I'd guess that the off-contact is not the same on all the pallets, and there are some inconsistencies in how parallel the screen is to the platen. If the screen arms are less than parallel to the platen, the arm is effectively shortened. Differences in the off-contact settings can then cause the image to vary from platen to platen.
I'd also check that the screens are parallel to the platen front to back and left to right. Differences here will be magnified by differences in off-contact settings.
Here's how I dial a manual press in:
1. Ensure that the platens are parallel to the ground. If not, adjust the legs until all platens are parallel to the ground.
2. Lower the screen arms into position and using a level, adjust the off-contact until the screen arm is parallel to the ground (and thus, the shirt platen).
3. Adjust the screen cant (front to back angle) until it is parallel to the platen. Don't worry about the off contact at this point. I use a frame with no screen in it so that there's no interference if the screen is at this point lower than the platen.
4. Loosen the screen clamp from the screen arm. It should be possible to adjust the height of the screen clamp. Raise the head so it has about 3/16" clearance from the platen, and use the level to make sure it's parallel to the platen side to side and front to back.
5. Loosen the nylon interference bolts that center the clamp all the way until the tips are flush with the inside of the U-bracket. Make a mark on one bolt face so you can easily count how many times you turn each one. Turn the bolts in one rotation at a time, equally, until they're snug on the arm. This will center the arm in between the interference bolts.
Now you should have heads that are all parallel to the platen, and screen arms that are ideally located for printing with a 1/8" off contact (when there's a shirt loaded).