with user-replaceable heads and a bulk ink system.
Sometimes people sell them because they didn't understand how much hassle the machines can be to run - you can't just run away for a week's holiday without going through maintenance steps beforehand and even then, you might come back to a clogged head.

You can get refillable carts but these are for 3rd party inks. You can't buy the bulk ink that the F3000 uses unless you own an F3000. Epson wants its F2100 owners to keep on paying through the nose for carts.
Hmm..like Brother..my cousin has 2 and the inks extortionate.

Yeah, you are tied to them in a way. Why you cant flush a head out and it be fine for a few weeks is rather silly isn't it.
 

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Hmm..like Brother..my cousin has 2 and the inks extortionate.

Yeah, you are tied to them in a way. Why you cant flush a head out and it be fine for a few weeks is rather silly isn't it.
Brother are really bad for ink. Not a good option imo for profit per shirt.

Recently I hadn't used my pigment printer for about three weeks and all the channels were blocked to some degree but it's only CMYK so a couple of head cleans resurrected it without a problem.
It's the white channels in DTG heads which are the issue - they don't like all that titanium dioxide sitting there without moving around :)

Speaking to F2100 users - those who are good with maintenance don't get problems. Those who are lazy, do.
 
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